Friday, October 21, 2022

Jugendstil Walk 1

The two days following our Kunsthistorischemuseum visit offered fine weather, with temps in or approaching the 70s. Thus we resolved on two days of walks exploring some of Vienna's Jugendstil architecture. Jugendstil (young style) is the German version of Art Nouveau, also known here as Secessionist, although all these art and architecture terms are squishy, nationality-dependent, and imprecise. Art Nouveau, Liberty, Modernisme, stil Horta, stil Sapin, stil Mucha, Tiffany Style, depending on where you are and what you're looking at (a building, a painting, decorative arts, etc.). Hey, if you're just interested in beauty, who cares about precision? Besides we also like some of the Neo-classical stuff that the Art Nouveau types were rebelling (seceding) against, particularly if it has enough caryatids, atlantines, etc.

The problem with such targeted, self-directed walks such as we planned is that, in a city like Vienna (or Prague, or Paris, etc.), you're constantly being distracted by other sights, monuments, restaurants, cafes, shops, cathedrals, museums, art and architecture not on the prescribed list. So you go out for pix of six buildings and a clock and come back with 300 pix, most of which are not what you planned on seeing. Serendipity is the greatest, but it really complicates the narrative thread. So to speak. Anyhow, below are the Jugendstil pix from our first day's architecture walk. I'll work the other 250 into a miscellaneous Vienna scenes post. Or two.

Ever wondered what a Jugendstil observatory would look like? Of course
you have! Here is Max Fabiani's Urania building, 1910, originally to
be the Royal Observatory

Fabiani was one of (Otto) Wagner's associates; the place is now
the city planetarium and was mobbed with students so we did not
venture inside; we rated it a meh anyway
Otto Wagner is the big name in Jugendstil architecture and this is
among his putative masterpieces, the Postparkasse building

Acquired by one of the universities and now undergoing some renovation

This puppy covers an entire large city block, is five or six stories
high, and is "decorated" with 87 gazillion little aluminum rivet-
like things...the principal process for making aluminum (the Bayer
process) was invented by an Austrian chemist...

Entry

In the main hall; the NBA-class R2D2 devices adorn the whole place

Thus

It's now being used as a sort of student center...with mirror-top tables
throughout

Closer-up of the overgrown R2D2

Industrial grade pillars also adorn the main hall;
note the glass block flooring...which directs light
to the hall below

"White, white, white is the color of our carpet"

The place also houses the Otto Wagner Museum, which I ventured
into briefly



I'm not seeing the beauty here

Moving right along, another beauty that is not, alas,
on our list

What is on our list, however, is the Anker (Anchor) Clock, so
surpassingly interesting and great as to merit its own post

Another beauty

By now something had attracted us down one of
upscale pedestrianized boulevards, the Graben,* and 
then we got caught up in the cathedral's tractor beam...

Which was definitely not on the Jugendstil list but ultimately OK
since I wanted a picture of the pretty part of the roof (over the chancel) 

Moving right along...

To the Angel Pharmacy




Lastly (omitting the Clock, a fabulous Billa Corso
supermarket, a leisurely stroll down the Graben, the Julius
Meinl gourmet supermarket, Demel, and assorted
other non-Jugendstil sites), the Artaria House, by (again)
Max Fabiani, whose other claim to fame was in 1912
briefly employing a young drawing assistant named
Adolf Schicklgruber (aka Hitler)






























*not Smashen und Graben: all the upscale stores, and there are many, have armed guards stationed at the door.


1 comment:

Tawana said...

Interesting comment about the armed guards. We came across one of those in a Chicago JoAnn's fabric store.