Sunday, August 23, 2009

Ely Cathedral

Ely Cathedral exterior. There were so many
interesting aspects of this cathedral, I'll spare
you the usual views of rose windows, organs,
screens, etc.The cathedral was begun in the
late 11th century. Ely is northeast of
Cambridge.
Interior; it is a large cathedral. The ceiling is
painted, scenes from the life and background
of Jesus, covering the nave.





















There is a maze at the west entrance.

Note the entwined arches, seen throughout the building;

kind of a Celtic allusion?
The abbey was founded by Saint Etheldreda, a 7th century
Anglo-Saxon queen. It became such a popular pilgrimage
site, that the bishop, in the 13th century, decided to add on
a "lady hall" to accommodate the pilgrims. But building the
lady hall undermined the foundation of the crossing, and
the huge tower, right at the center of the building, collapsed.
(Ely is in the Fens, high water table, marshy, even today in
places.) The crossing tower was rebuilt as an octagon, the
only of its kind.




















Looking up at octagonal crossing from nave
Looking up into octagon, many stories above
Looking up into octagon, many stories above
One pretty good window
The lady hall, eventually built in the 14th century,
adjoined the north transept.
Fan vaulting in the Lady Hall
Interior of the lady hall.
The contemporary statue of the Virgin,
unveiled in 2000 (the Prince of Wales was
present), was derived from the Shreck
movies, we think.
Ely Cathedral also houses the national stained glass museum, which we toured...many informative exhibits on history, techniques, interpretation.

Sutton Who?

Sutton Hoo is a major Anglo-Saxon (pre-Viking) ship burial, widely thought to be the burial site of Raedwald, a 7th century king who, according to Bede, united much of England. (A hoo is a high point; also a Seuss character). Although the area was known to be a pre-Christian burial site, the nature and dimensions of Sutton Hoo, along with its treasury, were not discovered until 1939. The excavation was ordered by the landowner, Mrs. Pretty (wife of Col. Pretty)(ISIANMTU), and done primarily by an amateur but fairly accomplished archaeologist. Alas, we were not overwhelmed by the museum, although the walking tour was excellent. Maybe we've seen enough ship burials now. But the Anglo- angle was interesting. The Roman army left Britain in 410, and the void they left was filled in by the Anglo-Saxons (today's Denmark, Holland, north Germany), before the Vikings proper, and well before the Normans.


Mrs. Pretty's house and mound #2
 
The mounds as they look now
 
The ship stretched from one stake to the other, large enough for forty men

The river Deben, which the mounds overlook
 
Museum exhibit of a burial site

Lavenham


High street in Lavenham

de Vere House; stone, brick, half-timbered
 
de Vere door moulding detail; hmmmmm...that de Vere? I thought they were from Oxford...
 Leaning houses
 
A really bad case

Lavenham was once an important wool center, but declined after the Reformation. Everything, including war and developers, passed it by. There remain some 300 registered medeival/renaissance buildings, mostly half-timbered types, many about to fall over but for their neighbors leaning back into them.

Wimpole Estate


Wimpole Estate, frontal view

Garden

The Capability Brown garden view, complete with "folly"

We toured just a bit of East Anglia, starting with the Wimpole Estate, one of the great 18th century houses owned by the National Trust. They don't permit pix inside, so all you'll see are the exterior shots. But they're not bad.

Saturday, August 22, 2009

King's Chapel


The big draw in Cambridge, other than the university, is King's Chapel; not a cathedral, just a college chapel, but a major political statement, finished off by Henry VIII; begun a century earlier as a rather different sort of statement

West towers
 
West windows
 
What is extraordinary about King's is the fan vaulting, ordered personally by Henry, 2000 tons of it literally hanging from the roofing structure above via a sort of reverse arch system, most extensive in England
Vaulting close-up; capstones weigh a ton each

There is also Rubens' Adoration of the Magi, the altar piece
But the place is mostly about Henry, and His Church
 
And, look closely, "RA," Regina Anne (as in Boleyn)

Cambridge

We spent the equivalent of a couple days walking, wandering, shoppping, punting, around Cambridge. Nice place. Big-time traffic problems.
Punting on the Cam (punting on the Cam, we
shall go rejoicing, punting on the Cam)

King's Chapel and a bit of Trinity College


A courtyard in Trinity

Darwin house
 

Famous sundials (Queen's College, I think)

A Bridge of Sighs (so known, locally; something about exams)

St. John's College, the prettiest of them, but, alas, mostly Victorian age




Friday, August 21, 2009

Sallie B

I had no idea what a treat it was to see this aircraft in flight until I spoke with a member of the Sallie B Association who told me she'd logged only 9 minutes airborne in the past year...engine trouble, difficulty of repair in a large 66-year old plane.
Pride of place at Duxford clearly goes to the B-17G Flying Fortress Sallie B

Take-off from Duxford


What must have been a familiar sight here, 65 years ago, a Flying Fort banking
low over the East Anglia countryside
 

Flying over Bar Hill, on approach
 

Full view

Tail view
 

Apparently the Sallie B has been a movie star as well
 

From the American Hangar, US 8th and 9th Air Force bases in southeastern
England, June 6, 1944; you get to be proud to be a Yank, here
 



Duxford

This was just a normal weekend at Duxford; no air-show. But historic planes were flying everywhere, DeHavilland Dragon Rapides, Tiger Moths, an F86 Sabre Jet, Hurricanes, Spitfires, and the B-17...next post. In Hangar 2 they are restoring dozens of planes, including some rare creatures, a Heinkel-Jaeger bomber, Me109s, a Storch. And there are scores more on display, most intact, some, like a Zero, just a fuselage or wing. Amazing place.

The Imperial War Museum at Duxford is an unbelieveable place: an old RAF/8th
Air Force base, restored, with six or more giant hangars of aircraft, chronicling
British aviation, the Battle of Britain, and WWII.


There are American warplanes all over Duxford, many restored to flying condition,
but the American Hangar features three or four dozen American warbirds, all the way
from the Sopwith Camel to the F-15 
Not least is a TBM Avenger torpedo bomber, made up to look like George Bush's
"Barbara"
 

The combat information center at Duxford has been restored to 1940; Duxford was
base to Douglas Bader's RAF squadron 242; Bader, a double-amputee after a flying
accident in the 30s, convinced the RAF he could still fly, rose to lead the 242th,
evenutally was shot down over Germany, a POW, then escaped.... 
A Hawker Hurricane, the work-horse of the Battle of Britain, approaches




I confess I did pause to enjoy a warm [sic] one, a Spitfire,
"The Bottle of Britain"
 



African Swallows

These are (click to enlarge) African swallows, which do migrate, the farmer at
Highfield said, from North Africa




















S #1: It's not a question of where he grips it! It's a simple question of weight ratios! A five ounce bird could not carry a one pound coconut.
A: Well, it doesn't matter. Will you go and tell your master that Arthur from the Court of Camelot is here.
S #1: Listen. In order to maintain air-speed velocity, a swallow needs to beat its wings forty-three times every second, right?
A: Please!
S #1: Am I right?
A: I'm not interested!
S #2: It could be carried by an African swallow!
S #1: Oh, yeah, an African swallow maybe, but not a European swallow. That's my point.
S #2: Oh, yeah, I agree with that.
A: Will you ask your master if he wants to join my court at Camelot?!
S #1: But then of course a-- African swallows are non-migratory.
S #2: Oh, yeah...
S #1: So they couldn't bring a coconut back anyway...