Saturday, May 17, 2025

Church of St. Gervais And St. Protais

We had just finished lunch at a favorite restaurant, Louis Philippe, and were walking toward the Hotel de Ville when we noticed this unusual church. There are quite a few churches in the center of Paris, and we have been to most of them. But not St. Gervais. We decided to have a look at it, and, as with nearly all these old buildings, there was plenty to look at. St. Gervais is a very late Medieval structure, built in the 15th and 16th centuries mostly. But with plenty of updates. 

The facade was built last and is the first example of French
Baroque--the best example is perhaps St. Paul's down the
street a bit,* built somewhat later; the rest of St. Gervais
is Flamoyant Gothic; note the column capitals, from the
bottom up: Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian!


We'll see more of the glass later...a mixture of 16th and 21st century

Nave view; note the little stools...no pews or such

More glass...in 1918 a German artillery shell hit the roof,
causing it to collapse, killing nearly a hundred people 
celebrating mass, injuring many more; much of the 16th
century glass, by Jean Chastellain, was destroyed; most
of the 21st century glass is by Sylvie Gaudin and Claude
Courageux

Altar, etc.

Chancel up high

Half the choir, notable for...

Some bawdy misericords...some had to be altered to suit Baroque tastes;
here, a couple conserves water, bathing together...thanks, Wikipedia











More glass, notable for the melange

This chapel available...your favorite saint/demi-god here...












































Several parts of the church were cordoned-off like this..."possible fall
of broken stained glass windows"; we theorize the damage came from the
massive thunder- and hail-storm that hit Spain and France May 3rd...some
areas received petanque ball-sized hail...in Paris it was mostly golf ball- and
egg-sized hail, doing great damage, disruption; personally, I fear for the
Chablis region, southeast of Paris; thank goodness we had already shorted
our Chablis futures

In the windows above, you can see holes where the glass
has fallen

Ditto; interesting factoid department...on Easter Monday,
April 13th, 1360, one of the more devastating hailstorms
ever recorded hit near Chartres, grapefruit-sized stones,
killing more than 1,000 men and 6,000 horses from Edward III's
army, which had begun a siege of the cathedral city; Edward
took it as a sign from God, and quickly signed an armistice 
ending the first phase of the Hundred Years' War; other phases
went better, for a time; something other blogs don't tell you...

Sort of a Mary hall/chapel

High quality if not famous sculpture laying all around

More contemporary glass, undamaged

If you know your history of organ music, you know of
the Couperin family, responsible for several great organists
and composers; they did their work at St. Gervais, on this
organ

The church even provided them with housing, next
door to the church

Because of the odd trapezoidal shape of the block, St. Gervais can
hardly been seen for all the buildings surrounding it; except the facade

Voltaire remarked that it was a beautiful church, whose
only flaw was that it couldn't be seen...





























































































































































































































PS...*St. Paul's, Saturday evening, in the Marais, as we waited
for a bus to take us home from the Eurovision broadcast 
at the Bastille...strictly Corinthian capitals....hmmm...


Oboes!

As I was saying, you can hardly walk a block in Paris without seeing something of interest...and there we were, walking along the Rue Montalembert, in the 7th, minding our own business, when Vicki exclaims "Oboes!" I look in the window, and sure enough, there is a young woman playing the oboe. And lots of oboes and oboe accessories. We are passing by the oboe division of Buffet Crampon, fabricant of wind instruments. They make oboes here. Very good ones. As a former oboist (5th through 11th grades), I am enthralled. Students of this blog know that we have already featured oboes and oboists in many, many different settings...just search oboe and oboist in the search box. We didn't set foot in the atelier...not in the market for a $12,000 oboe currently...but will surely look into their massive showroom on the Boulevard St. Germain sometime soon. Paris...!



Production line

Awards won; beginner oboe kit

Bells for English horns? Heckelphones?

Showroom; you don't want to buy one of these $12k puppies without trying it out


Oboe stands and covers; and reeds


Tens of thousands of euros of oboes ready to ship somewhere...

More oboe accoutrements, including a backpack;
and thread and knives for making your own double reeds






































































Concluding recognition: just how generous and tolerant my parents were in paying for instrument rentals and lessons in my youth for something so foreign to their world...my mother could play popular music on the piano, and my father could whistle anything...but...the oboe?!

Friday, May 16, 2025

Paris Scenes, 1

Usually our walks around have some practical purpose--seeing this, visiting that, buying something or other--which sometimes issue in a blog post. Along the way, however, there are endless sights and experiences to record, whether or not they fit the narrative arc--don't laugh--and they usually end up as "scenes" or out-takes. Here are the first week's collection from our 2025 Paris campaign. You can hardly walk a block in this city without seeing something of interest.

St. Chappelle, en route to the Fete du Pain

Walking through Luxembourg  Garden, the monument to the
painter Delacroix

Alpenglow on the cathedral

Sunset on the Seine

Sunday morning at the Bastille market

In the Place Bastille, brass discs mark the outlines of the
old Bastille itself

From the Ile St. Louis...work on the cathedral is by no means finished

Berthillion, on the Ile St. Louis, ever popular ice cream dispensary;
possibly the original of now many locations

Ever popular Seine cruise

Weekly Sunday afternoon 6th Arrondisement group-skate on the
Boulevard St. Germain; goes on for a mile or so; roads closed, police
escort

On the Palace of Justice: "time passes, law remains" (they still have the
rule of law in this country)

The day's caryatids

A block from our apartment, Foucault began fooling around
with pendulums here, demonstrating the earth's rotation

"One for all and all for me, and tea for two, and six for a quarter..."

Parfumerie pop-up

Wednesday noon line to get in the Orsay: "Oh, the Mona Lisa is over
there?!"

Still moored in the same place since 2014

Now walking through the Tuileries...which I remember mostly as a
dry, hot, dusty place...the greening of Paris is well underway, however, here
and numerous other places we've seen 

Still in the Tuileries, the last remaining bit of
the Tuileries Palace, begun by Catherine de Medici,
in the 16th, lived in by the various royal and
imperial families from time to time, destroyed in
the Commune, 1870













































































































































































































































































































































































1860 view of the Tuileries Palace, providing the 4th wall, so to speak,
of the Louvre complex; painting by J. Fichot









More greening


























Bee hives on the Tuileries












As Raymond Mason's The Crowd looks on
Musee d'Orsay also looks on


Still more greening, now behind the Hotel de Ville; not pictured:
they're turning the forecourt of the HdV into a forest...seriously...
pix later

Coquilles St. Jacque at a market behind the HdV

The Bazaar de Hotel de Ville/Marais also getting into the act

It will be interesting to see how they green up Radio France...
Le Camembert, as the locals call it...maybe a forest on top?