Monday, February 16, 2015

Snowmobiling The Continental Divide Trail, 2

We'd hoped Saturday night's snowfall would have melted off our solar panels Sunday: not so. And we'd assumed our generator would start right up despite the -1 degree temperature last night: also not so. Our batteries were getting close to 50%. We're thinking maybe it's time to go to a campground and charge up. Except there aren't any campgrounds open this time of the year in Wyoming. At length, however, the generator decided to cooperate, and I spent an hour up on our telescoping ladder scraping snow and ice off the solar panels. By noon, all was well, the batteries had already transitioned from bulk to absorb, and the temperature outside had risen to 29. Life is good.

We suited up and headed out for another 50-mile ride, generally south and east of Togwotee Pass, toward Lava Lodge, looking for both savage and regular campsites. Not much success, except in the savage department. The ride back, on the CDT, was especially bumpy and unpleasant. But the scenery again was great.
More of the Absarokas, the great range that links Wyoming
and Montana
















Thus















And thus















And thus















And a distant view of the Winds, to the south















Among the charms of these rides are the welcoming ranches/
lodges tucked away along the trails, often accessible primarily
by snowmobile this time of year
















Fixer-upper department: abandoned yurt

And more mountain scenery

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Snowmobiling The Continental Divide Trail, 1

We had snowmobiled the CDT on several occasions in earlier years, mostly from Ashton, ID--a very long ride--but also from where we are now, Togwotee Pass, in WY. It was a long drive from where we lived, Missoula, MT, but worth it every time, usually the whole spring break. The CDT is a network of trails, 600 miles of them, generally northwest and astride the Wind River Mountains. It is simply the best of all snow trail systems, most scenic, best served, most extensive and varied. And, even in this low-snow year here in the Rockies, there is a ton of snow, especially from where we are parked at 8,500 feet. We did a 50 mile ride today, mostly west and south of the Pass, and mostly gawking at the unsurpassed scenery.
It snowed here last night, a couple inches, first snowfall we have
seen on this campaign...
















Mt. Moran, northernmost of the big Teton peaks















South, Middle, and Grand Tetons (and Teewinot)















Another view















And another, with Jackson Lake in there too; they're
captivating, even at this distance















A few hours later, and back toward the east, a bit of the
Absaroka range
















Step pyramid in the Absarokas?!








Return To Jackson, WY

Saturday morning, Valentines' Day, we motored up the Snake River highway to Jackson, WY: our old friend, Jackson, which we visited first in 1970, and to which we have returned many times, in all seasons, for hiking, backpacking, climbing, rafting, snowmobiling, and more. We fell in love with the place then, and more than once considered moving there, abandoning careers, etc., for different lifestyles. Fortunately, we didn't. Now the place is somewhat less lovable; actually, a lot less lovable. Not to mention affordable. But that's mostly just the town and the people that bought the place up in the 80s and later. Aspenization, some call it. Now we just pass through in a few hours, look for a few old haunts, entertain a few of the good memories, and move on. The economy doesn't need any stimulation. It does need snow, however.
Major location for Christie's, Sotheby's, etc.





















Lunch at the new Bubba's, now owned by one of Jackson's
restaurant combines, across the highway from its original
location; worst pulled port ever, oozing grease...

















Local landmark, great tobacco shop















Wort Hotel, famous landmark...















Another famous landmark, a gateway to the city square...the
National Elk Refuge is not far away; not pictured: urban elk
















Another famous landmark, the Million Dollar Cowboy Bar;
note Ferrari cruising past
















One of the places that always cracks me up, the ski equipment
room in the thrift shoppe of the Episcopal Church of St. Matthew/
Mark/Luke/John; note crutches, a cautionary touch

















Teton Mountaineering, where we have cheerfully
dropped a few coins




















Does your Albertsons' sell bear spray? it's spring conditions
here, and they are coming out of their dens, hungry
















After a few hours of shopping, eating, and reminiscentia, we
are over the hill and round the bend, for a first close view of
the Tetons

















August 8, 1972, my first ascent















An hour later, past Moose and Moran, we are camped at a
snowmobile parking lot just short of Togwotee Pass, enjoying
a great Teton sunset











Another Day's Sledding Near Alpine, WY

Friday we rode another 80-some miles, first over on the loop to the McCain guard cabin, where we had lunch and built a couple snow-persons for Penelope. See video, later. Then we did more of the Grey River trail, out to the Box Y ranch, said to be the nation's most remotely-located resort, for hot chocolate and hot apple cider; and $5 of gasoline—one gallon. The gasoline turned out to be a good idea: filling up the next day in Jackson revealed it would have been very close getting back to the parking lot. Must remember: 10 gallons=184 miles. On the way back we took a variant off the river trail. It looked innocent enough on the map, but in reality took us up 3,000 feet on twisty narrow trails and into some relatively deep snow. The views of both the Salt River and Wyoming ranges were stunning. I would have enjoyed them more had the gas tank needle not been stuck mostly on empty. But we got back safe and sound, trailered the Blue Wanderer (now so christened), and enjoyed a BBQ ribs dinner.
Vicinity of the McCain cabin















Very small snow-person for P; in the video, to be added later,
Vicki builds a slightly larger one; the snow was a month old,
granular, almost of snow-cone consistency

















Fly-over country















Thirty miles later, we are at the Box Y ranch/resort















Thus



















With its superb collection of dead thangs and much other
Wyomingiana; nice folks
















Among the views from the C variant; up much higher than it
looks...about 8,000 feet

Saturday, February 14, 2015

Alpine, Wyoming: The Grey River Trails In the Wyoming Range

[We resume our normal blogging...]

Our return to snow country took two days, and then an extra day for me to recover from a malady I'd contracted in California—the usual wintry mix of sore throat, congestion, cough, chills and aches...fortunately it was only a three-day variety. The extra day was in Idaho Falls, where we later retrieved our trailer and snowmobile. Thanks, again, Mr. Walton. After analyzing entrails, tea leaves, The Weather Channel, and a call to the Fremont (Idaho) County C of C, we decided to head to higher ground, namely, Wyoming, and reportedly decent snow on the Grey River trails near Alpine. Alpine and the Wyoming Range east of there were one of our favorite places in earlier snowmobiling years, and although the snow level was just barely OK now, we were able to do some of our favorite rides again, including the 100 mile round-trip to the Blind Bull Hut and on to the Sherman guard station and its view of Wyoming's great mountain range, the Winds. Hopefully we'll see more of them in coming days.  
In the Walmart fly-fishing shop (!) in Idaho Falls; tells you a bit
about Idahoans...
















And in an Idaho Falls truck stop, a (real) Grumman Avenger
dives toward Japanese carriers...not a very realistic scene, since
the Avenger was a torpedo bomber...but appreciated
nonetheless...

















The parking lot at the Grey River outlet, near Alpine; by
Friday, the place was totally packed
















Suburban Alpine















Ouch!















Scenery along the Grey River














Ditto; there are just a few mansions along the way; note hobbit/
snowmobile gate; most all of the area is Bridger National Forest
















Arrival, at 8,600 feet, at the Sweetwater Snowpokes' Blind
Bull warming hut, apparently new and improved
















Same functional decor















Snowmobilers are perhaps not best known for their political
correctness
















The hut's surroundings















Riding further east, up to 9,000 feet perhaps, and then down
to the Sherman opening, the Green River valley, and the
distant Wind River range

















Gannett Peak there left of middle, Wyoming's highest















The Winds are 120 miles of granite, snow and ice, great lakes
and rivers and streams, and forests...nearly all of it inaccessible
and protected...still one of the West's better kept secrets

















High country...riding back after a really good day


Monday, February 9, 2015

Extended Interlude

During evenings at West Yellowstone we talked a good bit about future plans and travels, and both agreed we wanted to return to Europe earlier than present scenarios permitted (not until 2016). We had already discussed at some length the kind of vehicle we wanted for future European travels, and we found a likely candidate right in Bozeman, a few hours' drive away. So we took an administrative day, actually two, and exploring the Bozeman short Sprinter, converted for camping and touring, only reinforced our resolve to return to Europe sooner than later. That evening, while searching for comparables in order to make an offer, I came across another Sprinter, this time a Roadtrek “Agile” conversion, very similar to but smaller than what we had in Europe in 2009-2013 (the Grey Wanderer). 

Alas, it was in northern CA, a thousand miles away. But the mileage and condition were sufficiently compelling that we dropped our snowmobiling adventures temporarily, literally dropped the trailer and snowmobile off at a storage center in Idaho Falls, and sped back to CA, first to Menlo Park, and then north, where we purchased the new (to us) vehicle. Now, a week later, it is in storage in CA, and we are back in the Bigfoot, and back in Idaho, and later Wyoming and Montana, looking for snow this warm and dry winter in the Rockies.

OK, so we're crazy. Friends and relatives already know this. But, it's a logical conclusion for people who love touring Europe (and other places) as much as the USA, and who like longer-term moving around, in, um, relative comfort.

Anyhow, after the snow gives out in the Rockies, we'll be back in CA, making a variety of alterations and additions to the Gray Wanderer (better than Grey Wanderer 2.0), readying the Bigfoot for four months' storage, and then heading east, for Lexi's graduation, and to ship the new European camper to Antwerp for three summer months in Europe, primarily France. We'll keep it in Europe and use it as often as we can in the fair seasons, splitting time between it and the Bigfoot for North American adventures.
As we left, West Yellowstone was gearing up for SnoWest's
big gathering--hundreds of trailers and snowmobiles coverging
on this little place, which is, really, the center of western
snowmobiling

















Just in case you've ever wondered what a snowmobile confab
looks like...
















The return to Middle California at least afforded an opportunity
to see Princess P again, here telling Grandma she "shall not pass"
















And to celebrate Rebecca's birthday















Vicki, with the Gray Wanderer















The morning of our return to snow country...P tries on Grandma's
snowmobile helmet