Thursday, March 30, 2017

Inca Trail, 1

The Inca Trail, which Vicki wanted to walk on, is so fragile and crowded that the government now requires hikers to have guides. No guide, no Inca Trail. Not even a single step. The guide service she found, Llama Path, provides a two-day Inca Trail experience, culminating at Machu Picchu. just what we wanted. Thus, on March 10th-11th, they got us to the trail, provided a nice English-speaking guide, Charlie, and, over a day's relatively rough walk in the cloud forest, got us to Machu Picchu. Next day, Charlie gave us the Machu Picchu tour and then saw us back to our train/bus return to Cusco. Oh yes, a night in a nice hotel and several meals were included. We were quite pleased, overall. Trekking with a nice room at the end of the day, hot showers, and restaurant food and drink, is the way to go.
Alas, the day of the trip, they pick you up at 5AM at your
hotel in Cusco for a thrilling ride over the passes, in the dark,
at warp factor 6.5; more coca tea, por favor

Lower slopes of Veronica, an 18,000-footer in the vicinity

At Ollentantamby--to which we would return in a few days--
we boarded the train to Machu Picchhu

But got off at kilometer post 104

The other nice thing about trekking with
hotels and restaurants is you don't have to
carry back-breaking backpacks

Foot bridge over the Urubamba, a big river--more about which--
a major tributary to the Amazon

Obligatory shot of Vicki crossing; not nearly
as exciting without the prayer flags, zopkios,
etc.

But the Urubamba turned out to be quite as exciting as the
Dudh Kosi; and then some

Ruins near the guard station; we'd barely set foot on the Trail
when the rain began; and it continued until after Winnie
Winona, that is, well after lunch

A highlight of walking through the cloud
forest is all the vegetation--here, some exotic
rot and corruption--but also many varieties of
orchids, bromeliads, and other exotics

The sacred power lines, bringing mystical energy to Machu
Picchu, are never out of sight

Cloud forest scene; I was pretty fascinated by it all

Tiny orchids

Exotic rot and corruption; ick


Charlie mostly stayed by Vicki but kept close track of me;
lagging behind, under the pretense of taking pix...



On the Camino Inka

Beautiful huge bromeliads

The trail, rising to meet Winnie Winona, in the distance

Thus

A mini Machu Picchu, some say

Lowest terraces


Train-spotting




OK, it's Winay Wayna, not Winnie Winona


Strolling through Winay Wayna, in the rain

Tuesday, March 28, 2017

Cusco: Casa Concha, Museo Machupicchu

Yale hanger-on and self-promoter extraordinaire Hiram Bingham "discovered" Machu Picchu in 1911, and is still widely honored for his feat. Of course, he was led there by locals and employed the families living there to help clear the land and chart the "lost city of the Incas." It is all bullshit, of course, although it is what American tourists want to hear. At President Obama's urging, Yale recently returned some of the artifacts looted by Bingham and his associates, and they are housed in the Casa Concha museum. Of course, Bingham is still glorified there, but, for a variety of reasons, the museum still is eminently worth visiting. It's complicated.

The introductory film...a very bitter-sweet memory for me...

Mostly, it's about Bingham

Great historical photos


Thus

Many colorized

Today's quipu

Seriously helpful model

Maybe best ever

Incan textile

Perhaps the best reason for visiting Casa Concha is this, the interactive tour of the
Machu Picchu site, done by Yale and Cal State/Hayward; it allows you to travel
the site, enlarge pix, hear from scholars, look at historical pix--an incredible virtual
tour that would enhance any tour

Artifacts

Pretty incredible dioramae

Actual grave fnds

Not to forget, the building was once someone's palace




Incan stonework

So there we were, wandering into what might have been a gift shoppe, and there
is the guy from YouTube that Rebecca sent us a Twisted Sifter post about...of
course we bought Penelope one of the bird flutes...amazing stuff...
http://twistedsifter.com/videos/inca-whistling-water-vessels-mimic-animal-calls/


Cusco: Qorikancha

While we visited several churches and other sites in Cusco, there were only two museums that really interested us: Qorikancha, aka the Saint Dominic Priory, and the Casa Concha, the Machu Picchu museum that features the Yale University items returned to Peru from the Hiram Bingham expeditions of 1911-1912. Qorikancha is a monastery built over the foundations of a major Incan site, the temples of the sun and the moon and such. As elsewhere, the Incan building, well, the traces of it, are impressive, the stone work, the scope, etc. FWIW, this is the building whose gold-plated walls, golden sculpture, and other objects took the Spanish three months to melt down and cart away.
Approaching Qorikancha; the lower curved bit is characteristically
Incan

Closer up

Floor plan, for the greater glory, etc.

Incan remains

Trapezoidal door...the Incans loved the circus,
especially the daring young man on the flying
trapezoid

Helpful model #1,343

Cloister; interesting to see all the Spanish architecture not
overlaying the more impressive Moorish precedents

Spare parts

Holy Circumcision #1,227

Crowning Mary Queen of Heaven; note the
interesting depiction of the Holy Threesome,
all the same person, three aspects of which...
and no White Dove and no Old Guy with
White Beard...

Outside, looking at the Incan stone work; integral buttressing
writ large

Nicely landscaped, as nearly all these sites are

The famous 14-angled stone

Larger perspective

Muy interessant...The Incans saw gods and animals in the
heavens, like the Greeks and Romans and others, but they
saw them via the negative space; see illustration; better yet,
go look at the Milky Way

Inside the curvy bit

If they could do this, how come they never figured out an arch?