Tuesday, July 27, 2021

Arrival In London

The morning of July 6th we drove on to the rental car place near Heathrow, debarked, and then embarked on the Uber to Handel St., Bloomsbury, WC1, and our apartment there. The property manager met us, showed us around, and we then spent the rest of the day and next unpacking, moving in, and familiarizing ourselves with the appliances, amenities, neighborhood, and so on. We'll be here through August.

Other than the attractive COVID-era price of this updated one-bedroom Georgian flat, first floor, the location is what sold us. We're about 4 blocks either way between the British Museum and the British Library. The National Gallery and Covent Garden are perhaps a 30 minute walk. The Russell Square tube station is two blocks away; St. Pancras/Kings Cross four blocks. We are in the center of Bloomsbury, university buildings all around, parks all around, monuments and plaques all around, restaurants and pubs all around, quiet, tree-lined, but with a Waitrose and a Boots and such just down the street. The building dates from the 1790s, completely re-done in Victorian times, then again in the late 1900s. I have never been a fan of Handel, but, among the pieces in my musical repertoire of the 1960s was one of his oboe concertos. The hautbois was very big in the 18th century; not so much now. Vicki has always liked the "Hallelujah Chorus" from The Messiah. There is a small bust of Handel on the mantel, and a museum around the corner we have yet to visit has a section devoted to him. Handel, was kappellmeister to Prince George, Elector of Hanover, who in 1714 became George I. But of course it's not as simple as that.

We have been here three weeks. After the initial flurry and blitz of sightseeing, we have settled into a more reasonable routine, trying to do a major site every other day or so, minor walks daily, just resting and doing chores the rest of the time. The weather's a factor, also: too hot some days, too wet others. After thirteen years of retirement, we still have difficulty switching from tourist on-the-go mode to just-living-there mode. It's hard to do in a place like central London, where every block has something of cultural, historic, scenic, or other interest. But we're trying. In the three weeks we've been here we've visited the British Museum (three times), the National Gallery, Hampton Court, Kew Royal Botanical Gardens, the London Museum, Tate Britain, St. Paul's, Covent Garden, Oxford St., and done a number of neighborhood walks. 

Extraterrestrial alien from outer space view

Closer up; the turquoise blip near the bottom is the British
Museum

Handel St.
















































Sunday, July 25, 2021

Stonehenge, 2021

Our last stop before returning the rental car to Hertz was Stonehenge, which we hadn't visited since 2013, but had seen many times before. During COVID, the timed-entry tickets render the place relatively deserted, rather than over-run as in pre-COVID days, despite the actual edifice being outdoors. Still, with the new, improved English Heritage visitor center, gift shop, restaurant, shuttle, etc., it's not entirely an outdoor experience. But another great visit.

New (to us) visitor center



Village depicting how they (we) lived three or four millennia ago

How they moved the megaliths (some on rafts over many miles);
just considering the labor involved in felling and limbing trees 
for the roller logs always knocks me out; all the tools were either stones
or bones

Anyway, many helpful, informative exhibits, some traditional,
some multi-media...

English Heritage have done a fine job in limiting traffic and
access to the monument, except for having to leave one unpaved
access road open for the locals; RVers have discovered it and
exploited the opening...I guess we'd be there but for not having
a European camper anymore (sigh)



Way back in 2013, I thought I'd never again get a picture of
Stonehenge without the masses; not a problem this day; when we
first visited in 1979, you could walk among the stones and touch
them; not any more, since the 80s...unless you want to pay a
premium for an early or late privileged entrance 

Us, there


Get Thee To A Nunney

Our course turned back east, our London apartment rental beginning in two days. Happily, the course was adjusted to include Nunney, the home of Vicki's ancestral castle ruins. 

Nunney castle and moat; built by John de la Mare in the 14th; 
modeled on the Bastille or other French castles, which he must
have seen during his various travels in France during the Hundred
Years War

Less a castle than a fortified residence; bought by wealthy London
resident Richard Prater in the 16th; attacked and damaged by the
Parliamentarians but never slighted; remained in use for a couple
centuries more but then declined in disuse, and its fallen stones
taken by villagers; came to English Heritage nearly a century ago

Vicki is descended from the Praters on her father's side; we
actually attended a Prater (now Prather) reunion in Texas back
in the 80s; the original Prater (Praetor?) is said to have come
over from Normandy in 1066
Nunney parish church; older foundations, etc.
but re-done in the 19th c.
Very old effigies of John de la Mare (top) and Mr. and Mrs. Prater


Saturday, July 24, 2021

Wells Cathedral, 2021

Wells is probably our favorite English cathedral: begun in the 12th century, very early Gothic, the amazing 14th century scissors arches that saved the building, the best west facade in England, maybe north of the Alps, with its 300 sculpted figures, and enough quirks to keep you amused the whole day; and so on. We had 4 days left on our rental, the run of the island, and this was the one place we really wanted to see again.

Nearing Wells (close to Bath), Glastonbury Tor
in the distance; everything's pretty close together
out here
























Working on the west facade; see any of my several previous
posts (search "Wells" in the search box) for pix

Wells is normally not crowded, but this time it was nearly
deserted; and silent: the making of documentary video
was underway 

First sight of the scissors arch is something I'll 
never forget; you walk in, expecting to find a nice
typical Medieval cathedral and then see the arch
and think: that's not Medieval! That's not even...
modern...that's contemporary architecture! But,
no, after the 1275 earthquake, the massive central
tower was subsiding, and three of these "scissors"
arches were built to buttress the tower...in the 1340s!
Utterly singular; and beautiful


Even the 13th century clock, oldest and best,
had been turn off to accommodate the filming
underway

Because of COVID, the wonderful chapter house
was closed

North aisle

Chancel glass; wonderful 13th century


Oldest cope chest

And some really old tombs...1060 this guy; seeing burials this
old is quite rare, especially this well preserved

And this one 999

Baptismal font from earlier Romanesque church

Patron saint of dentists, hygienists, oral surgeons

Cloister

Sir David Suchet, pretty famous actor, doing the documentary

Maybe convertible pants aren't so unfashionable
after all

Really old door








































































































































































A lot of things at Wells are old


We walked a bit of the Bishop's palace grounds





































Palace guard attempting to train birds to pull a string to ring a
bell...for a treat
Looking back to the cathedral


Bishop's palace moat

In the pretty little town, something that reminded
us of the many plague monuments we saw in central
and eastern Europe

Beautiful Wells


Oxford, 2021, Very Briefly

Independence Day we spent getting to Oxford, lunch there and a little sightseeing, and then ever onward toward our main goal, Wells. 


Harry Potter stores rule High Street, Main Street, Broad Street,
etc.; important sets, scenes for the Potter movies were shot here


In the Old Market



Our favorite restaurant in Oxford is Chiang Mai--
thank you, Rebecca--wait a second, didn't we go to
cooking school in Chiang Mai?

Restaurant menu with a building history, and an
interesting history too (click to enlarge)

Satay

Tom Yum, my favorite

Her pad thai

Best coconut ice cream anywhere, served in a coconut shell

Meanwhile, back on the street

Important setting from Harry Potter, or perhaps Lion, Witch, and
Wardrobe
, or possibly Shadowlands; people were taking pix of it

Radcliffe Camera

Sunday afternoon, people getting out a bit, although still mostly
masked and distanced

T. E. Lawrence's actual garb, helping lead the Arab
uprising in 1916-1918; he was a student at Jesus
College, Oxford; we're in the Ashmolean Museum,
which is mostly about the exploits of Oxford
faculty and the wealth and acquisitiveness of its
alumni


Everyone masked here too

St. Nicholas strafing a mermaid, Bicci of Lorenzo, early 15th century
Still my Ashmolean favorite, Ucello's Hunt in the Forest
Typical Ashmolean scene

In the music room

Never miss a Ghilandaio, even a little one