Saturday, October 29, 2022

Belvedere Museum, 2022: 1

We visited the Belvedere in 2010 and were not overly impressed. In 2022, we figured, we had learned a great deal more art history and should give the Belvedere another shot. What you get from such visits depends a great deal on what you bring to them, right? So we visited on October 23rd and indeed appreciated far more than in 2010. But still not overly impressed: we're just not into the Klimt/Schiele/expressionist thing. But there was plenty else to appreciate.

A big complex, outside the Ring, on high ground,
a position the field marshal would choose

The palace, now mostly the museum

Lots of neo-classicla/Baroque sculpture, including half a dozen
atlantines not included the Vienna caryatid post

Prince Eugene of Savoy: Louis XIV considered
him too short and ugly to be of military use, so
he volunteered his services to the Habsburgs, first
driving the Turks out of Austria, and then, with
Marlborough, defeating Louis' forces at Blenheim;
Belvedere was his reward, just as Blenheim was
Marlborough's

Helpful model

White, white, white is the color of our entry hall

Baroque, Baroque, Baroque...

The treaty that established Austria as an independent republic,
in May of 1955, was signed by the Great Powers, here

And announced from this very balcony

And now, on to the art collection: Hans Makart, The Five Seasons,
1872-1879; wait, no, The Five Elements

Edward Munch, Men on the Seashore, 1908


Monet, The Chef, 1882; why Monet didn't do portraits;
had a big bill at the restaurant...

Another nice Monet...alas, I didn't get the title

August Rodin, Gustav Mahler,1909


Gustav Klimt, Fritza Riedler, 1906


Klimt, Adam and Eve, 1917-1918


Klimt, The Smooch, 1908; at the height of his gold period; the Judith
was apparently on loan somewhere


Thursday, October 27, 2022

Vienna Food

Of the three cities we've visited this fall, we had our best overall food experiences in Vienna, eating out more than in Prague or Berlin, visiting a number of famous eating/drinking establishments, and finding some impressive food stores and markets. Several of these were addressed in previous posts...the Naschmarkt, Schweizerhaus at the Prater, Fuhrgassl-Huber heuriger...so I'll dwell on some other places and experiences here.

We had wiener schnitzel several times, both pork and veal, but
the best probably was at Fuhrgassl-Huber, near the Wienerwald



















Not processing this

Where the wild things are

BILLA is the large Austrian supermarket chain (now owned by
the German REWE); we shopped often at the BILLA around the
corner from our apartment; but over by the Anchor Clock one day
we happened into the BILLA Corso there, which is obviously the 
upscale version of BILLA; upscale not in the sense of pricing 
but rather in the range and variety of things sold...a gourmet's
paradise; I probably took a couple dozen pix, but will post here
just a few indicating the extent of the inventory; there were ample
"international" food sections, more and better than any other place
we've been; this is a part of the Mexican (!) section

There is no mustard shortage in Vienna, part one

Part two



































































































Truffles and truffly-type things

Two long shelves of capers

Some of the oils...not pictured: the two shelves of caviar in the
refrigerated section, the wonderful bakery, butchery, produce,
beer (they had Duvel!) and wine sections...and on and on; very
impressive

At Julius Meinl, the older, more traditional gourmet supermarket...
a 22 pound cake...€219

One of the tragedies of Viennese culture is that every night, after
closing, Demel throws away its unsold Sacher Tortes...


Always a line to get a table

We had dinner one night at Fischer Brau's bier garden; Vienna's
first brew pub, so to speak; the young brew-master let me in for a 
look and lengthy explanation...it's a small but popular operation

I can't believe I stuck my camera and head into this hot, steamy
mixture

Beer in pellet form...looks like rabbit pellets to me
Speaking of beer, the assembly line at Schweizerhaus, in the Prater

Always a line to get into the Cafe Sacher...driest chocolate cake
ever...

Trzesniewski's, a sandwich shop across from Hawelka's...

Trzesniewski's makes these little open-faced sandwiches...25
flavors...the beer mug is tiny, perhaps 100ml; the menu is the
postcard thing to the left
Back side of the menu: required allergy info

English menu from a "traditional" Austrian resto;
some interesting concoctions [click to enlarge]

Our downfall, however, was the Syrian baklava
bakery down the street from our apartment building...
pistachio sandwich in layers of filo, drenched in
honey...


Caryatids, Atlases, And Atlantines Of Vienna

Seen on our various walks in the inner city. Vienna certainly rivals, if not exceeds Prague, in this interesting and important respect. 







Mostly seen on neo-classical buildings, but occasionally on art nouveau
or art deco; or even rondo cubist...




Interesting how some are clearly straining, others just barely noticing
the weight




Don't know what to call them when they're mermen...with finned
legs...



One of the really good ones, just a block from the
Hundertwasserhaus





Most colossal of all



Rarely seen dorsal stance; designed by Caravaggio?