Sunday, May 17, 2026

Orangerie [Not]; Fete Du Pain

Our plan, on our penultimate day in Paris, was to visit the Orangerie for its Impressionist works, then walk to Notre Dame for the annual Fete du Pain in the cathedral's forecourt, and then walk back home through the fun St. Germain des Pres neighborhood. Like most plans, it did not survive first contact...but it worked out OK, even better in some respects.

First contact...as Rickie Stevie advises, never leave anything
important until last...

Previous visits to the Orangerie can be seen from here

So we walked back through the Tuileries

And the length of the Louvre

Possibly where the break-in occurred

Looking across the river, the Institut de France

Sketching class

Seen at a bouquaniste

Not all river traffic is tourism; especially in the AM

Tower of St. Jacques

Conciergerie







































































































































































Finally we are at the Fete du Pain


















About which...

Action shot

Currently they are judging sandwich concoctions...

Among the contestants
More entries; the judges dictate the main ingredients, you make a
sandwich out of them...we're talking French here, not PBJ or BLT;
these entries were made by a boulangere (female)
Not far away, a guy is making croissants; the old-fashioned way

Remember to stretch before rolling...





Ample interpretive information (also: rounded=butter)

The line to buy the goodies...



Was actually longer than the line to get into the cathedral

Last Of The Orsay, 2026

On May 10th we made our last visit to the Orsay for the year, visiting the Impressionists, a special exhibit on the identification of stolen art in WWII, and a section of non-Impressionist late 19th century work. Oh, and for hard-core art appreciationistas, I should mention that my new article, "Monet in America, 1889-90," is up and ready to view here.

Personal favorite, always to re-post, Manet's Luncheon on the Grass, 1862

Gustave Caillebotte, The Boating Party or Oarsman in a Top Hat,
1879; acquired by the Musee d'Orsay in 2022 for nearly $50mm;
Caillebotte painted, usually more realistic scenes, but is most remembered
as a patron and collector of the Impressionists; his collection, donated
to the state, is the core of the Orsay's Impressionist department

The identity of the top-hatted oarsman is unknown, 
but I vote for Manet, here shown from a nearby Fanton-Latour
group portrait; Manet and Caillebotte were known to be close,
the former much influencing the latter's realist tendencies

Another Caillebotte, The House Painters, 1877

And more famously, his Floor Scrapers...1875; reminded us of scraping
and caulking the floor of our home in Montana...



Very late Renoir, reverting to his Rubens period?

Van Gogh, Church of Auvers sur Oise, 1890


One of the three Starry Nights


The post-Impressionists had an interest in (manually-operated)
fans and designing images for fans...this one by Gauguin














Another by Toulouse-Lautrec

Unusual Renoir landscape...Algerian scene, 1881

Henri Gervex, A Session of the Painting Jury, before 1885;
a raised umbrella (Paris is more beautiful in the rain") was 
a yes vote; Gervex himself was disqualified from competition 
in the Salon some years earlier (painted a nude that was
considered in poor taste)

An interesting exhibit funded by the American Friends of
the Musee d'Orsay...some of the Orsay's holdings,
recovered from the Germans after 1945, for which proper
owners have never been found...most likely all murdered...
One of Cezanne's many Mt. Victoix landscapes...ruled 
a fake after the war, now considered genuine
























An important earlier Renoir, Madame Alphonse Daudet, 1876

Alfred Stevens, Brother and Sister by the Sea at Honfleur, 1891;
there were many such paintings, many by well-known artists

From a great video on the whole sordid affair... Goering examining
his latest hoard

Due credit to the US Army "Monuments Men," who recovered much
of what had been stolen; watch the movie! read the book!

Rose Valland, museum curator, member of the Resistance, kept meticulous
secret notes on the German plundering, leading to the recovery of many works


Now moving on to another part of the museum...a great sort-of Romeo
and Juliet scene, Alexandre Cabanel, The Death of Francesca de Rimini
and Paolo Malatesta
, 1870; not Romeo and Juliet...

William Bouguereau, Equality Before Death, 1848

William Bouguereau, Birth of Venus, 1879

Cabanel, Birth of Venus, 1863

Jean-Leon Jerome, Young Greeks Attending a Cock Fight, 1846


Friday, May 15, 2026

Interim Update #1,293

So on Wednesday May13th, we packed up, closed the apartment, Bolt-ed to the Gare du Nord, took the Eurostar to St. Pancras, the Piccadilly Line from Kings Cross to Heathrow Terminal 5, the Hertz shuttle to the Hertz lot, picked up our rental car, and set forth toward our lodging near Southampton. It was one of the smoothest removals ever until I took the wrong turn off the M3, and we then found ourselves on 5-6 miles of Google-directed single lane two-way roads through the wheatfields and wilds of Hampshire. Not Vicki's worst nightmare, but certainly in the top 10. See illustration. Eventually we found our way to the Days Inn and dinner, rest, relaxation, and regrouping. 

In any case we are now in the UK of GB for six weeks or so and have very much enjoyed our first day here, seeing Winchester, the great Cathedral, and generally reacquainting ourselves with Brits and British culture. We even had breakfast--scones and clotted cream--at the Marks and Spencer cafe. I swear we were the youngest people there and among the few not reading print newspapers. We'll continue our 2026 visit to Britain here just as soon as the blog gets us out of France, in five or six more posts.

Gare du Nord, Hall #1

Adieu, Paris; until 2027

In the wilds of Hampshire; at least they were not HGVs (heavy goods
vehicles) nor tour buses

Reward at the end of the road