Friday, February 28, 2014

Biggest Stump Ever, So Far

Normally, stumps don't get much attention, but this one, a Tasmanian Gum Tree that was cut down finally at about 150 years' age, is a real head-turner. Historic, too.
The signs in the foreground right are about 6 feet tall















Planted in the 1840s, grew to immense size, then had to be taken down, for public
safety, after weakening from storms and disease

















So if you want a really fast-growing behemoth,
get yourself a Tasmanian Gum Tree

Saturday In Nelson, 2014

Our itinerary, such as it ever is, called for driving north from Marahau to Cape Farewell and looking at Farewell Spit, northernmost bit of the South Island, and also at some of the sea stacks and arches up there on Cook Strait. But I had read that Nelson's Saturday market was quite good ("World Famous in New Zealand"), and we know from experience that street markets in this part of the world are well worth visiting. Actually, Nelson has three markets of note: a Wednesday "fresh" farmers' market, the Saturday produce and crafts market, and the Sunday flea market. Anyhow, we had visited Nelson very briefly in 2009--we were in a hurry to get to Abel Tasman and our hut reservations on the tramp--and had been impressed. It has, so it is said, the finest weather on the South Island.
One aisle in Nelson Saturday market















Herb fanciers' heaven















Nice bowls, native wood




















Interesting sculpture















Cutlery made from old tools















Love the before/after















About 10% of the Nelson and environs
population are now German, we've read; we
met one such family who had rented a house
in Motueke for 3 months so their children
could learn English...South Island English!























Local musician; unpictured is the Schnapp Dragon Distillery,
which was offering tastings of its several products...most
notably its whiskey, rum, and gin, all excellent, in my
judgment; the rum had won 3rd place in a Barbados rum
competition; lots of home distilling in NZ, rather less craft
distilling




















One of three aisles of cricket equipment in a Nelson sports
store; rugby of course is the national sport, and it requires
no equipment, so it is said, except balls...
















Art Deco in Nelson too















Thus















And thus
















Photo in the local museum, New Zealand's original rugby
team; I doubt you'd get any rugby team in such a dreamy
pose nowadays

















Car camping in the 1940s















Street in downtown Nelson; nice place

Kayaking On The Abel Tasman

For our fifth day we decided to rent a two-person kayak and spend the day mostly on the water. The waters around the Abel Tasman National Park are typically quite calm, and, after the mandatory hour's safety lesson, we were underway.
Our intrepid couples' kayak safety class makes its way across the tidal flats to its
rendezvous with the kayaks
















Arrival of the kayaks















Lots of people do the AT this way; many, only this way















Pretty calm sea; calmer than many a lake I have seen; the rowing was pretty effortless,
we were in no hurry, and the only serious challenge is not getting run over by water
taxis and cruise boats; and not getting so close to shore that the sand flies will get you



















So basically we spent the entire day rowing up the coast from Marahau to near
Anchorage, stopping for lunch at Akerston Bay, then across the channel to these two
islands, Adele and Fisherman's, then back across the channel to Marahau


















Avast! 1st Mate and CFO Vicki guides us toward a rocky stretch
















Lunch at Akerston Bay's tiny 3-tent campground















Weirdly eroded rocks and sea caves















Across the channel, off Adele Island, looking at fur seal pups















Ditto; click to enlarge; they're the small black fuzzy things















Thus















And thus















And thus















South end of Adele Island















Looking back at Fisherman's Island















Abel Tasman, 4

Day four of our 2014 Abel Tasman tramp...
Vicki begins the crossing of Awaroa Bay, a bit of a thrill on an otherwise gentle trek;
note clouds; humidity; 7 in the AM
















Others crossing; you're never in a crowd on the AT, but never quite alone, either
















More clouds















Looking toward the sea...more clouds















Of course, the big challenge at Awaroa is crossing the bay
without crunching any shells
















But finally, after half an hour, you make it to the other side





















It's a jungle out there















Beach and white-out





























In the bush, every big old tree has numerous
parasites





















A mile or so out of Totaranui, we encountered a group of 11-year-olds from
Nelson Intermediate School, on the AT for a week-long field trip; nice kids
and teachers

















Another detour! Uphill, too!















At least it's always a great trail




















At Totaranui, I call it quits: too much humidity, bugs, detours, weight, noisy campground
neighbors, etc; we call the water taxi and head back to Marahau; most people stop at
Totaranui anyway, and we'd already done the big leg to Wharwharangi in 2009

















And our rustic little cabin at the Marahau Beach Camp

Abel Tasman, 3

Day three of our Abel Tasman tramp, Bark Bay to Awaroa campground, with a brief stop at Awaroa Lodge.
Stupid kayaker tricks at Bark Bay















Tidal flats















Ditto, Bark Bay campground in the trees















Aggressive tree fern











































Difference #4 from 2009...it starts getting really, really humid
















Playing Blue Lagoon on an isolated beach











































Dead blue penguin...















Boardwalk across wetlands















Difference #5..we'd planned on a nice major meal at Awaroa Lodge, but they don't
serve from 3-6PM, and we had to settle for a tuna wrap and a salad...bummer

















The ups and downs of the Abel Tasman















And so we arrived at Awaroa Bay and campground with this grim reminder of
what happens if you don't get the tides right