It rained all day Monday, and rain was forecast for most of the rest of the week in the Bay of Naples. Although our original intention was to go no further south than Paestrum, we change our plans, especially upon hearing from a Brit couple at Camping Spartacus about how nice Sicily is. ("They'll make you an offer you can't refuse"). So we pulled up stakes Tuesday morning and headed south, getting to within a hundred kilometers of Reggio Calabria (southwest end of the peninsula; toe of the boot) by dark, parking in a busy service area. The drive was unpleasant...freeway, mostly through the mountains, more all day rain and wintry mix, trucks and more trucks, never-ending construction on the never-ending procession of bridges and tunnels, bridges and tunnels. The A3 will be a great road when they finish it.
The next morning was clear and bright, and we got into Reggio by 9:30 or so, found excellent parking in a park on the Straits, and headed for the Museum of Magna Graeca, which houses the famous Bronzes of Riace. After learning it was closed for renovation, we headed for the School of Restoration (I was hoping it would be a restaurant school) where we were told the Bronzi now temporarily reside. In the course of all this we walked much of downtown Reggio, which we thought very nice, if tiring.
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Salerno; where thousands of Americans died in the 1943 invasion |
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Swordfish sale in Reggio: 1/2 off (nyuk, nyuk, nyuk) |
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The Bronzi were found by a diver off the shore at Riace, not far from Reggio, in 1972, and were hailed immediately as one of the greatest underwater finds yet: two nearly perfectly- preserved bronze warriors, life-size or more, mid-5th century BCE Greek; the Greeks did most of their sculpture in Bronze, very few remain, and most of what is known of Greek sculpture comes from Roman copies in marble |
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This is what they look like (off the web) |
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But when we entered the School of Restoration, they were off in what looked like an intensive care ward, glassed off from the rest of the exhibits, with a variety of technicians in lab coats ministering to them (removing interior clay mold material); interestingly, much the apparatus used in preserving them is from surgery wards |
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Up-close of Warrior B; I wish I had more and better pix, but they had a no pix policy for the Bronzi and half a dozen guides and security folk enforcing it |
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Elsewhere in the (temporary) exhibit from the Museum, some nice small reliefs |
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And this wonderful 3rd century mosaic of dragons |
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The School of Restoration |
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Beautiful old banyan trees line the boulevard/boardwalk along the Straits, facing Sicily |
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Sayonara, mainland; we are off in another ferry for the 20 minute ride to Messina |
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