Although Ortigia is nice enough in itself, our real goal was to see its Duomo, a Baroque cathedral built right on top of and unabashedly incorporating the foundations and columns of a 5th century BCE Doric Temple of Athena. It was pretty incredible.
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North side of the building, note the inset Doric column, then
note the 10 or 12 more capitals along the top of the stone
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Entrance and facade; pretty Baroque
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Column hugger; inside, the massive 2500
year old columns are pretty conspicuous and
are still holding the thing up; one sees
religious buildings built over others all over
the more contested parts of Europe--the few
Roman temples that have survived in Rome
have done so because, like this Duomo, they
were "converted" to Christian use; but there
is nothing else of this age, intactness, and
continuing function
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E.g.
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Back to the Baroque
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Doric columns at the head of what was the
cella
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More columns
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Looking off into one of the Baroque side
chapels
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Ceiling of another
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Play of light on the porch
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Bonus: right down the Duomo Square, which
is significant for other architectural reasons,
is the Church of Santa Lucia (patron saint of
Sircusa), in which resides a moderately
famous Caravaggio, namely, his Santa Lucia,
which he painted while on the lam between
his flight from Malta and return to Italy
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The Church has a no pix policy, and while the
guard was enforcing this with a group of
college-age tourists, I snapped what is truly a
Parthian Shot as I was walking out the door;
evidently, this is not one of the paintings on
which Caravaggio's reputation stands, being
largely a butt-shot of one of the grave
diggers...
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2 comments:
The architecture of that church is amazing!
I was really blown away by this church also. The incorporation of the ancient temple is amazing. And to think I almost missed it! My guidebook didn't make anything of it.
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