Monday, April 20, 2026

Musee des Arts et Metiers, 2026

Something Vicki read led her to want to visit the Musee des Arts et Metiers...arts and measures...although I'd suggest it's mostly history of science and technology from the Enlightenment on. I'd visited it in 2021, solo, and appreciated it as someone who had studied and taught a bit of the history and philosophy of science might. Friday nights are free, and, we thought, why not? My 2021 visit was a bit more comprehensive, but the pix below complement it reasonably well.

Holy Batmobile, Batman!...it's Adel's 1893 flying machine...got off
the ground but briefly before crashing...but entrenched the term avion
in the language


Steam-powered engines...a precursor to the Wrights; and far better
to look at; but didn't fly...

Judging from my 2021 pix, we saw two different museums...taking
a wrong turn perhaps...more technology than science


Among the automatons of the 18th century, this pianist, belonging 
originally to Queen Marie Antoinette

Thus

Paintings were rendered into moving parts too

Another of the Queen's automatons

Scroll-playing mini organ 

Solar oven; not Marie Antoinette's

19th century lightbulbs

Magic lanterns...didn't get a good pic of Edison's phonographes...

Models

Digging the Madrid subway with a French subway digging machine

From an 1874 relief map of Paris, showing just our neighborhood 
around Luxembourg 

The whole museum is a former abbey, and the abbey church displays
the most prized objects...


Foucault's Pendulum...demonstrating the rotation of the earth...

And other stuff





Perhaps original hues in the church

As seen in the 2024 Olympics, galloping along the Seine


Click...


Sunday, April 19, 2026

Promenade Plantee, 2026

We first began walking the Promenade Plantee--aka the Coulee Verte Rene-Dumont--in 2014, when we lived in the 11th. We've done it a few more times since, most picturesquely in 2019. In April 2026, we were just looking for a walk, hoping for great garden and other views, but clearly we were a couple weeks early for the main bloom. Much of the planting is in roses. Still it's a beautiful walk, from the Bastille to Vincennes, 3 miles, the world's first elevated garden, through much of the old bits of the city, built on an old disused railway. We did New York's lower Manhattan imitation two years ago. Different place, different experience, still well worth doing. We'll do the Promenade Plantee again before we leave Paris in May.

Among the dozens of elite artisans' shops and studios in the Viaduct des
Artes, beneath the Promenade ("why a duck?); they're restoring old art




































All in the 12th


So many things in Paris you're just not going to see anywhere else;
these adorn the 12th arrondisement police commissariat


Someone's art deco garden


Classic view

Early bloomers



Creche kids on a field trip...always a joy to behold





Martin Schongauer at the Louvre

We finally got back to the Louvre on April 15th, but not much further than the special exhibition of works by the late 15th century engraver and painter Martin Schongauer. Few of Schongauer's paintings have survived, but there are plenty of prints from the more than 100 engravings he did in his short life. He is widely regarded as the first to really make a go of artistic engraving and printing (Gutenberg was just a couple decades earlier) and was idolized by Durer, a generation younger, who, apart from being the master engraver/printer, was a major collector of Schongauer prints. We have been encountering Schongauer here and there since our 2011 visit to Colmar, and possibly earlier. We were there last in 2023.

But first, in the Tuileries...

Marveling at the lengths the French will go to to conceal unsightly
renovation, redesign...

Click to enlarge and read

All the biographical stuff was music to my ears, since
I'd just finished my Life and Art of René Ssance, who
would have been a younger contemporary of Schongauer

Crucifixion with Four Angels...the size and detail are
incredible; Schongauer's education as a goldsmith is
evident in all the engravings; the print itself is maybe
5x7 inches...

Holy Family, 1470s; oil on lime wood panel

Adoration of the Shepherds, oil on oak panel

Madonna and Child at the Window, 1475; all the
paintings are oil...we're two generations after van Eyck

Madonna of the Carnation, pen and ink, 1470

Two panels, four massacres/martyrdoms...St. Bartholomew,
the Innocents, St. Acacius and the Ten Thousand, and [not
to be outdone...] St. Ursula and the Eleven Thousand Virgins

St. Anthony (not being tempted) and Nativity; note
Baby J head piercing



Non Tocare (you can look but you can't touch) and a Doubting Thomas;
late 1470s; according to the Louvre, only the Doubting Thomas Jesus is
by Schongauer, the other by his workshop

Madonna of the Rose Bower, 1473, Schongauer's most famous work, much cut
down in the 19th century


















































































































































































































































As we saw it in Colmar in 2023






Adoration of the Magi, 1475

"Take that, Saracen Pig!" very late 1400s. possibly not by Schongauer

Two St. Michael and the Dragon scenes...barely larger
than postage stamps, but incredibly detailed...the goldsmithing
skill and perfect eyesight are so impressive







































Torment of St. Catherine; painted about 1500, possibly
in Krakow, from a Schongauer print












Illuminated books of the era





Schongauer's Road to Calvary, 1470-75, said to be the largest engraving/print of the 15th century; in
an adjacent small theater the Louvre showed a video looking at this print in detail, explaining the setting, technique, symbolism, etc.; and in English, too; we used to skip displays like this; now we never miss one

























































OK, so now we have moved on to the Hall of the Caryatids, Greek
and Hellenistic sculpture, appreciating this scene of Patsy, from
Monty Python and the Holy Grail...


























And later...it's gone! Off to a "metamorphoses" exhibit at the Rijksmuseum...
the famous Louvre Hermaphrodite...

As seen at the Louvre/Lens some years ago

Always fun to watch people approaching from astern and then...
"Oh my! Oh dear!"