Saturday, May 18, 2019

Vernante, The Town

I can never get enough of Italy. But then I can never get enough of France. (Or Spain, or Portugal...). There was still much more of Italy to see, but then we have an engagement, a rendezvous, in France, and needed to move on. We drove up near the top of Lago Maggiore and then crossed over and dropped down by Lago Orta and drove its length, south, stopping for May Day parades in a couple towns. Some years ago we did a couple days and a hike in the Maritime Alps and had learned of an easy, if obscure pass that takes you from the Italian Maritimes down to France, then back into Italy and the beginning of its Riviera, but eventually to Menton and the Cote d'Azur. So after Orta we drove across the great plain, the white Alps always in view on our right, past Torino, past Cuneo, and up toward the Col de Tende and the way to France. After a day of driving, a large parcheggio  in Vernante, right on the river, beckoned, and we stopped there, in the company of some other campers, with enough daylight left to explore the little town.
Nice setting; the Alps still way too cold and snowy for us to consider; quel dommage

Walking en route to a sporting goods outlet at
the far end of town...a green man  reminiscent of
ours...


Pelerin showing leg

And back the main old street, past a bar displaying the old
practice of keeping your prized liquor  under lock and key

Old fortress ruins above, Tourusela, 13th century, guarding the pass





























































Interesting town church

With a really nice model

Great grandma playing kick ball with great grand-daughter

Street scene

Next morning we were off to the pass, stopping for a junque/collectible store
we had remembered from the previous crossing; it was much nicer then (see
http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/2013/10/across-mountains-and-back-again.html)

Sadly, now, it was just junk

The Col de Tende pass nowadays is a 3km tunnel, one of two in this part of the
world, that is, connecting Italy and France; this one is one-way, with a
circulation alternee', and not so nicely furnished as the Mont Blanc tunnel; but
it works, and there is little traffic



Monday, May 13, 2019

Isola Bella, Seconda

Continuing our visit to the Borromeo Islands, Lago Maggiore, Isola Bella
The whole downstairs is done in this grotto thing

Model of a Venetian ceremonial galley

Two or three rooms of this would have been OK, but it just went on and on....

Helpful model of another Borromeo property that we didn't visit

Ancient tower staircase connecting the floors

More nice stuff

In the Hall of Mirrors...wait, no....

"I can't give you anything but love, Baby..."

Big tree, a camphor; now in the formal garden

More Chinese white peacocks

More azaleas and everything else in bloom

I think this is what is meant by Italianate

Still, the plants are nice


Us, there

Very Italianate

"Jeez such a headache"

Other bit of the garden

Parthian shot as our vessel plies its way back to Stresa

Isola Bella, Prima

The Borromeo family, whose 13th century patriarch was a Ghibelline and was decapitated by the Guelphs (think: Ned Stark), have owned the Borromeo Islands since the 15th century. After the Guelph/Ghibelline thing and their removal to Milan, they got into banking, international banking, and, of course, affairs of the Church. Over the centuries, the Borromeos have included seven cardinals, a saint, numerous bishops, an archbishop, and probably scores of counts, princes, dukes, and what have you.  The current Borromeos still own the islands (and more) and show up now and then for  visits. Just FYI. Isola Bella is the larger of the two isles, with the larger palace and the more formal Italianate gardens. Alas, I took lots of pix, but have whittled them down to just two short (for me) posts.
Someone else's photo; Isola Bella is supposed to look like a ship in the lake, the
palace at the bow, the gardens extending from amidships to the stern; so to speak;
Avast! 

Entry hall

The place is studded with art, though no titanic biggies; lots of "workshop of ..."
which is what you call it when you discover you've been had

This said to be a Quentin Massys St. Jerome; no kitty!

Nice furnishings throughout; "Jeez I've got a headache"

Throne Room; throne; when I was a teenager, these terms always drew hysterical
laughter

His/her bedrooms

German tour bus group admiring nice blue glass collection

Now in the tall formal hall

With a helpful model

Music room

Napoleon slept here; in this bed; en route to conquering
Italy he and a small party dropped in for a visit; allegedly
trashed the place, even went hunting peacocks on Isola
Madre; never ever got along real well with nobility

View south down the lake

More nice art, furnishings

Another big hall

Now we're downstairs looking at marionettes and such; these people were really
into puppetry

Watteau's Pierrot (look it up)
Daenrys Targaryen rides again