Bratislava Scenes, 1

We didn't start out counting countries we'd visited, but at some point the question arose, and since then we've been more attentive to the matter and more willing to go just a little out of the way to add another notch to our walking sticks. Thus, Slovakia. But in the case of Slovakia, there's more since, at one time I (ignorantly) thought we'd been there, and made representations accordingly on the website, and a friendly Slovakian reader called me on it. Since then we have been sure to get to Slovakia at the next opportunity. Bratislava, the capital, is only 30-some miles from Vienna, so this was our chance.

Slovakia? you ask. Isn't that part of Czechoslovakia? Long story short is that Czechoslovakia came into being only after WWI, somehow survived Hitler and the Russians, emerging in the Velvet Revolution of 1989. In 1993, there was the Velvet Divorce, when the Czech Republic and Slovakia, for a variety of reasons, ethnic and economic, amicably parted ways. Thus Slovakia. And its capital Bratislava, which also served as Hungary's capital when the Ottoman Turks were occupying most of the rest of Hungary, centuries ago, including the regular capital, Budapest. It's even more complicated than that, but the bottom line is: we had to go there. And did.

Our visit to Bratislava was a day trip from Vienna, taking the Flixbus both ways and letting Rickie Stevie be our guide. The old part of Bratislava--a city of half a million--is really only a few blocks, plus the castle and some other outliers. Pressburg, the Hapsburgs called it. Most of contemporary Bratislava consists of the huge sprawling apartment blocks favored by communist regimes throughout eastern Europe. Fortunately, they're off in the distance across the river. The commies had no use for the Old Town and let it go to seed. Enough Bratislavans now see it as a heritage site and an economic opportunity and have done much to bring it back.

Anyhow, I'll do posts on Old Town scenes, the cathedral, the castle, the Blue Church, and the usual out-takes. It was a very busy and productive day.

I love leaving the driving to them

Major Bratislava landmark, the restaurant on the major tower of
the bridge over the Danube; communist-era innovation, now pretty much
despised, we read

Excellent signage

Part of New Bratislava we did not visit

The cathedral (later post) and an extensive exhibit
on the synagogue that once stood here: removed not
by bombs or artillery or fire but by the need to build
an off-ramp from the bridge; in 1969

Street scene; note British embassy on left; there are embassies
and consulates all over the old town

Older building of interest

Most of the old town streets have been pedestrianized

Dragons are big here

So are caryatids, atlantines, etc.

St. Michael's Gate and Tower, under renovation
to take it back to its Baroque splendor

Busker good enough to merit a few of Vicki's coins;
I only give to oboists

Marker at St. Michael's Gate, ground zero Slovakia...

Napoleon besieged Bratislava (Pressburg) in 1809 and left a number
of cannonballs, a few of which are still stuck where they landed; 
this above a cafe where we had some of the best hot chocolate ever...

Pavement in much of old town; the commies had no use for the
old town and sold much of its old cobblestone paving to (West)
Germany, which was trying to rebuild its ancient towns and cities
after the war

Historic resto renovated to its 18th century glory

We prefer fin de siecle or 20th century glory

Alas, its three Atlantines are identical! Shame!

Statue and fountain in main square...certain
details will appear in the out-takes

Another cannonball; BTW, Napoleon won the
siege

And another embassy

Statue of the "Schoener"--a resident who
for years would accost young ladies he 
fancied with the word "Schoen" (pretty);
imagine getting a statue just for being a 
dirty old man