According to our guidebooks, Modena's cathedral, completed in 1099, is the finest of Italy's Romanesque cathedrals. Apart from its age, it seemed fairly unremarkable, except for one item of sculpture.
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West facade |
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South (starboard) side |
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Extra south-side portal for VIPs |
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Looking up the great campanile, the Ghirlandia |
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On the west facade, possibly not a Last Judgment; possibly someone had been
to Siam? |
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Some good Old Testament reliefs |
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Cain bonks Abel, etc. |
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Knave view |
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Elevation: alternating piers and columns, triforia,
clerestory, and then...4-part Gothic vaulting...
it was indeed an age of transition, and the
Church was a hugely international organization |
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The crypt was very interesting and accessible; almost
Moorish-looking |
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Thus, with tomb of St. Enzo on the right |
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View of rood screen from altar; the white band across the
screen is actually the Last Supper tablecloth! So it said |
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Back outside; the little arched recesses all around the church are entirely exposed
brick now; except for these two, showing earlier plaster and paint |
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North door frame sculpture...the months and their labors...pretty
standard |
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North door, archivolt: the Porta della Pescheria; this is the first known stone
representation of Arthurian legend; scholars appear to agree on a date in the
early 12th century; not only are there relevant scenes from the legends, the
various characters are given their Breton names: Artus de Bretania, Winlogee
(Guinevere), Galvagin (Gawain), et al.; it's not unusual to see something
completely secular on a church; but it's a long way to Tipperary, I mean,
Tintagel |
2 comments:
I am never as pleased with Italian churches as I am with French ones. Maybe it is the fact that I usually have to pay to enter Italian churches, and then pay to have the lights turned on so I can see what I have already paid to see.
Yes, the state-supported cathedrals in France are nice and filled with light. Don't go to the UK. Few of their important cathedrals are free, and some are quite pricey. I don't mind having to turn the lights on in
Italy; having them on constantly would damage the artwork.
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