Monday, June 24, 2019

Louis Vuitton Foundation, The Building

We were in Paris in 2014 as the construction of the Louis Vuitton Foundation was in its closing weeks. Having seen Frank Gehry's spectacular Guggenheim Museum/Balboa edifice (twice; just search Gehry), we were sure to see the LVF, another of his works, on our next visit. Our next visit was in 2016 or so, and the exhibition within was unappealing. The next year, the treatment of the building, like a huge picnic table cloth, was similarly unappealing. This year, however, the temporary exhibition was of Impressionist paintings, and the building was itself unadorned, and so, along with Rachel and Rebecca and Penelope, we took Metro #1 to the Bois de Boulogne. P and her mom had already seen the LVF and were anxious to return to the Jardin d'Acclimatation, which adjoins the Foundation. Rachel had already seen the Courtauld Collection, twice, in London, but accompanied us mostly to see the LVF building and its permanent collection. The Impressionist exhibit was fine, even illuminating. The museum structure was, as I sometimes say, a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Approaching view; yes, looks like a Frank Gehry, but it's
fabric, not titanium

























Suitably-attired security guard
















Gehry's first sketch of the building



















Possibly helpful models...























































Large format/NBA elevator

























We took in a bit of the permanent collection; I hope it's not
really permanent


























Gerhard Richter's Grau #334-3 (1973); so featureless my
camera could find nothing to focus on


























Vicki assists for scale; and focus; with that, we passed on
most of the rest of the collection

























Sculpture

From the high terraces one could hope for fine views of Paris from the west;
this is the Bois de Boulogne, a bit of it




















But the building's orientation and the sails prohibit views of anything of interest























































Just one little snippet

























Us, there; note la belle casquette, which I had just acquired from Emmaus



Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Eating Well With Auntie Rachel

So bright and early on June 13th, Penelope's Auntie Rachel arrived for a couple days' visit en route to her chateau at Tornon-d'Agenais, in the south. (It's a long story). After shopping at the two closest markets, d'Aligre and Bastille, we let her rest in the afternoon and then headed out for a long-awaited family dinner at nearby Bistrot Paul Bert. Not surprisingly, we have been eating well throughout the past few weeks, whether out and about or dining in on French cuisine. Well, sometimes Marks and Spenser cuisine. Eating well, nonetheless.
Bistrot Paul Bert, unassuming from the outside, pretty famous inside
So preoccupied were we with other things we forgot to document the appetizer,
a terrine for some and the white asparagus for others; here's the steak a poivre,
one of the notable dishes, which certainly did not disappoint




















And the frites, best we've had on this campaign, so far



















Penelope can barely wait to dig into the souffle Grand Marnier, the Iles Flotantes,
and the lemony tart-type thing (I think)




















Us, there, the whole unextended family





















A family favorite, from our previous Paris stay, is the Creperie Bretonne, Fleurie,
on Rue de Charonne; another his and her operation; that's him, the chef, outside









P samples the cider






























Which was actually quite popular among the ladies
























Rachel bombing Rebecca's documentation pix; just like when
they were kids...


























Omelette complet;  Rebecca contends that buckwheat crepes are nearly carb-free



















Rachel's dessert crepe; possibly not carb-free
























Among new-found favorites is the Cyril Lignac patisserie; his chocolateria
and restaurant are on the facing corners




















And a new jambon store, Ham's, which jambon-expert Vicki pronounced excellent



















Hands-down favorite is still Amorino's...best gelato ever (in
France)

























Thursday, June 13, 2019

A Day On Montmartre: The Rest

On the walk down from the churches, through Montmartre, to Place Pigalle...
Us at the Love Wall
















Rebecca and Penelope

View from the Basilica du Sacre Bleu

Old panoramic map, still in place; not much good touring for a while after 1939...

Street scene

Stimulating the local economy

Historic artsy sights and street scenes...



At a Mucha shoppe; don't think he ever did Montmartre

Utrillo sight



















Among the many historical markers, this one showing some of the great acts at
the Moulin Rouge...Colette, Edith Piaf, and, personal favorite, Le Petomane

Blowing out a candle (look it up)
Among the last of the windmills; no longer grinding
up gypsum for plaster-of-Paris
Studio we noticed in 2014 but never found open...this day we rang the bell and
the artiste appeared...
And Rebecca got herself a wonderful Arcimboldo-like
painting just right for her interests


Picasso's first studio in Paris, 1900

At another art history site, Penelope operating the show...

Matisse and Gertrude Stein

So esteemed and admired here that even unflattering
portraits are defaced...

More street scenes

Beautiful buildings
























Our journey ends

Something to think about on the long Metro ride
home

Any ride that involves a Guimard is a good one, however