Wednesday, June 19, 2019

Eating Well With Auntie Rachel

So bright and early on June 13th, Penelope's Auntie Rachel arrived for a couple days' visit en route to her chateau at Tornon-d'Agenais, in the south. (It's a long story). After shopping at the two closest markets, d'Aligre and Bastille, we let her rest in the afternoon and then headed out for a long-awaited family dinner at nearby Bistrot Paul Bert. Not surprisingly, we have been eating well throughout the past few weeks, whether out and about or dining in on French cuisine. Well, sometimes Marks and Spenser cuisine. Eating well, nonetheless.
Bistrot Paul Bert, unassuming from the outside, pretty famous inside
So preoccupied were we with other things we forgot to document the appetizer,
a terrine for some and the white asparagus for others; here's the steak a poivre,
one of the notable dishes, which certainly did not disappoint




















And the frites, best we've had on this campaign, so far



















Penelope can barely wait to dig into the souffle Grand Marnier, the Iles Flotantes,
and the lemony tart-type thing (I think)




















Us, there, the whole unextended family





















A family favorite, from our previous Paris stay, is the Creperie Bretonne, Fleurie,
on Rue de Charonne; another his and her operation; that's him, the chef, outside









P samples the cider






























Which was actually quite popular among the ladies
























Rachel bombing Rebecca's documentation pix; just like when
they were kids...


























Omelette complet;  Rebecca contends that buckwheat crepes are nearly carb-free



















Rachel's dessert crepe; possibly not carb-free
























Among new-found favorites is the Cyril Lignac patisserie; his chocolateria
and restaurant are on the facing corners




















And a new jambon store, Ham's, which jambon-expert Vicki pronounced excellent



















Hands-down favorite is still Amorino's...best gelato ever (in
France)

























Thursday, June 13, 2019

A Day On Montmartre: The Rest

On the walk down from the churches, through Montmartre, to Place Pigalle...
Us at the Love Wall
















Rebecca and Penelope

View from the Basilica du Sacre Bleu

Old panoramic map, still in place; not much good touring for a while after 1939...

Street scene

Stimulating the local economy

Historic artsy sights and street scenes...



At a Mucha shoppe; don't think he ever did Montmartre

Utrillo sight



















Among the many historical markers, this one showing some of the great acts at
the Moulin Rouge...Colette, Edith Piaf, and, personal favorite, Le Petomane

Blowing out a candle (look it up)
Among the last of the windmills; no longer grinding
up gypsum for plaster-of-Paris
Studio we noticed in 2014 but never found open...this day we rang the bell and
the artiste appeared...
And Rebecca got herself a wonderful Arcimboldo-like
painting just right for her interests


Picasso's first studio in Paris, 1900

At another art history site, Penelope operating the show...

Matisse and Gertrude Stein

So esteemed and admired here that even unflattering
portraits are defaced...

More street scenes

Beautiful buildings
























Our journey ends

Something to think about on the long Metro ride
home

Any ride that involves a Guimard is a good one, however

Wednesday, June 12, 2019

A Day On Montmartre: The Churches

On the 11th we Metro'd, walked, and funiculared our way up to Montmartre, Paris' high point and still popular tourist/historical site. Then we walked back down. First, we visited the churches, one of which was interesting. Then, the rest, mostly artsy, historico-artsy.
The very famous Basilica du Sacre Bleu, Paris landmark which, in my humble
estimation, does not warrant much interest, except for the view: has not stood
the test of time, was built in the shame of 1870, and has nothing to do with French
art nor architecture

Interior half dome; no Pantokrator

One of the many side chapels

Helpful illuminated model

Minor side-dome

Yes! There's the Panokrator, kind of hidden

The more interesting church is that of St. Pierre of Montmartre, built in 1147,
part of the abbey; re-done in the early 1900s after nearly becoming a total loss



Perhaps its most interesting features are the four gray Roman
columns, thought to have come up the hill from a Temple
of Mercury, or possibly Mars (MontMars? some speculate)

Oldest religious art in the Paris area

Merovingian capitals on the younger columns

Helpful illuminated model in the prayer-only area: I was praying that they not
catch and admonish me ("Oh Lord, we beseech thee, amen")

Choir/chancel, including another of the Roman columns; give them points for
recycling

Elevation

Another Merovingian set of capitals

Including--yes!--the symbol of lust!