As promised, we were back in the Latin Quarter next day, for lunch at the Bouillon Racine and a walk in the Jardin des Plantes. Bouillons began in the mid-19th century as quick, cheap, and simple eateries for working stiffs, and are regarded by some as the first chain restaurants: in the later 1800s, Paris had some 250 bouillons, many owned by the same person or group. As Art Nouveau developed, some of the bouillons morphed into fancier type restaurants. A look at historical photographs from the era suggests that the "workingmen" that frequented these later bouillons are best contrasted with non-workingmen, that is, aristocrats. So also the decor. They were people who worked, but also wore fine clothes and could afford fine food in fine surroundings. Several of the surviving few Belle Epoche bouillons are listed national monuments. Thus the Bouillon Racine on Rue Racine, originally the Grand Bouillon Camille Chartier in 1906. The place catches your eye from the street, and, thanks to a thorough restoration by the Compagnons du Tour de France in 1996, it is even better inside. The food was great, and quite reasonable, by the way, but that's not why you go there.
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Bouillon Racine |
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My zucchini and basil gazpacho |
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And sole muniere over baby leeks, etc. |
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Her pork ribs and veggies; not pictured: her creme brulee |
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The ceiling above us |
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Heading upstairs |
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Bar downstairs |
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Downstairs dining |
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Incredible place |
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Drunk with Belle Epoche art and architecture, and fine food, we waddled on to our secondary target of the day, the Jardin des Plantes, Paris' botanical garden and zoo; also natural history museum and more |
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More history of science, botany and zoology; in monuments |
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Quite a lot there |
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Entrance to the Menagerie, zoo and enormous greenhouses |
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But we just strolled the Jardin, having had enough intensity for the day |
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Flora impudica (impudent flower) |
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Fall color in full swing |
2 comments:
Looks like a nice lunch. I'd vote for the creme brulee anytime!
WOW. That restaurant is just stunning!! Adding to my Paris list...
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