Our next home and garden was Dyrham Park, up very close to the Bristol Channel. There is a great house, 17th century and later, and a large deer park. We chose to walk the deer park first, then do the garden tour, then tour the house. We were in for a surprise.
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In the deer park, Hinton Hill, an iron age hill fort, now a bovine stronghold; in
577, seriously, the culminating battle between the Britons and the Anglo/Saxons
was fought near here: the Battle of Dyrham: Cuthwine and Ceawlin slew three
Briton kings, Coinmail, Condidan, and Farinmail and took the cities of
Gloucester, Cirecester, and Bath; sadly, I can never hear nor read the word
"Briton" without remembering... "'Ooare the Britons?" "Well we all are! We are
all Britons. And I amyour king" "I didn't know we had a king! I thought we were
an autonomous collective" "You're fooling yourself! We're living in a dictatorship!
A self-perpetuating autocracy in which the working classes--" "There you go,
bringing class into it again" ... sadly |
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In the deer park, a menage a trois of deer |
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A deer nursery |
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Looking down to the house; we have already walked downhill a good bit; this
house is in a hole! |
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And at the top of the hill, a statue of Neptune; what is going
on here? |
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It wasn't until the garden tour that we discovered what was going on...Dyrham
was most importantly the property of one William Blathwayt, a businessman
and civil servant who happened to be fluent in Dutch at just the right time, the
arrival of William and Mary; Blathwayt served as the king's secretary of state
for a decade and was by that time wealthy enough to build himself a country
estate with a Dutch water garden (think Versailles, smaller scale); ponds and
watercourses and falls and fountains; all this needed a water source higher than
the house and garden, and thus the house was in a hole; alas, within a century--
fashions and fortunes change--his descendants had plowed the whole thing up
and covered it over with more deer park (the map above is the only
representation of the original estate's gardens) |
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This rectangular pond is about all that remains of the original water park |
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But slowly, the Trust is restoring its beauty |
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Thus |
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Very slowly, very carefully; this is what a parterre looks like without the flowers
(taken out for some repairs on the house) |
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Our day at Dyrham ended in the parking lot, noticing a camper with Washington
state licence plates: and we later met David and Lou, doing pretty much the same
things we are doing... |
1 comment:
That is a magnificent house! What fun to meet other Americans doing the same thing!
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