Wednesday, June 17, 2026

Sissinghurst, 2026

The drive from Chester to Kent, via Ludlow, was about as expected...3-4 hours on an assortment of A, B, and M roads, fluide, as the French say, then nearly 2 hours to go 40 miles on the M25. Eventually we got to the B&B Vicki had rented in the hamlet of Marden and settled in for a few more days of homes and gardens, and decompression, before venturing on--M25 again--to Heathrow to return the rental car, and then on into London and the flat we had rented in Pimlico. 

First up on the tour was Sissinghurst Castle, a favorite we had visited at least 5 times before. Back in the days when we had a camper in Europe, 2009-2019, Sissinghurst was often our first stop in Britain after getting off the boat in Dover. Never more than a castle-in-jest...Sissinghurst was really just the ruin of a Tudor hunting lodge that Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicholson bought and rebuilt and then added to a great "roomed" garden that is one of Britain's best known. Just enter "Sissinghurst" in the search box for scores of flowery pix from our previous visits and more than a little information about their, um, interesting marriage. Sissinghurst was just about at prime bloom this visit, and much to our enjoyment, the National Trust had just opened the Delos garden room, finally realizing a plan the couple had had for the garden 90 years ago. An added treat for a favorite place.

Our B&B was in Marden, a quiet and out of the way
hamlet, still close enough to the major houses and gardens
we wanted to revisit in Kent

Everywhere in Kent you see oast houses...barns with these strange-
looking chimney-type things...they're for the kiln-drying of hops, 
a big regional product back when Kent was the major supplier
of ingredients for London's beer industry...

Rare dorsal view of an oast; on the Sissinghurst estate

Head gardener's display and notes

We'd seen the buildings and rooms before and were there this time pretty
much just for the flowers

Now in the new Delos garden...either we missed the signage or there
was none; we knew it was new but thought of it as a rock garden; I
guess that would be Mediterranean too

More of same; personally, I am a bit skeptical; I tried doing a Japanese
garden in Dallas for some years; many plants suffered, many plants died;
an Aegean garden in Kent is a similar stretch, but who knows...it would
not be the National Trust's first miracle...

Now in the white room, Vita's specialty; the twin Tudor hunting
lodge towers in the background



Lots of white

Oh no! A poppy has snuck into the white room!

Still more white

Ditto


Moving right along



Water feature

Mulsanne Straight...Harold loved straight lines, 90ยบ angles;
Vita didn't; didn't even want to see soil in her garden







Part of Vita's blue glass collection

Portrait of Vita in the main library



Tuesday, June 16, 2026

St. Laurence Parish Church, Ludlow

We might have missed it, tucked in amid all the other Medieval buildings, but the parish church was for us the best feature of Ludlow, a five-banger in Simon Jenkins' England's Thousand Best Churches, said by some to be the third largest of all England's parish churches. Construction of the current building began in the late 12th century with modifications in the 14th and 19th centuries. It has been beautifully maintained and is certainly one of the finest "Wool Churches" we have seen. 


West window

Nave

Ceiling

Elevation

A first for us...a fully self-contained toilet and washroom,
plopped down right in the northwest corner of the nave (next 
to the coffee shop, tables and chairs)...one is seeing restrooms 
installed in cathedrals here and there, but, for us, this is a parish 
church first...



Adjacent also to the social area...churches in the UK are
increasingly returning to their community function, which
is fine...

Old organ, refurbished in the 19th and 20th centuries



Now admiring the window in the Lady Hall...interestingly,
a Jesse "tree"

So it's bad enough you have to spend the rest of eternity doing a plank...

You have to do it in the store room?!

Crossing

Altar and great east window...about St. Laurence, 
a rich guy who got grilled, literally, for advocating the
cause of the poor, in 3rd century Rome



Among the tombs, memorials

More windows

The misericords in Ludlow are fewer in number than a cathedral's,
but of no less interest...some even more rowdy than what we saw in
Chester

Wrestling match?

Mermaid

Tap woman

"When are they going to invent elastic?"

North choir stall

Chancel ceiling

Abaft the beam

Very rarely seen...this is the old carillon-playing machine...sort of like a
player-piano, only heavy-jumbo to ring the big bells

And oldish radiators