Saturday, August 7, 2021

Harry Potter And The Bowels of Fire

The plan for the day was to walk to Kings Cross station, do the Platform 9 3/4 thing, then Tube to Leadenhall, another Harry Potter site, both in the interest of our grand-daughter, Penelope, who is now a serious student of the lore. Then, and thus in the center of The City, we would look around and see what else was of interest. No plan survives first contact, according to Rommel, and sometimes, I admit, our "targets of opportunity" approach actually fizzles. But not this day. The title will become clear as our story unfolds.

Inside Kings Cross; maybe not as you'd imagined it
Extremely famous site (actually part of the adjacent
Potter store; like Mordor, you can't just walk out onto the 
platforms...); we had read that you can expect up to 
a 20 minute wait, en queue, for your photo opp here

But that was pre-COVID, and it was still in the
AM, and so we walked right up and did the pix;
alone and unmolested

Adjacent is one of the larger Potter shoppes we have seen

Wand selection

Leadenhall market, scene of Dragon Alley; not ancient,
but pretty old...14th century origins, but the current get-up
is decidedly Victorian


The only store that actually interested us; here we stimulated
the local economy and later enjoyed the bellotta along with some
manchego and cava; la vida es buena




















Then you turn around and look up and you're
confronting one of the masterpieces of Bowellism

The Lloyd's Building; aka the "Inside-Out" building

Designed by Richard Rogers ("Some enchanted
evening..." wait, no...), who also did the Pompidiou
in Paris

Bowellism, a variety of structural expressionism, is said
by some to have originated with Gaudi [really??]; I actually
like this stuff, although I am not sure it supports the stable
and conservative image that banking and insurance
companies like to cultivate

This is how close it is to Leadenhall

Spare parts

Apparently their policy doesn't cover climbing accidents


Most interestingly, Lloyd's moved the facade of
their older (1928) building so it could be the 
entrance to the new tower; look in through the doors
and you'll see bowels

Nice nod to history, tradition, I thought

Turn around again, and...if you like historical and
architectural contrast, London is hard to beat


Disused toilettes in the middle of the street
(discreetly underground, of course)

And the now fiery bit: this is Wren's Great Fire
Monument, 202 feet high, and 202 feet from the
bakery, on Pudding Lane, where the fire broke
out on the night of September 2, 1666; so I have
been wondering: where was Wren on that fateful
night? He is known to have enjoyed puddings...
does he have an alibi? Airtight? Prior to the fire,
he was merely a lecturer in anatomy and astronomy
at Oxford, making frequent trips to London for science
club meetings...Who, other than Wren--who
subsequently designed the new St. Paul's and
some fifty other rebuilt churches--benefited more
from that fire? Just wondering...

The Monument's official inscription

Helpful translation for those of us who don't read Latin anymore
and are not giraffes; the operative bit at the bottom describes the end
of the fire: "...the fatal fire stayed its course and everywhere died
out. *(But Popish frenzy, which wrought such horrors, is not yet
quenched.) *These lines were added in 1681, and finally deleted
in 1830." The Fire destroyed much of The City but did not advance
toward Westminster; 13,000 homes and many businesses, churches,
and public buildings were destroyed; an obscure teacher of astronomy
at Oxford, of Royalist stock, with no previous architectural
experience, was given responsibility for much of the rebuilding...
hmmm

We crossed the bridge for better views of the river and HMS
Belfast, now guarding the Tower Bridge so it won't be sold to
Arizona

Also the Tower; but with many pressing questions on our minds
we returned to Handel St.

1 comment:

Tawana said...

You packed a lot into this day!