Friday, September 17, 2021

Fountainebleau, 1: The Napoleon Museum

Sunday, September 5th, we took the RER out to Fountainebleau, a quick 35 miles or so, passing through Melun, which we got to know in 2019. We had visited the chateau at Fountainebleau in 1979, we think, and have skipped it in all our subsequent Paris visits. But we thought we'd take another look, a more mature look, this time around. There is a great deal there, the Napoleon Museum and the chateau itself, and the grounds, so I'll do two posts. Lest anyone be mislead, it's still a distant second to Versailles, as French royal palaces go. But it's much older and more historic. And much more complicated.

Fountainebleau and grounds; before we could get nearly this far
in the grounds, a huge thunderstorm came up: end of our tour;
thanks for the picture, Wikipedia

Main entrance, under construction wraps; but the wraps were
interesting

Usually the wraps just picture the building being renovated; this one show members of France's assorted royal dynasties, on the left; every French king and queen, from the 12th century through the Bourbons, made Fountainbleau a home; some were born or died there; on the right, of course, is the new guy, a commoner, tearing his way in...Napoleon didn't spend a lot of time at Fountainbleau--he
was more often away on campaigns--although he favored it over Versailles

Our first tourist train in two years! You don't see them in the city;
but every little town or chateau has one

Another World Heritage Site; we must have seen a couple
hundred over the past 13 years

Anyhow, we are off now into the Napoleon Museum,
which constitutes a floor of one of the chateau's many
wings

Gerard's Coronation portrait

One of David's portraits of the emperor

There were a couple rooms of commemorative dishes and plates
and serving pieces and such from state dinners...after so many
visits to the British Museum and the V&A we are sort of over
serving pieces for now

I'm still into urns, however, especially of General Bonaparte meeting
folks from the Near East

Some of N's campaign kit

Re-creation of N's campaign tent, cot, table and chairs, etc.

Stuff actually worn by him


The first empress, Josephine, gets scant mention
and coverage; Marie Louise of Austria, the second
empress, succeeded where Josephine had not, that is,
in bearing Napoleon an heir; it's complicated

Cradle of Napoleon II

Toys for the heir, who was emperor for two weeks in 1814; was 
given a title; died of TB when he was 21; very complicated

So after Russia and Elba and Waterloo, Napoleon
was off to St. Helens, courtesy of the British, to
write his memoirs; what a book deal it might have
been, had they such things back then

Family tree...very complicated...especially as it gets into some
of today's royal houses

View of some of the chateau as we left the museum wing


Tuesday, September 14, 2021

Paris Scenes, 2

More not entirely random scenes from our various walks around...

Vicki was running dangerously low on scones and
clotted cream and so we walked up to the Grevin
Marks and Spencer, which was located actually
off the Passage Grevin, one of the better covered 
arcades in the city, one we had visited before...
much nice 19th century stuff

At the Pizzeria Zola, the pizza of the week...
the Proust..."all them memories come floodin' back"

Said to be the only thing in the world that makes Madame Tussaud
look good

At a nearby print store...she'll be inducted into the
Pantheon, only the 6th woman, November 30th;
the highest honor any French person can receive
here, my favorite Paris song...

A boutique in the Marais; Princess Tam Tam was perhaps her
best known movie

The Rue de Petit Carreaux, a lively street from here in the
2nd nearly all the way to the river; changes its name to Rue
Montorgueil after a few blocks; muy famoso

Interesting eel presentation at a fish market

1780 patisserie

"At a house on this site"...lived Moliere, the great playwright

Sad/hopeful view across the river

The other view hasn't changed

Everywhere you turn, beautiful Art Nouveau
buildings, this on the Boulevard Haussmann

Lionel Messi, greatest footballer ever, will soon play for the Paris
team; people are excited

We didn't know what it was until Vicki asked...President Macron's
residence on the Champs Elysees; not pictured: the 40 or so police
vans surrounding the compound

Me doing Duolingo at a cafe...so French!







Paris Scenes, 1

As I wrote earlier, our first several days here were mostly about errands and chores, setting up housekeeping, and then some minor walks to check on our old neighborhood in the 11th. Here are some pix from those days...

Paris has been taking great strides in greening itself up, especially
during COVID

Thus, the Oasis of Aboukir, whole side of a
building, a few blocks from us

But we really think it has gone far enough in some cases

Speaking of COVID, every pharmacy in the city has a little tent
outside for testing and vaccination

In France, there's a $160 fine for being an asshole; nose and mouth;
the US could pay off the national debt and all future national debt by
so fining the assholes


Can't remember where we were going (Decathlon?), but somehow
we wandered into the Printemps and got to see its rotunda

Now in the Champs Elysees area, to see our landlord...at a glass
store, Daum, Vicki liked

Interesting stuff they're doing with glass nowadays

Another day, walking over to the 11th, where we had apartments
in 2014 and 2019, to see how it was doing; passing by the Place
de la Republic

A shop filled with antiques caught our eye...turns out it was a
store for decorators, selling to the trade only

At the corner of Ledru Rollin and Charonne, my favorite, Le Bistrot
du Peintre
, appears to be doing just fine

So also our favorite crepes joint, Creperie Bretonne

Lunch that day

Septime was packed; as always
Our 2019 apartment on Rue Faidherbe appeared
unchanged


















The Bastille Market was there as usual (Thursday, it was); somewhat
fewer stalls, and many fewer customers--the tourists are pretty much
gone; it was weird being able to step right up to the counter, not being
elbowed and bruised nor run over by carts and carriages; but otherwise
pretty much as always







































































































































































































































































































I was particularly relieved to see the fridge magnet guy still there...


















Waiting for the bus, outside one of the beautiful shops beneath
the Promenade Plantee and Viaduct des Artes