From the Capitolium area Google Maps guided us to the Basilica of St. Sernin, a church we had visited in 2013, but were not so taken with: not Gothic. Since 2013, we have come to find Romanesque churches to be of considerable interest...their greater age than Gothics, the lack of light good for contemplation, thick walls good for defense (times were tough), far greater likelihood of seeing the goofy, occasionally obscene Medieval sculpture I favor, and so on. St. Sernin did not disappoint, except in the obscene sculpture department.
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The tower rises from the crossing, is Romanesque until the 4th tier, then, with the spire, Gothic; nobody's perfect |
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Helpful illustration: cruciform, extraordinary size, perhaps only the abbey church at Cluny (now gone) was larger; combination stone and red brick from the east, became more brick than stone as construction proceeded to the west... |
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West portal tympanum: Ascension; we'll come back to the sculpture later |
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Nave view: Romanesque indeed |
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Elevation; not a pointy thing in sight |
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As with so many of the Romanesque churches we've seen (Autun, Vezelay, etc.), the sculptural program, especially the capitals, always impresses and confounds: here, the Holy Goats, framed by depictions of the Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch |
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Seriously, the interior of this church is fairly overwhelming, especially in its age |
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The altar consecrated in 1096 by Pope Urban II; Himself |
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Not sure when the Holy Cabana was consecrated |
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Always stern-looking Mandorla pose |
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Overwhelming view up into the crossing area |
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Huge old frescoes all around |
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Ceiling fresco, Mystic Lamb, Byzantine-looking to us |
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Cain bonking Abel? Lots of Biblical figures bonked each other |
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Among the organs |
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Helpful chronology |
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It's pretty much always been a Camino church
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Longer term resident peregrino |
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Now for some of the exterior sculpture, again, mostly capitals...Massacre of the Innocents |
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King David playin' |
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Shepherds killing lions |
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Hand-holding Expulsion; male angel showing solidarity with Adam? |
1 comment:
Oh, my! Such interesting carvings and paintings.
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