We visited Ravenna in 2011, on our last Italian campaign. It was one of our very best visits then, or ever, and it was again in 2013. Simply put: if you care about Western history, art, architecture, or religion, and the intersections among them, Ravenna is a must-see. The transitions from
Roman to
Byzantine to
European occurred in many places. But many of those transitions occurred
in Ravenna--the capital of Italy under the Goths, after Rome fell, and under Byzantine rule for the next few centuries as well--and they are best preserved, if preserved at all, in Ravenna. Said another way: Classical art ends in Ravenna, and Medieval art begins there too. Think: mosaics, the best in the West until Montreale and Palermo in 12th century Sicily. Also think: San Vitale, model for the Hagia Sofia as well as for Charlemagne's chapel, later, the Cathedral of Aachen. Were that all not enough, it is a very enlightened and tourist-friendly town. Oh yes, there's all the Dante stuff too. After exile from Florence, he lived out his years in Ravenna. I blogged about Ravenna in 2011, at
http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/ravenna-mosaics-i.html, and at
http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/ravenna-mosaics-ii.html, and at
http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/ravenna-non-mosaic-bits.html, so if you want to see what I am talking about, take a look at those posts. For 2013, I'll just fill in a few gaps--which won't make much sense unless you've looked at the 2011 posts, or know Ravenna--and add the two or three new things we did during our couple of days there. It's a glorious place. We'll be back.
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The Mausoleo di Teodorico, erected by
Theordic in 520, is built of huge stones
without mortar; the ceiling is a single monolith
weighing 300 tons |
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Inside is only a huge porphyry basin, apparently a
sarcophagus |
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In the Basilica di San Vitale...one of those
seminal works of architecture...legend has
it Charlegmagne carried away much of the
marble facing for use in his chapel in Aachen;
he and his aesthetic advisors were visiting
after his being crowned Holy Roman Emperor,
c. 800 |
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According to the Ravenna TI guidebook, Cole Porter got
his inspiration for Night and Day while looking at the ceiling
of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna; I submit he
got his inspiration for Anything Goes while watching old
Monty Python re-runs ("Anything goes in/ Anything goes
out/ Fish, bananas, old pyjamas/ Mutton! Beef! and Trout!);
or possibly Paul Feyerabend |
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At yet another very old church, whose name now eludes me,
the crypt...the water table in Ravenna has risen a meter or so
in the last several centuries, and so it is now flooded; look
closely, a tad below center, and you'll see a goldfish |
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In the Museo Arcivescovile (Bishop's Palace),
the 7th century bishop's throne I had not
photographed on our previous visit ("no fotos!") |
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Quite recently--new construction--major new Roman mosaics
were found and now have been put together and exhibited
as the House of Stone Carpets, Domus dei Tappeti di Pietra;
here, a dance of the seasons |
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Thus, beautiful, nearly complete mosaic floors |
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And thus, the Good Shepherd |
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Wider view |
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As we were walking to one of Ravenna's many wonderful
sostas, where we had parked, we passed the State Institute
for Mosaic Art |
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And in its yard, a fine replica of Jerusalem from San Vitale |
2 comments:
Another for the bucket list.
Me too! Ravenna is definitely on my list.
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