Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Provins Medieval Fair, 2

Continuing our coverage of the fantabulous 2019 Provins Medieval fair, best fair ever...
No costume? No problem!

So Middle Earth was Medieval? Of course, Vicki says

Chewbacca? What are you doing here?!

Caped crusader

Beautiful little princess

View of the castle and the church: from the leper colony

Thus; seriously

Boost your immune system with anti-leprosy wine; souvenir glasses available

Parish church, collegiale, which we'll visit shortly

The Tour Cesar, 12th century, watch-tower, but could pass for a castle for many
of us

Hildegarde's wines--there's Hildegarde herself

Nap-time for tiny Medievalist

Fruit juices from the monks, in  case you've have too much Hildegarde; the
abundant humor everywhere was wonderful

The guy playing the bells outside the church was a show-stopper

Until he crashed

In the US we have Washington slept here; in France, Jean d'Arc prayed here

Inside the church; I don't think it's Viking Lines... (click to enlarge)

The church is 13th century, but the dome is 17th, after the
usual fire

While others are looking at the exhibits in the church--mostly booksellers--I am
 examining the capitals...

And sure enough...

Provins Medieval Fair, 1

Never mind it's the largest Medieval fair in France, and thus, probably Europe, and thus, probably, the known universe. Vicki had read about it in a magazine some months ago, and, checking with Rebecca, we all decided it was a must-see. Just an hour from Paris, so it said. Really two hours, but it would have been worth an overnight in Provins. Simply said, it was the best fair, of whatever kind, I have ever seen. Provins is a World Heritage Site because, in part, of the array of Medieval buildings there dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. More importantly, it was one of the three or four high Medieval fairs--where, twice a year, merchants from England, Flanders, France, Spain, and Italy all met, to deal, and to create what would become a new economic order, multinational, but depending very largely upon cities, free cities, with a rising merchant and middle class. Where the Mediterranean met northern Europe. The heady stuff here is lost in the contemporary fair itself, which is about entertainment, but the heady stuff is why Provins is important and why it is so recognized. (Take a look at Life in a Medieval City for elaboration and much mention of Provins). In addition, with its great size--thousands upon thousands of participants, many costumed--the fair was great fun. With or without a costume, one could feel Medieval, part of a Medieval fair.
Metro ad; they've been doing this fair for 35 years; it was a 2 hour train ride
from Paris; but worth it and ever more

The little town itself is beautiful, convincingly Medieval, though not much
larger now than it was in the 13th century


There's a downtown and an uptown, where most of the action is; here, we're in
the downtown



Penelope in princess costume and very happy with it

The first of many of instrumental groups, usually with dancers, jugglers

So it's one thing to go to your local Medieval/Renaissance fair at the county
fairgrounds; quite another when the surroundings are thoroughly 12th-13th
century, in a place that was renowned for its international fair in those times


Provins is big-time rose country, everything in bloom

Even the bananas 

And other things

Now we are uptown, in a Medieval hardware store

In a big central square

Probably a third of the attendees are in costume, many
quite interesting and authentic-looking; here, a contestant
for the burning-of-the-witch contest at the end of the day;
oh, you get in for half-price if you're in a costume

Another instrumental group and juggler

The fair is HUGE

Best/largest selection of jewelry/bookmarks ever

Moving a float into place for the parade

The Knights Templars barbecue a great favorite

Tuesday, June 25, 2019

Le Bistrot Du Peintre, 2019

Vicki and I are not much into the cafe scene: she doesn't drink (or smoke) and I don't smoke (anymore), and neither of us can just sit around and talk for very long. I think most of the people you see having animated conversations in Paris' innumerable cafes don't spend their time together 24/7 like we do. Besides, at least when it comes to politics and religion, we don't much disagree. Nonetheless, we have our favorite cafe in Paris, to which we have now been two or three times: Le Bistrot du Peintre. It's at the corner of Rue de Charonne and Avenue Ledru-Rollin, in the 11th. The corner features four different cafes facing one another (not unusual for Paris), but all appear to have their faithful clientele. The Peintre seems to be doing better these days than in 2014, but then it appears most everything in the 11th is doing better. Before visiting it in 2014, we must have walked by it dozens of times, eventually noticing the apparently original art nouveau windows, walls, woodwork, stained glass, lamps, paintings, furnishings, etc. Toward the end of our stay, we stopped in, and I did a blog post on it. This time, we were out wandering in the neighborhood, Vicki said maybe we should do the cafe thing, and I said how about Le Bistrot du Peintre, which was nearby. She had a raspberry lemonade, and I had a "perfect" Negroni—which was less than perfect but only half the price of the perfect one at Camparino's in Milan—and I got several more pix, including the upstairs dining area, which I'd not seen in 2014.
Street scene in the neighborhood

Upstairs dining




Stairs back down

Topless bar





Lots of road construction on Rue de Charonne the month we were there, but that's
Le Bistrot du Peintre