Le Train Bleu

Heritage dining. That's the name for our current restaurant interests in Paris. Great old restaurants of the past, traditional fare. Le Train Bleu has long been on our wish list. We both were sick on our 56th wedding anniversary, June 8th, but a few weeks later, several fine meals later, we both were well enough to entertain a big meal at one of Paris' most storied restaurants, Le Train Bleu, in the Gare de Lyon, 12th arrondisement.

The restaurant itself dates from 1900, the year of the great Exposition Universelle, and more than two dozen artists of the day contributed to its decor. All forgotten, I would add: not the Guimards nor Muchas nor Rodins nor Laliques; nor anybody that made it to the Musee d'Orsay. Be that as it may, the place is still stunningly beautiful, in its neo-classical-whatever-revival sort of way. Chandeliers, sculpture, moulding, furniture, and many very large format paintings on the walls and ceilings, all glorifying the great Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean train line of the day--le Train Bleu, it was called--and its destinations...Lyon, Nice, Monaco, Menton.... The place was saved from demolition in the 60s by France's great minister of the interior, Andre Malraux, and declared a historic site somewhat later.

The food is traditional, although much updated and up-graded with two-star chef Michel Rostand now overseeing it all. The real treat, we thought, was people-watching, both the clientele but especially the serveurs and serveuses: a good bit of the food preparation is done table-side. The pix below reflect this wonderful three-ring circus: the decor, the food, the service. Another of our more memorable anniversary dinners! 

Vicki's kir royale (my pastis not pictured)

The amuse bouche, a beet puree with cheese and nuts

Carving leg of lamb

Her salade

My pate en crote provencale

And une verre de Morgon, por favor...

For possibly the first time in recorded history, we both had the same
main, the pork medallions...the three course prix fixe meal was €74,
tax and tip included

Preparing a boeuf tartare

Having a look around

Part of the adjoining lounge; if you're not into a full, fine meal, you
can pop in here for something light, a drink, a snack, and still get to
see the place

Pistachio souffle

My baba rhum; incredibly, they left the bottle of rum at the table...in the
future, I have resolved, I will always carry a shot glass in my jacket

The flames from the crepes suzette were perhaps five feet high

Official anniversary portrait