Monday, November 16, 2009

Wells Cathedral II

Outside the church, the "Penniless Porch" for
beggars; indeed there were some the day we
were there










Inside, from the original Saxon cathedral, the
baptismal font, made to celebrate 1000AD










Fashion statement: on the side of the font, hundreds of years
later, someone has tried to re-shape the Romanesque arch
into a Gothic arch

On one of the pillars, a very famous depiction
of a medieval toothache

In the 14th century, the southwest pier of the
crossing had subsided four inches, threatening
the whole building; between 1338 and 1348,
this amazing structure, a sort of Gothic figure
eight (alpha and omega?) was added, a sort of
interior buttressing; looking at it for the first
time, one thinks this can't be medieval, it must
be a Victorian or even 20th century addition;
but no, it was completed in the year of the
Black Death, 1348; it worked; and it is strikingly
beautiful, and huge, apart from being completely
different from anthing we have ever seen in a
medieval cathedral

The buttressing seen from the nave; there are
three of the buttressing figures, the nave, and
both transepts, humongous

The oldest still functioning cope chest, 1120

A figure in the chapter house, sticking his
tongue out at the bishop

Wells Cathedral clock--the oldest complete still-functioning
clock in the world, 1390 (Salisbury's is a bit older, but has no 
face and does not do minutes...a clock precursor)

It still powers a variety of cathedral bells and
whistles

As well as, every fifteen minutes (for 600+ years), these
jousting knights, which whirl around for a minute or so
until the third from the left gets un-horsed; it's a hoot to
watch. As I said, if a cathedral can be fun, Wells definitely
is fun.

Wells Cathedral

Working our way back east, we stopped in Wells, did a
marvelous cathedral tour, walked the town, then headed on
toward Avebury, detouring by Bath in search of an internet
signal. We stopped at a quite decent lay-by about 4 miles
from Avebury. To us, Wells was far more interesting on
the inside than the outside, and I'll have to add another
post to do it justice. If a cathedral can be fun, Wells is a
fun cathedral.












Wells Cathedral is best known for its west
facade, marvelous and pretty much intact
sculpture. Oh yes, there's a bishop's
palace, the old city itself, smallest cathedral
city in England, is beautiful











Interior, looking up at the crossing ceiling, 10 or more
stories above, and organ; I'll have more on the crossing
in the next post...another extraordinary 14th century
cathedral repair job










Apse ceiling










West window










Choir, beautiful textile work, wonderful
misericords









Friday, November 13, 2009

Glastonbury

We spent the night in an enlightened carpark in Tintagel. It actually specified self-contained motorhomes such as us as OK overnight, for a mere 3 pounds. If only there were more.

From Tintagel we drove on the short distance to Glastonbury, a place we have visited many times before. We got diverted into the Clark's (shoes) Village and the outlet stores there, but finally got back on task to take in the celebrated and cheerful weirdness that is Glastonbury. See illustrations.

We finished up too late to find a proper campsite, and wound up in a farm campground near Wells. I misjudged the sogginess of the turf, and promptly got the Grey Wanderer stuck in the camping area. Really stuck. It's mud season here, but then I think probably every season here involves a lot of mud. The farmer happily pulled us out with his tractor--Vicki freaking out, despite his reassurances--noting this was not the first time, and we spent the evening in his (paved, sort of) driveway. 10 lbs; I guess includes the tractor pull. Nice people but not a nice circumstance. I vowed to avoid unpaved areas, especially in England.


Clark's Village, a nice outlet mall, though the
Clark's outlet itself was disappointing








We'd already done the Tor

And the Abbey, more than once, more than
twice, actually











So we concentrated on the high weirdness of High Street; it
reminds me of Haight Ashbury; but then Vicki reminds me
that the weirdness has been going on here for aeons







Steering a middle course between the Ying and the Yang









And hemp (in Avalon)







I swear the Psychic Piglet has been there for 30 years








Not to give an entirely one-sided picture of Glastonbury,
the beautiful George and Pilgrims hotel has been there since
1452; crenellated, too

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Marine Spelunking at Tintagel

There are some huge and fantastic sea caves on the Cornish
coast and particularly at Tintagel
For reasons still unclear to me--except that my life insurance
policy was renewed and paid up recently--Vicki wanted me
to climb down to the "beach" and snap a few pix of the giant
caves

So here I am on the beach, huge waves coming ever nearer;
I happen to know, having read Victor Hugo's Toilers of the
Sea many years ago (I am forever watching out for giant
clams), that the tide can come in very quickly in these parts
(i.e., Brittany, English coast)









Snapping pix, minding my own business, and then I notice
sea foam is blowing back out of the cave opening; lots of it









So I beat a hasty retreat; here is the beach 30 minutes later!

Monday, November 9, 2009

Tintagel


Tom took us the back roads to Tintagel














13th century castle ruins; Earl Richard, Henry III's brother,
who built the castle, had a fine sense of location and view,
but little of defense. Most people regard it as a vanity castle,
an attempt to associate with the Arthur legends. Of course,
there is no real connection between this castle or location
with Arthur. There's nothing much substantive about
Arthur at all, but we won't let that get in the way of a good
story.









Coast looking east














West

Summit, end, of the island

More castle ruins

More violent coast

Vicki at Tintagel


St. Ives

Beach road at St. Ives







Tide's out; it's a beautiful beach but a wild surf








Very wild; actually, we didn't think all that much of the
town, but the Cornish coast is wonderful

Oops! Eden Sculpture

I should have followed the Eden post with this, on the variety
of sculpture at Eden Project, one of its major and most
impressive features; above, Woman, in the Cornwall biome







Giant bee, pollinator, on the terraces









Bacchinalia, the Mediterranean biome










Depiction of all the electronic waste each
person creates












The Seed--a 70 ton Cornish granite monolith,
in the Core












World's largest refrigerator magnet board











Us

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Archeology 101

Half a mile down the road, once you found the marker on
the unnamed road









Intrepid megalith-hunter, hot on the trail...











Of course, most of the megaliths are now in fences, barns,
houses, etc.

Or scratching posts

Tin Age structure

At last! The very famous and very enigmatic Men-am-Tol,
or "101" site







Me, pondering whether to engage in one of the silly rituals
associated with this site








Of course, I did; but Vicki declined being passed through,
naked, nine times, etc.; at least on camera








This is someone else's photo off the web; I really don't think
there's much of an enigma here; sort of a group site, so to
speak...