Still Not Our Favorite Museum

We visited the Scottish National Museum in 2009 and were unimpressed. We thought we'd give it another go in 2019, but came away with pretty much the same impressions...disorganized, no apparent narrative to follow, even in small bits. Many interesting items, but little coherence. I took rather more pix, however, so that is hopeful. Maybe it will grow on us.

Scotland's first Mini, among the first anywhere; love the color

Assorted carvings from the paleolithic, neolithic, pictish, medieval, whatever

Mixed old stuff

Distant relations in the neolithic (the axe is from the southern
Alps)

Definitely medieval; the signage said it is a woman giving
birth; we thought it more of a Sheila-na-gig

A clarsach, a medieval Highland harp, only a few in
existence; the display case is 1904 Art Nouveau

 

Very famous Lewis chess men. medieval; the rest of the set is where the rest of
every set is...the British Museum

The McCoys (Mackays) are up top; marginalized, as it were

Another clarsach

Scottish myths and realities

Specimens of favorite Charles Rennie Mackintosh

Putatively close relative

Much of the industrial revolution was in Scotland

Old Glenfiddich still, another sort of steam power

The 6th floor terrace affords some fine views of Edinburgh

Somewhat cluttered view in the direction of Arthur's Seat

Dorsal Dolly

First cloned animal, so to speak

In the natural history section...maybe next time

Edinburgh Tattoo

We first did the Tattoo--the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo--in 2009, and were enthralled; again in 2013, perhaps our best visit; and again this year, 2019. It's hard to explain: military marching bands strutting their stuff, very international, production values that are rising to the top for an outdoor performance, all in the Esplanade (review field) in front of Edinburgh Castle. Perhaps you have to have Scottish blood in your veins, or other Scottish spirits in your veins, but for us it is still a great experience, much more than mere fun. This year's participants were (quoting from the website) "China, France, Germany, New Zealand, Nigeria and Trinidad, as well as homegrown talent from the UK at the centre of it all." All these "are reinforced by the legendary sound of the Massed Pipes and Drums--more than 250 pipers and drummers from Scottish Regiments, the Pipers Trail and around the world--and the dazzle and athleticism of the Tattoo Dance Company, along with enchanting tunes from the Hjaltibonhoga fiddlers from the Shetland Isles." [Rachel note]. BTW, in Scotland, the stress is on the second syllable of "tattoo." Must be Gaelic. We'd go again, every year, if we could.

Opening ceremonies, presentation of the something-or-other, very military, very
Scottish; Vicki adds that it is the presentation of a wee dram...seriously...how I
could have missed this is puzzling...

Entry of the massed pipes and drums, 250 strong, "Scotland the Brave," a real
heart-thumper

The German band, mit beer hall maidens putsching und schoving (Beer hall putsch;
look it up) 

The steel drum band from Trinidad

The French doing the can-can

Pretty incredible: the marching violin band Hjaltibonhoga from the Shetlands

Personal favorite, always: New Zealand; note lighting on castle walls...rivals
the best we saw at D-Land a few months before

They march and play, conventionally, and then do a haka, always the biggest
crowd-pleaser; see Vicki's interesting side-ways take below...

Massed bands

Now I've seen everything: a marching bassoon (saw marching oboes in Spain
in 2017)

Fireworks

The Lone Piper

How much longer, one wonders: Scotland voted overwhelmingly to Remain
and may well leave the Union in order to stay in the EU; thus also Northern
Ireland...

Maybe Little England and Wales can keep the colors

Scotland the Brave

Edinburgh Castle Scenes

And so it came to pass that one day we visited Edinburgh Castle, not for the first time, but because we could (English Heritage memberships) and it was there (on the way to something) and there are fine views of parts of the environs and it is a fine opportunity to mingle with the masses of non-European tourists who are wondering what day it is and what the Festival and Fringe are all about. They have already stopped at the Scotch Whiskey Experience and the Tartan Weaving Mill and thus their memories of Edinburgh will be of smoky, gray, tartan hangovers.

Castle (left); somebody else's photo although I have one just like it taken from
the Elephant House in 2009

Approaching from the west end of New Town; the bleachers and field are
backed up by the castle, on the right, out of view; the temporary stadium is
set up every August for the Tattoo (next post)

There's really not much to see unless you're deeply into Scottish history, or really
serious dioramas, or the Scone of Destiny and other family jewels

Thus; see my 2009 post from Scone for further important
background information 

Still aimed more or less at the National Gallery

Busy skyline

Possibly in the direction of Arthur's Seat, which I climbed in 2009

Looking down into New Town

In the distance, the spires of the new Firth of Forth bridge; the old (famous)
railroad bridge you can see just a bit of on the right

We think our flat is in the lower part of the center, left of the church tower; down
there somewhere, anyway