Queenstown Scenes

Our last full day in Queenstown we spent--apart from beginning to pack up for our departure from NZ and revisiting Fergburger--walking about town and in Queenstown Gardens, which are situated on a small peninsula jutting out into Lake Wakapitu. 

Autumn is coming

Lake Wakapita is sort of S-shaped; here's a bit of it...from the peninsula

Entering the Gardens

Looking back to the main part of town; the ugly gash is the ski lift
up to the Sky Center amusement park and airport for parasailing 
and other Queenstown adventures; much construction going on

Beehives in the Gardens

Wider view of central Queenstown

The conifers in the middle range of the picture all were introduced
in the 19th century, and Te Papa (Department of Conservation) is
on a lengthy tear to remove all such non-native incursions...above
the green you can see more recent "kill" areas (brown) and older
ones (gray); it's a longer term project, removing the non-native
trees and forests and then replacing them with native varieties...

Among Queenstown's many adventure rides is this shark-shaped
boat that porpoises passengers around the lake...

At rest

A highlight of the walk was watching and learning about lawn
bowling, which one sees all over NZ, and especially the "crown"
version, which has nothing to do with royalty nor empire, but
rather the slope of the lawn, which vastly complicates the game

Maybe next time

In the beautiful rose garden

Other pretties too

Quite a few California sequoias (don't tell Te Papa!)

Proper and elegant way to support an aging oak's limbs...

Auxilium, sculptor: Andrew Rogers

Beautiful place and a nice end to our Queenstown
visit

Ad Majorem Gloriam Fergi

On Saturday, March 18th, as prophesied, we returned to Fergburger. In matters of taste, as well as of experimental science, replication is of critical importance. There are several resulting observations. 

First, the return experience, although generally satisfactory, was not magical, as was the original. As we often observe, only once can one enter the cathedral of Amiens for the first time. There is, among Fergburger clientele, however, a palpable sense of satisfaction, even joy, in the realization and conclusion of a quest. I sensed this sort of euphoric satisfaction among the clientele at the abbey of St. Sixtus, in Belgium, more than once, standing in line for a six-pack of Westvleteren, reputedly the greatest of beers. Second, the Fergburger we received, although still in the best-ever class, was inferior to the original: the meat was not quite as juicy. We learned, incidentally, that the big flavor difference with the Fergburger is that it is made from prime beef. We have no idea how prime in New Zealand compares with prime in the US, but the Fergburger's taste was superior to anything we have had in the US. The freshly-baked and lightly toasted bun is the other outstanding feature. Third, the onion rings we ordered on the second visit were satisfactory although not special. We prefer onion strings with the flakier coating. Fourth, a disappointment was the second stracciatcella milkshake from the Ferg gelato joint. Our second instance of the shake was botched, as if it had started out as a chocolate shake and then the maker added some chocolate sprinkles. Vicki's complaint garnered at least a correct stracciatcella gelato. 

Lastly, we visited Fergbaker, the boulangerie aspect of which was reminiscent of the real (French) thing. There we purchased one of their meat pies--a New Zealand thing--specifically the steak/mushroom/bleu cheese variety. The pie and filling were tasty, with no soggy bottom (how do they do this?!), but the filling was less interesting than the one we had in Wanaka, at the Doughbin there. Bottom line remains, however: when in Queenstown, do not miss the Fergburger experience.

The gelato joint

We theorize that the non-soggy bottom is achieved
by adding a non-nutritive pastry varnish to the mix

A handsome and tasty pie, although the blue cheese did not come on
very strongly

The Fergburger Experience

We have walked or driven by the place on Queenstown's main drag, Shotover St., many times, astounded by the scores, sometimes many scores, of people waiting, at all hours of day and night, to get into this hole in the wall restaurant. We don't do crowds unless there is a very good reason, and a hamburger, in my view, is not a good reason. But this year we finally succumbed, partly because of our desire to do some new things, in addition to all the old things we like. And partly because we wanted to see what all the Queenstownsy gourmet hamburger hype was about. Not that I am a connoisseur. I like a Whopper just fine. A Whopper Jr. even better. Vicki is rather more discriminating, and she will provide the tasting notes below. In any case, on March 15th, walking about Queenstown, we selected a time, mid-afternoon, when we thought the line and wait would be relatively short. Vicki got in the line, and I was to float around looking for seating, anywhere nearby. Also document the experience. As it happened, she got the food and indoor seating (capacity about 15, maximum). It helps sometimes to be the oldest people in the line. In Queenstown, we are the oldest people anywhere.

The line that mid-afternoon: not that bad, and it moves quickly
since most people do take-away

"In Ferg We Trust"

Basic menu: serious burgers

Of course, "Ferg" is just a fiction; when pressed, you'll be told

he was the first person to swim the length of Lake Wakapitu nude; 

or the first to go over Shotover Falls in a barrel...

In addition to the hole in the wall burger joint, there is now also
a bar and a bakery and a gelato joint, none of which we've tried; 
yet

How they feed so many people in so small a space is amazing

"Ferg loves you"

Our basic Fergburger arrives

Everything fresh, baked or cooked, etc., on the premises

Unveiling; I am taking lots of pix, attempting to look like a foodie influencer

The FergBurger revealed: "best hamburger ever,"
was Vicki's appraisal, best beef (tastes more like steak
than hamburger), perfect cooking, bun baking
and toasting, condiments, etc; I concurred; seriously;
FWIW

She also ordered a stracciatella gelato milkshake: similarly, best 

ever milkshake; interior of Ferg's...somehow reminded us of the old

Sonny Bryan's in Dallas, the size and sparseness; main difference

is the hours...Sonny Bryan's would close every mid-afternoon after

selling out of its BBQ pork; Ferg's is open 10AM to "late," closed

Xmas day

The picture wall is about the only decor

Detail

Amazing place...we may have to go back!

Routeburn, 2023, Part Two

Continuing our 2023 Routeburn walk...

Now with some elevation, looking back to the river Dart, way in
the distance; the river in the foreground is the Routeburn itself

Gorgeously clear jade-green water

Cascading grasses; in rainier season, a waterfall

The Flats

And we've arrived at the Flats hut; time for lunch

The scenery

Google Lens thinks this is the Jungfrau or possibly something in
Nepal; I couldn't find it with any certainty on the map; nice glaciers
though [Momus?]

The hut wardens do their best to keep trampers
informed of the conditions, which can quickly
change...beware the Ides of March+1 and its
severe gales

We never did find out what this contraption is; possibly a trap for
orcs or Uruk-hai left over from the filming of LOTR; seriously,
the site of Isengard and Orthanc is in the valley below....

The usual manicured NZ trail

Looking across the Flats and into the canyon by which we'll descend

Us, there, then

The golden leaves of Lothlorien, which we visited in 2014

Lothlorien scenes filmed not far from here

Huge old trees and burls

Looking back on a great New Zealand walk