Tuesday, June 11, 2024

Initial Paris Wanderings, 2024

We arrived May 23rd and by the evening had unpacked, moved in, bought groceries, etc. No need to explore the apartment nor neighborhood, since we stayed here for 7 weeks last year. Daughter Rebecca and grand-daughter Penelope were not due for a couple more days, so we mostly relaxed, took several walks, and battled the jet lag. Below are some scenes from those walks.

A favorite activity is just taking in all the great variety of architecture;
every block has numerous examples, sometime of historic note

Sometimes it's just the portal

Film production underway near Rue Vavin

More beauties


At the Edgar Quinet market, Montparnasse, interesting
display

Hobbit asparagus

Morelles; and not from Montana

More architecture, this one, we surmised, sort of a transition from
nouveau to deco



Along Boulevard Raspail, a block's brocante stands...always 
interesting

Our (now) vast experience with eBay and such has
led to a protocol: shoot-it, Lens-it, consult eBay for
current listings, pricing...this one not so attractive 

On one of several strolls in Luxembourg Garden, the palais in
the background

So Paris...

All abloom

On another walk, now in the Cite, the barrier between the cathedral
and its forecourt is now a photographic tribute to the many workers,
artisans, others contributing to the repair of the church

A large and very tasteful tribute...carpenters, stonemasons, art historians,
architects, electricians, engineers, custodial, security, management...hundreds

Opening by Christmas, they now say

Official Olympics poster, in the souvenir department of our favorite
department store, BHV (Bazar d' l'Hotel de Ville), in the Marais; 
like most of Paris, seemingly, we're mostly ignoring it all, insofar
as possible; I suppose I'll buy a fridge magnet eventually

A block away from the BHV, our 2022 apartment was on
this street in the Marais

Bowellism's greatest example, the Centre Pompidou;
its scheduled closing for a five-year renovation now
postponed until after the Olympics; I'm still wondering
why something not fifty years old needs renovation...












Back in our neighborhood, Henri Sauvage's 1914 stepped/terraced
apartment building, at 26 Rue Vavin...a first step toward modernism...
the facade in blue-trimmed gleaming white tile; Simone de Beauvoir
lived here in late 1930s, I've read, though I found no historical
marker

Rue de Fleurus intersects with rue Jean Bart, where we live, and,
not a block away is 27 rue de Fleurus, which I've walked past
dozens of times without looking up...but now I genuflect when
passing by...

The site of Gertrude Stein's Saturday evening salons; her guests, friends
and clients being pretty much a who's who of Euro-American art and
literature in the first half of the 20th century

See Kathy Bates' convincing portrayal of her in Midnight
in Paris

 

New Bern And The Beach

After the Palace, we ventured on to the museum, and lunch, and then into downtown New Bern. And beyond that, Atlantic Beach.


Time line

Helpful map

Helpful model

Museum portrait gallery






Founded originally by the Swiss, from Bern





































































Reminded us not a little of Savannah




















Pretty main drag

Bears everywhere

Wonderfully restored saloon

Even a speck of art deco
But the main attraction was...

The birthplace of Pepsi Cola
Original recipe

Scads of artifacts



Thus sated, we drove on to Atlantic Beach, NC, where a gale was
blowing and all kinds of "don't go in the water" signs abounded

We were there long enough to get thoroughly salt-sprayed and for
P to frolic lightly in the water

And then drove back, a couple hours at least, through thunderstorms,
to Cary; fortunately Rebecca doesn't mind all the driving...thanks
Rebecca for a wonderful day





New Bern: The Tryon Palace

On May 8th Rebecca and Penelope treated us to a day-trip to New Bern, in eastern NC, and then on to Atlantic Beach, in the Outer Banks, both parts of the state we had not seen before. New Bern is a pretty eastern Carolina town, relatively old for these parts, nicely renovated, self-regarding, and attractive. The main draw is the (reconstructed) Governor's Palace, Tryon Palace. Of note also is that New Bern was the birthplace of Pepsi Cola.

Pano of the palace: left is the staff area, kitchen, laundry, secretary's offices; center, the palace itself;
right, stables and staff (slave) housing; all petty much like a (modest) English great house, as you would
expect
The Guv's chamber; the governor was royally-appointed, so the
capital was wherever the then-governor happened to live 

Music room

View across the lawn, to the river...

Dining

Oddly, a portrait of Scottish philosopher Thomas
Reid; the docent explained this as a reference to
Thomas Paine...the proponent of "common sense
philosophy" as a father of the American Revolution?!
I stifled myself; no connection; Reid's "argument from 
design" was one of philosophy's great jokes,
refuted by the bon David Hume 20 years before Reid
concocted it...stifle yourself...


Grand staircase

Amenities, necessaries

Guest room


Guv's boudoir

Kiddie room

Pantry; in the basement now

Butler's pantry: note bars

Housekeeper's quarters

Now in the service building, the hearth...and excellent docent
work throughout



Washing boards

Governor's secretary's office

In the gardens


Among the excellent signage


Alas, not planted in flowering vines!!! Could easily have surpassed 
Three generations