Friday, October 18, 2013

Siena Cathedral, 2013

It is large, old, historic, has interesting architecture, the best of all cathedral floors, and a great deal of world-class art. Plus it's atmospheric, visceral even, one of those special places, no matter how crowded. Our 2011 posts were http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/siena-duomo.html, and http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/but-wait-theres-more-siena-duomo-museum.html.
Facade; Gothic; Zebraesque...


















The west window, a highly unusual Last Supper














The best thing about this visit was that the entire floor--all
of it in-laid Medieval/Renaissance marble marquetry--was,
this day, uncovered; here a zodiac
















One of the complete set of Sybils that cover
the outer edges of the floor: the dog is
saying "Let's us canines and felines be
friends, now and forevermore"; the cat is
saying "Sure, Fido, just as soon as I scratch
your eyes out"






















Another, um, mythological scene














And another














A battle scene: "only a flesh wound!"














Absalom volunteering for pike target practice; seriously,
every square inch of the floor is covered in these gorgeous
marbles














The great crossing dome
















The Pisanos' monumental pulpit


















In the starboard chapel, Bernini's exquisite
Mary Magdalen; same ecstatic pose as
the opposite St. Jerome; but showing lots
more leg





















In the apse now, showing the Virtues; here, Temperance (just
having one); wait, no, Vicki says this was Prudence















Choir; incredible illusionary woodwork...














Thus, for example


















A favorite perspective at Siena, at the crossing, by the pulpit,
looking up to the dome














Ceiling of the Piccolomini Library















With its dozen or so huge, colorful, detailed
frescoes of the life of Cardinal Piccolomini, later
Pope Pius II, by Pinturrichio; early 16th
















Siena, 2013

It's difficult to leave Florence, but our clock is running down, and we wanted to ensure plenty of time for Rome and all the wonderful places on the Bay of Naples. So we decamped and headed for Siena, Florence's great rival in days of yore, a place we visited in 2011 (http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/siena.html), and earlier too. Our goal was simply to walk around and take in the historical center, then to visit the great cathedral with all its art.
In the great central piazza














Thus; we skipped a great deal, satisfied with our 2011 visit














Including the Baptistry and its Donatellos, et al.


















And the Duomo Museum (are they returning to work on the
14th century expansion plans?!) with 















Duccio's Maesta and other masterpieces














Content to take in sights en route to and from the Duomo














Thus

Florence Out-takes, 2013

You walk around town for a week (we did take one administrative day, for laundry, provisions, rest) and you see a few curiosities and other things that don't quite fit the, um, narrative...
They'll be back in 2014


















Probably not a case of "beans in their ears"














Ponte Vecchio gold shop model of the Ponte Vecchio














Florence has many 12th and 13th century
towers; often they're just adjoined to another,
modern building




















Darwine t-shirt














Watchdog
At the Uffizi, Vicki said get a picture of the
police in their funny uniforms; so I asked
these two to pose




















Shoe store near San Lorenzo














The contagion spreads...














For ablutions?














The old-fashioned way...nice stuff too














Not so nice, at an up-scale shop


















Perfect parallel parking prize of the day














The antipasti station at Antico Ristoro di Cambi














A vacant building papered in phony dollar bills--a protest
again (US) capitalism, we wondered?















Of course there was a running event going on one of the
days we were there















A great year...


















Always in style



















Coat of arms of the Bottiglia family














We camped at Florence Park Scandicci, 241 Via di Scandicci;
12 euros a night; when you turn down the alley, turn right,
ignoring the nice young man who will tell you it's for storage
only and enticing you to his sosta, same everything, for
20 euros a night; bus #6 runs 3 or 4 times an hour and gets
you to centro storico in 12-15 minutes

Santa Croce, 2013

Our last big stop in Florence was Santa Croce, about which we blogged in 2011 at http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/san-croce.html. Here are just a few additional items.
Santa Croce from the Duomo














A better shot of the 14th century Donatello
Crucifixion that scared people



















Yes, Santa Croce is the one that is sort of the national
pantheon of heroes...















Stern view, beautifully-painted timbered roof;
note the cat-walk that goes all the way around



















Bardi Chapel, Giotto, early 14th


















Agnolo Gaddi's late 14th frescoes of The Finding of the True
Cross are still being worked on, but promise to be brilliant
when done
















Correction department, again: a Donatello
Annunciation; not Donatellos tomb



















In the Brunellechi-designed Pazzi Chapel; more harmony,
geometry, pietra serena, etc.















Some of the ceiling, including della Robbias of the Evangelists














And what remains, after the 1966 floods, of Santa Croce's
July 4, 1442, skies...















Double-decker cloister, designed by
Brunelleschi



















In the refectory, Taddeo Gaddi's Last Supper and Crucifixion
Tree

Spanish Chapel, 2013

In 2011, I incorporated a number of pix from the Spanish Chapel in the Santa Maria Novella post, http://roadeveron.blogspot.it/2011/06/santa-maria-novella.html. Understandably, since the chapel is a side-bar, off the cloister, from the main church. It's where the Spanish courtiers gathered. Anyhow, the frescoes covering its walls and ceiling are by Andrea di Bonauti, done between 1365-1370, and they are some of the most striking and complex of all, celebrating, mostly, the Dominicans. Here are a few in addition to what I posted in 2011.
First, possibly, a correction of something I posted in 2011:
starting at the left, the guy in the brown cloak is Cimabue,
Giotto's teacher; Giotto is next to him, in profile, in the green
hood; further right, in purple, holding a book, Boccaccio;
above him, in white hood, is Petrarch; further right of him,
in white cap, is Dante; yes, this will be on the quiz


















The Florence Duomo...but wait...this representation has
flying buttresses...it was painted from a model of what the
under-construction church would look like; as observed
elsewhere, though they have their share of Gothic churches,
the Florentines thought flying buttresses unsightly and
avoided them


















From the opposite wall, which is all about
St. Thomas stomping on infidels, heretics,
et al., here is Aristotle, representing philosophy




















And from the ceiling, St. Lunkerus, patron saint of  fly fisherman














After Santa Maria Novella, we did our obligatory visit to the
market















And, on the way to Santa Croce, stopped by
the Orsanmichelle; here, Donatello's St. Mark
(or possibly St. Matthew, St. Luke, or St.
John
; or possibly someone else)