Thursday, May 15, 2025

Un Monde de Pain

We saw Paris' Festival of Bread in 2023, enjoyed it immensely, missed it in 2024, but were sure to catch it this year, with our earlier arrival. The festival generally approaches May 16, feast day for St. Honore, patron saint of bread. The Festival is held in the forecourt of Notre Dame cathedral--busier this year that in recent years--but not so busy as to preclude the La Fete du Pain. Baking is a very big deal in France...there are boulangeries/patisseries on almost every street, and everyone has their favorite. Ours is La Parisienne, on Rue Madame, a block away from our apartment. Michael Reydellet, its owner, just won his second "best baguette in Paris" award a few days ago. There are several others nearby, but none that close. You can always tell a good one by the line to get into the shop. There's almost always a line at La Parisienne.



The main deal is watching a dozen or so master bakers and students
do their thing right in front of you 

The show is about baking, yes, but also about bakeries and what it
takes to turn our quality products, en masse 



One of the rolling-out-the-dough machines

Yum

En masse

The sheet of dough shortly will be a few dozen croissants
or something else

Helpful back story

Peeled and cored apples waiting to be sliced and placed in an apple
tartlette

First some butter, then some apple goo...

Everything comes in industrial sizes



Assembling; at this point Vicki asked the MC, a TV 
personality, how long one had to train to be a baker,
and the MC asked this guy, who responded, a la maniere
des Francais
, "a lifetime"



Now in the shoppe, buying our freshly baked lunch

Vicki's apple tartlette

I never got the name of this one...a Paris something or other...
but a great edible experience






































































































































































































New sign already up at a Parisienne...




Wednesday, May 14, 2025

Cimabuie At The Louvre

After a day of unpacking, moving in, stocking up, and coping with a cold (Mark), we headed off to the nearest Metro station (Rennes) to charge up our Navigo cards and then took the Metro to the Louvre to re-up our memberships in the Amis du Louvre. That done, we walked over to the north end of the Denon wing to see the Cimabuie exhibit, which was in its last days. 

Students of this blog will recall our visiting the "Siena and the Rise of Painting, 1300-1350" exhibit at the Met last fall, mostly about Duccio, which I fittingly ridiculed here. As soon as I learned of the Cimabuie exhibit at the Louvre, I thought to myself, "Aha! Dueling museums! Have to see that!" Cimabuie, you see, was a generation older than Duccio and Giotto, and the younger guys both seem to have absorbed elements of Cimabuie's "new" style, emphasis on the natural, etc. Vasari even claimed that Duccio was Cimabuie's pupil, but that's disputed (despite some fun anecdotes, e.g., about Cimabuie trying to swat a fly the young Duccio had painted onto one of his figures). 

Comparisons are invidious, especially in art and among art museums, and the two exhibits had very different goals, apart from glorifying their own holdings. The Louvre won this one, I'd say, and will explain in passing, below. For a more expert appraisal of the Cimabuie exhibit, see Daniel Larkin's article in Hyperallergic, "Will the Real Cimabuie Please Stand Up?" (Thanks, Vicki). Wikipedia's article on Cimabuie is a really, seriously, extensive and very much up to date survey. If you're really, seriously, extensively into pre-Renaissance Italian painting and the 13th century, don't miss it.

Exhibits such as this generally consist of the star items plus a small galaxy of more or less contemporaneous items, so you can see things in context, where they came from, where they were going. Very helpful, but not for a blog such as this. I'll focus on the stars. 

A re-examination...

You have to like a museum that can laugh at itself: this is
the Louvre's first acquisition attributed to Cimabuie, in 1802;
among us rank amateurs, it might pass for a "follower" of
Botticelli, certainly nothing from the 13th or 14th centuries;
it is the first thing displayed, with grins, as you enter the
exhibit...
 

Click to enlarge; says it all better than I can

The occasion for the exhibit was the restoration of both
the Louvre's Cimabuies; among the things discovered, after
the 19th century over-painting and layers of varnish were
removed, was the vividness and complexity of Cimabuie's
palette, using only the finest materials...such as the above
lapis lazuli, a rare mineral found only in Afghanistan,
source of the richest deep blue pigment, the only thing fit
for the Madonna's mantle...

The Louvre's recently restored Cimabuie Maesta; very large,
almost life-sized; painted 1280, Pisa



























































































































One of the more interesting provenances we've seen; fittingly, the Maesta
sits in the Denon wing of the Louvre



Moving right along, we are now on to the Louvre's 
2nd Cimabuie piece, The Mocking of Christ, with its
own interesting provenance...found in a widow's kitchen
in Senlis, authenticated, sold at auction for 20 million 
euros, declared a national treasure (see below) and thus
installed at the Louvre

















Thus; definitely a step beyond what you would normally
see in Byzantine pix in terms of detail, facial expressions, 
etc.; compare Giotto's much larger Arena Chapel frescoes

Displayed with the Frick's Flagellation; both painted on the same panel!





























Comparison/context department: Giotto's much later 
St. Francis Receiving the Stigmata, 1298; don't miss the
lower mini-pix, all of which got blown-up into huge frescoes
when Giotto did the upper nave of St. Francis' church in 
Assisi...some pix here...the point of the Stigmata displayed
in this exhibit is to demonstrate how quickly things moved
as Cimabuie, Duccio, and Giotto rubbed elbows together
all over Italy












Rare dorsal view of the aforementioned

















Duccios on loan from New York, Siena, etc.
Lastly, a Madonna and Bambino, the Vierge Gualino, that was for centuries
identified as a Duccio, now recognized as a Cimabuie; from Turin



Restorations always win over round-ups, especially when the restorations
reveal new perspectives, permit new insights...advantage: Louvre...
and despite the hi-tech presentation on the restorations...Vicki disagrees




Friday, May 9, 2025

Interim Update #1,287

Our wonderful visit to Nice at an end, on May 7th the Train Ã¡ Grande Vitesse (TGV) took us, first, with only medium vitesse and several stops along the shore all the way to Marseilles, and then north, with much greater vitesse, all the way, direct, to the Gare Lyon in Paris. A short taxi ride and we were back in our old apartment on Rue Jean Bart, in the sixieme arrondisement. Home, sort of. For the next seven weeks.

En route to Marseilles









Really Grande Vitesse...as high as 194mph


Nice Out-Takes, 3

59 (count'em) different lollie flavors

Not what you think it is

Arboreal strangle-hold

"Oh shit, where's my racquet?!"

Between Toulon, where he earned his spurs, and putting down the royalist
uprising in Paris, Vendemiaire, 1795, N lived here

Brilliantly adorning the Durandy subway station, a block
from our apartment

The Mediterranean was pretty calm during most of our stay,
but for this one day; no surfers, however

If you're a wealthy wannabe painter, Charvin is definitely the place
to go, whether in Nice, Cannes, or Paris; I noticed the place when 
we visited in 2013; in 2025, we lived two blocks away; the smocks are
about 200€

Gloriously old-fashioned




Pleine aire

Shades of azure

Back in old town, the beautiful 16th century Sgraffito above the
Adam and Eve House



Patron saint of baguettes

Vetements Sexy pour Hommes...similar store in the Marais...mostly skimpy
underwear and bathing suits

Strangely, in the heart of Nice, not a block from our place, is this
beautiful equestrian store; we walked by it almost daily and never saw
a horse or rider; not even any horse manure

Sort of what Charvin is to painting...this place is to riding



I confess to being a wannabe wealthy painter, but never a wannabe equestrian;
but if I were, I'd shop here