Sunday, July 26, 2009

Trondheim Cathedral

Bastille Day. We drove through unusually diverse terrain on the way to Trondheim, taking the longer but quicker route recommended by the tourist information guy at Andalsnes. Part alpine, part high barren plain, most of it beautiful valleys, rivers, and fields. As we proceed north we don't expect to see many more strawberry fields.

I very much enjoyed Trondheim Cathedral, the major attraction of this "gateway to the north." It is the national cathedral, Trondheim being once the capital, a martyrdom/pilgrimage site, the site also of coronations and burials of Norwegian royalty. It is gray soapstone, 11th-13th century, originally Romanesque, then Gothic, as is usually the case with this vintage. It has beautiful stained glass, unlike the rest of Scandinavia we have seen, but was very dark inside, in part because of the stone, in part because of its park setting, in part because it was a very gray day. No pictures inside were allowed; not that they would have turned out. The exterior is striking, the size, color, and, especially, the intactness of it all. The Protestants looted this cathedral when they took over, but did not deface it. So, if you want to see a real 13th century cathedral, unspoiled by war, revolution, or ecclesiastical change, Trondheim is a great treat. I don't know of anything else like it. The west face, the typanum, are really incredible.

Trondheim Cathedral

Two towers and a spire

West facade; the rose window inside was wonderful

JC and the rose window

Adam and Eve, the only other figures on the facade we recognized

Largest cathedral gift shop I have yet seen...an entire building; 
no Unemployed Philosophers Guild Jesus dolls here!


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