Traversing Trastavere

On Sunday we did Trastavere, partly for the ambiance, partly to see some of the great churches there. We had visited in 2011, under less deliberate circumstances, and wanted to spend more time in one of Rome's older neighborhoods.

After a long bus ride, 702 to 766 or somesuch, we got off in
Trastevere at the sight of a huge brocante market, one of the
largest we have ever seen; we only did a few blocks of it,
being overwhelmed and late for lunch

Frame store

Went on for blocks and blocks, two, sometimes three aisles,
off-shoots into side streets

Some clothing but mostly collectibles

Ambiance

We ate at a place call Otello, where the roasted artichoke was
a revelation

But the saltimbocca and Chef Boyardee slop were not

Contemporary ambiance

On a random alley

More ambiance

Antiquity never very far

A contemporary water feature facing the little church

Mostly, ambiance means gelato; here, a newer chain, but
with very high quality and matchless variety and innovation
in flavors

Arch at the back of the store

More antiquity

And the Tiber meandering through the city; we took another bus
up the hill to Circo Massimo and the metro from there back
home