The name really does mean "bad house" or "house of evil"--from the time in the 8th and 9th centuries when the place was a sometime hang-out for plundering Danes and other Northmen ("Vikings"). Things got better when the French king Charles the Simple [probably not what his courtiers called him], simply gave Viking king Rollo much of what is now Normandy, with the understanding that Rollo would defend the Seine (and Paris and the rest of France ) against further Viking incursions. The rest is history, especially the bits about 1066, "once more dear friends unto the breach," Saving Private Ryan, and all that. But I digress.
As First Consul in the late 1790s, Napoleon's star had risen, and he and new wife Josephine needed a summer get-away from Paris. So he acquired Malmaison, had it brought up to date, and they were there together for some good times. Briefly. Long story short is that, after the divorce, it became hers. She died in 1814, when things also were going poorly for her former husband. After Waterloo, Napoleon returned to Malmaison briefly to consider his next moves, but ended up at St. Helena, way out in the ocean, a guest of the not entirely hospitality-minded British. Malmaison came to the state years later, and it is now a museum of Napoleon and Josephine; mostly Napoleon. We thought we'd seen enough of Napoleon at Fountainebleau, but there is plenty here, too.
It was a nice day's excursion--and we have done most of the rest of Paris' day excursions--but we can't recommend Malmaison except to the most dedicated Napoleon fans. Nonetheless...
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Turn here for Malmaison |
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We're walking the Josephine and Napoleon Trail |
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Helpful map...the full estate was not small |
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Malmaison...under the wrap and scaffolding one comes to expect over any historic building |
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Central bit |
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Approaching the chateau |
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Entry tent...much of the house seemed in the "campaign" sort of mode |
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Entry |
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Game room, with Napoleonic-sized billiard table; Josephine loved billiards and played regularly after dinner; seriously |
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An antechamber with portraits of assorted Egyptian rulers; N had just done his Egyptian campaign |
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Ossian Receiving the Ghosts of French Heroes, by Anne Louis Girodet; that Ossian? I ask; the chateau is decorated with Napoleonic things, not exactly as N and Josephine decorated it; with notable exceptions; much of the furniture came from their Tuileries palace |
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Music room |
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Dining |
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Council room; for small meetings |
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The ever-present Napoleonic eagle |
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Library |
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And beyond, N's study; the cabinet on the far left conceals a secret escape door; the desk--the real thing--was constructed so that documents (e.g., maps of Germany, Austria, Russia...) could be quickly hidden from prying eyes |
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Emperor's drawing room |
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The Josephine Room |
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Emperor's bed chamber |
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N as First Consul; standing before Malmaison |
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The Battle of the Pyramids, Louis-Francois Lejeune, 1804 |
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David [that David] made five nearly identical versions of Napoleon Crossing the Alps; this is the original, at Malmaison; muy famoso |
1 comment:
The checkerboard floor is nice, but the bedroom is weird! Always in camp?
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