One of the sights in Parma that attracted us was the cathedral, the
duomo, which was consecrated in 1106. Much within it is newer, merely Renaissance, etc., but still of great interest.
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Lombard Romanesque, the tower under scaffolding |
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Of equal interest is the Baptistry, same age, same beautiful pink
Verona marble |
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One of the Baptistry doors |
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Detail, sort of a Judgment... |
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Tree of Jesse |
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It has been some time since we were in an Italian cathedral; they're darker, of
course, lacking the great windows of the north; and the great height; but every
square inch is painted or otherwise decorated, sometimes gloriously; not a bad
trade-off |
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Even the ceiling...which in this case looks like standard
four-part Gothic vaulting...painted |
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Fortunately, there is often a Divine Illumination Machine;
we have learned now to be patient and let someone else pay
the two euros... although this deprives me of the opportunity
to stage-whisper "Let there be light"; also any side
benefices or indulgences |
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Apse area with its great domes |
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Antelemi's Deposition relief; same guy who designed the Baptistry |
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The central dome, Antonio Corregio's Assumption of the Virgin |
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Closer up: one of the first great swirlers... |
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Closer still...that's Mary at about 7 o'clock, bare-breasted; you'll
have to guess who is there in the center, with clean feet (I can
never look at these things without thinking of The Assumption of
Gala and Salvador into Heaven at Figueres) (hint: don't look up
His drawers) |
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Alas, the only conspicuous stained glass in the place actually ruins what might
have been a great Mannerist Maesta (inside west wall) |
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Gated side chapel |
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Elevation; dark; but color everywhere |
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Exterior, high up on the bow |
3 comments:
I have never understood the separate and elaborate baptistries.
House Rules: can't go into Holy House if you're unwashed.
But that is not the case in France nor England. I guess that those Italians are just dirtier than the rest of the world...or maybe more sinful!
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