Prague Food And Drink; And Smoke

As elsewhere in the past two years, we have mostly eaten-in in our apartment in Prague, though what we've eaten has largely been Czech or German fare; or our standard French or Italian dishes. When we've eaten-out, it's been street food or cafes or restos with outdoor seating. (Hardly anyone wears a mask here). Consequently, our experience has been quite limited. Not so limited, however, as to prohibit a few observations. 

The chief observation is that Czech food itself is still the meat-and-potatoes "hearty" blandness it was when we were last here, a decade ago. The despicable bread dumplings are everywhere. The happy corollary, however, is that--credit the tourists, the youngish population, the improved economy, or all--Prague has gotten very international in its food offerings. Within a few blocks of our building, one can find upscale Argentine steaks, Italian, French, Spanish, Vietnamese, Japanese, American BBQ, Georgian, and any other national cuisine you can imagine. (OK, not Russian). And they are popular. The arcade that passes through our building on the ground floor is called the "Gurmet Pasaz Dlouha," has a dozen restaurants or cafes, and there are foodie tours stopping at Nase Maso or the Three Sisters there throughout the day. 

The drink side of things has changed similarly. Czech beer is very cheap and very good. I've been drinking Pilsner Urquell, Staropramen, and Budweiser--the Budweiser, not the piss Americans drink--for a little more than a buck a bottle. It's universal, but that's not to say you can't get the usual aperitifs or wines, etc., anywhere in Prague. A Czech vineyard took first prize in the international Chardonnay competition in Lyon this year, so Czech wine is coming along. Probably global warming is helping.

Most smokers smoke cigarettes, but there are fine cigar stores all over town, sporting the Cubans, naturally. If you don't smoke tobacco, marijuana is legal and plentiful, a shop on every block, sometimes two. Maybe that's why we hear so many college-age kids speaking American English here.

Anyhow, here are samples, documentation, incidents, curiosities...

Perhaps the most common food site are the chimney cake stands
and shoppes; something imported from Hungary, we were told

We even tried some, enticed by this advert on
Carlova St.

Thus; another once-in-a-lifetime experience, we concluded

So what is a chimney cake? you ask...it's a pastry baked on a spit,
over charcoal, then filled with cream, or maybe ice cream, or fruit,
or maybe meat and dumplings; Wikipedia has its usual helpful
article here; if you like burnt bread and ice cream, this is for you

Another popular street food item was ham roasted over a wood
fire

Goulash and dumplings; I guess you have to go to Hungary or
Austria or Bavaria to get interesting goulash; the potato dumplings
were nearly interesting

In three weeks in central Prague, we saw no food trucks; just
this food tram on Wenceslas Square

Fancy Fries...best frites in Prague

Barware in our apartment...a good clue as to what you're expected

to drink in Prague; I did my part

Czechs have come up with many innovative ways to drink beer

Not least the beer hot tubs

Entrance to the gourmet passage in our building

The main draw is Nase Maso, a butcher shop with a deli on the
front end...scores of customers standing and eating in the arcade
whenever it's open

Best pastrami ever, Vicki said; we had it three times

Front end of Nase Maso

Sushi train at the Palladium

Venison restaurant in Old Town; also rabbit,
boar, auroch...

Actually fits right in with Czech fare

Americana

The farmers' market in Smichov...well beyond the tourist zone,
a real market

Mountains of sausage

Beautiful, very tempting cigar shop just down the street; one
of dozens in Prague

Of course, you don't have to smoke tobacco

Or marijuana; you can drink it

Comfort food, for us