Friday, October 4, 2013

Cinque Terre: Manarola

Manarola was the last of Five Lands for us. For those of you scoring the trip, we did the Five from La Spezia in this order: 4-1-5-3-2. Incidentally, that is a possible firing order for a 5 cylinder engine. Cinque cylindri motori. 
Manarola's marina of sorts; one of the more picturesque of
the Five















Interesting rock














Looking "up" the coast, you can see Corniglia, Vernazza,
and Monterosso















Closer-up of high Cornigila; more warped and twisted rock














Having walked up the coast a bit, looking back to Manarola














Manarola street scene


















We decided to have a late lunch in Manarola; me with the
Vermentia wine of the region and a plate of fried seafood















Vicki's pesto ravioli in walnut sauce














Us at Manarola















The train blasts into Manarola station, ready to take us to our
journey's end; our set is complete



Cinque Terre: Corniglia

Next up was Cornigilia, the only one of the Five that has no port/harbor/marina. It's way up the hill, 377 steps. But there's a shuttle bus (of course) for those who are in a hurry or who don't mind paying 2 euros. Cornigilia, it is written, is the only one of the Five from which you can see all four others. Why would you want to, I ask? Anyhow, it is worth noting that, this being Monday, the hordes and phalanxes of US college students were gone, replaced now by bus loads of American older tourists. The museums in Florence and other nearby places are closed on Mondays, so the tours shift into day-excursion mode. Saint Jimmy-Johnny, Sink Terror, stuff like that.
Corniglia, him/herself


















View towards Motorola and Rigamarole














Looking back into the interior...we think we drove through/by
this town on our approach to La Spezia















It's truly a Rickie Stevie wonderland


















The train station/tracks from the beginning of the 377 stairs
down















What the stairs look like about mid-way














Next stop: Manarola

Thursday, October 3, 2013

Cinque Terre: Monterosso

It started raining Saturday night when we arrived at the train station in La Spezia. The rain fell harder about 10PM as we discerned that La Spezia buses really did stop running at 8PM. We also discerned that taxis showed up at the train station only on the hour, when trains arrived. We finally got a cab and got back to the campground by 11:30PM, 16 euros poorer, but somewhat wiser. You'd think after five years of this we wouldn't be making elementary transportation mistakes. It rained, torrentially, nearly all day Sunday, but Monday dawned far more promising, and we were back on the Sestre Levante train, now to Monterosso, the farthest of the Five.
I think Monterosso is the most photogenic of them--here we're on the beach,
looking back toward Vernazza--but Monterosso is the least "isolated," actually
reachable by car, and therefore, some say, not "typical"; of course all of them
are reachable by car, just not tourist car, and all have been reachable by train
since 1870; it's all just a bit precious if you ask me 



















Monterosso is also reachable by RV, which by itself should be cause for its
expulsion...















Having walked along the beach/boardwalk a bit, now looking back to town















In the farther distance, Corniglia, way up on the hill












Beach fortifications














In town now














Looking at St. Giovanni's church...Ligurian
Romanesque; also Zebraesque



















Inside


















Attributed to Van Dyke


















High water/mud mark from latest flooding














Monterosso street scene


















Pretty coastline














Close encounter

Cinque Terre: Riomaggiore

Actually, we spent more time in Riomaggiore (Rigamorole) than any of the other four. This was because, in addition to having had some pizza and foccacia in Vernazza, we decided to have another snack, after dark, in Riomaggiore. We figured the La Spezia buses ran way into the night on weekends. Plus we spent a bit of extra time waiting on the train in Riomaggiore. And then we also came back on Monday to get a day-time look and some pix.
Riomaggiore by night; tall buidlings














Lemon anchovies; the local (sweet, floral) white wines really do complement these
flavors; Vicki had the pasta/pesto thing, nothing to look at; perhaps because the
pesto itself was unremarkable; and disappointing

















By day, the restaurant at which we dined by night














Outside the restaurant, a line of boats waiting to be launched into the tiny marina















Rigamarole by day
















Cinque Terre: Vernazza

We had been near the Cinque Terre a couple times, but we had never done it. Well, this time we did it, although, due to poor planning, poor weather, poor judgment, etc., it was not among our most elegant and efficient visits. But we did it, partly on Saturday and Saturday night, and partly on Monday, after the torrential rains (which closed all the footpaths) had finished. We took the Sestre Levante train from La Spezia to Vernazza, which Vicki had read was the best of the five little towns, with the best hiking path leading from it to the fifth of the towns, Monterosso. Other parts of the trail system have been closed for some time now, after the floods of October, 2011. Anyhow, we got to Vernazza, looked around a bit, and then headed for the trail.
Up on the trail, looking at great sea caves just out of the town














Church and castle verticals


















Some of the flood damage from 2011 remains; the trail led
right by this sad and distressing instance















Up higher, the little monorail train that services the vineyards














Looking back to Vernazza; what you can't see is the throng
of American college students; thousands; the only Italian
we heard this day was in the parish church at Vernazza (and
it may have been pre-Italian)














We got to a high point and an overlook; in the distance you
can see Monterosso, our goal; at this point, however, we
decided not to go the distance...heat, humidity, mosquitoes,
another mountain to climb, and descend; so we descended
back to Vernazza


















No complaints about the trail, however
















Vernazza street scene


















Actual fishing boat in the marina














Interesting sea caves across the harbor

Wednesday, October 2, 2013

La Spezia

The camper sosta, with about twenty rigs, was on the south side of harbor, but easily connected to the city center via a 15 minute bus ride. La Spezia is a famous and busy port, one of the major ports of the Italian navy in the day. The old city is quite attractive and much more than merely a terminus of the Cinque Terre. Saturday I took the bus in to explore and ascertain schedules and costs, etc., of the trip to the very famous Five Lands.
Many beautiful old buildings














Detail


















Cathedral














One part of the massive indoor market














Garibaldi rides again, in the pretty park by the harbor














Fisherperson stuff everywhere














Everywhere














Every Italian town has one of these, but we are getting closer to the center now...















Sepulchre of St. Camembert
Walking by a smidgeon of the port area
























A bit of the big camper sosta area