Wednesday, February 12, 2020

Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School, 1

The routine was generally this: pick up at hotel around 9:30, arrival at the market or the school around 10 to 10:30, brief introductions, then demonstration/cooking/eating until 3 or 3:30, and then return to hotel. Six dishes per day. In every case, first a demonstration in the classroom, then individual cooking in the student cooking areas, then eating (or, as in my case, sampling). Rinse, repeat. For a person like myself, who enjoys Thai food, it was an economical way to sample 30 classic Thai dishes, intelligently, insightfully, with all meals included. Plus, with Chefs Garnet and Pon, it was the most fun I've ever had cooking or learning about cooking. I'd recommend it without hesitation.

Classes in my case ranged from 5 to 12 students, mostly Europeans, a few Chinese and Korean, one other American over the five days. Well, two, including Vicki, who attended one day. Most, I'd guess, had no more than casual experience in the kitchen (like me), although a few seemed a bit more experienced. Classes were conducted entirely in English, although both Pon and Garnet were multi-lingual...Thai, English, French, Chinese. And entirely conversant about cooking and cuisines in other cultures. Earlier in her career, Garnet had been a chef at the Raffles Fairmont in Singapore, doing mostly Continental cuisine. Go to www.thaicookeryschool.com for more information.

The dishes included in the five day course were:

Day 1: Hot and sour prawn soup (Tom Yum Goong; my personal favorite), green curry with chicken, fish cakes, fried noodles, minced pork northern style, water chestnuts with sugar syrup and coconut milk
Day 2: Panaeng curry with pork, Chiang Mai curry with chicken, fried fish with chili and basil, sweet and sour vegetables, spicy glass noodle salad, black sticky rice pudding
Day 3: Chicken in coconut milk soup (Tom Kha Gai, another favorite), red curry with fish, fried mixed mushrooms with baby corn, fried big noodles with thick sauce and pork, papaya salad, steamed banana cake
Day 4: Yellow curry with chicken, steamed fish in banana leaves, chicken with cashew nuts, fried big noodles with sweet soy sauce, spicy prawn salad northeastern style, bananas in coconut milk
Day 5: Clear soup with minced pork, spring rolls, red curry with roast duck, chicken with ginger, chicken in pandan leaves, mango with sticky rice

I started with Day 4, and Vicki came in for Day 5. Oh yes, at the conclusion of each day, students received a copy of the glossy school cookbook, with all the recipes, plus much other information on sauces, curries, ingredients, utensils, techniques, and more.

For the blog, I'll just include some more representative or favorite pix...
Every dish/lesson demonstration began with a mis en place...and
explanation; and sometimes tasting of more exotic items

My fried big noodles

Part of one of the two student cooking areas

How to wrap banana leaves for steamed fish

With my own chicken in yellow curry creation

In addition to the six dishes, there was much instruction on
the little extras that go into fine cooking

My spicy prawn salad; a considerable upgrade from my previous so-called
Bangkok shrimp cocktail

How to cut a tomato rose (sculptured fruit and vegetables
are a hallmark of Thai cooking)

Vicki's beautiful tomato rose

My disaster of a carrot tree

Pandan leaves, grown everywhere, unexceptional in taste and aroma until they
are bruised or torn...then...vanilla!

How to wrap a spring roll

How the dish is supposed to look

How mine looked

Vicki watching the demonstration

Me assisting the demonstration (as if...)

Sculpting a mango

The finished mango with sticky rice

Friday (Day 5) lunch: chicken with ginger, red curry with roast duck, and mango
with sticky rice; washed down with a Singha

Sam Yaek Market

On a couple occasions, the cooking classes began with a visit to the Sam Yaek market, out in the Chiang Mai burbs where the cookery school is (it's actually in a gated community), in order to introduce both some of the ingredients but also the experience of shopping in a Thai market. I've seen a few markets now, and this was one of the most ample and enjoyable yet.

One of the Cookery School's interns begins our lesson in basic Thai flavorings

"Three kinds of Thai basil...sweet, lemon, and Holy" [expletive deleted, I added]

Galangal root

Long bean

Chef Garnet arrives to tell us about Thai noodles

And Thai rices (short grain for sticky; prefer Jasmine for long grain: more moist)

And coconut

Coconut cream- and milk-making machine (not the old-
fashioned way)



Ingredients for various dishes bundled for your convenience

Thai sushi

Celebratory goodies

Shrine offering goodies

Yes, Thai cigarets wrapped in banana, with matches, etc.;
"what? the Buddha doesn't smoke filtered?" I asked

Thai Easter eggs, Chef Pon told us one day; he cracked one open, and, sure
enough, the interior appeared to be chocolate, with a dark chocolate core...
they're pickled eggs, of course

Sausage

Largest strawberries I've seen outside of Norway 

Dragon fruit

Coconut pancakes, for which I have developed quite a taste

Chiang Mai Scenes

We were a week in Chiang Mai, all-told, six days and seven nights. The main activity, for five straight days, was cooking school, at the Chiang Mai Thai Cookery School. Five days for me, one for Vicki. After school and a brief rest, we were out on the town daily to find a place for Vicki to eat and then to explore the neighborhoods together. (After preparing and eating six dishes a day, for five days, I did not need an evening meal; or breakfast, for that matter). We stayed in the old city, bounded by walls and canals. Wats and markets, mostly, were what we visited. The other things to do in Chiang Mai included trekking in the hill country, zip-lining, looking at elephants, and other things we've done before or have no interest in doing now. I'll devote a post to miscellaneous scenes, several to the cookery school, a couple or more to the wats (700 in Chiang Mai), one to the Sunday night walking market, and one to the usual out-takes. 
Decor at one corner of the old city wall

Canal; originally a moat defending the old city

Matching the hatch

Electric line arch

Not far from our hostel we found and gawked at this
unusual structure, the Pingdoi Hualin Boutique Hotel; some
neo-classical, some Lanna, some art deco...

Eclectic, yes?

Near the restaurant, an early food truck

Rear building

The most common transportation in Chiang Mai seemed to be the songthaew,
a pick-up, the rear of which is covered and seats 6-8; not a taxi, not a tuk-tuk,
no set route; you hail one, tell the driver where you want to go, and if he's headed
in that direction, you'll pay 40 baht and hop in for an interesting ride with others
going your way; hundreds of these, all over the city

Night lighting near the wall

Our street; Thai street signs, all over the country are this ornate

I think it was three years ago, maybe in Argentina or maybe Spain, we vowed
never again to stay in something called a "hostel"; like most nowadays, this one
had private en suite rooms, actually quite nice, if spartan; OK for our purposes;
but noisy: partly the restaurant next door, and partly the youthful clientele

Outside police headquarters, Chiang Mai

Not unusual street shrine

Very famous Three Kings monument; "we three kings of Orient are..." I was
singing (softly)

Outside a voc/tech college; doesn't look like Thai dancing to me...

Long registration line? 

Helpful bronze map of Old City

The old-fashioned way

Beautiful green tunnel, huge bamboo