Monday, July 27, 2015

Allee Couverte Near Bretteville

The signs of political subdivision say we are still in Normandy. But the granite, the rising land, the rugged coast, the purple heath, and the megaliths all announce we are in Brittany. Just a mile or so from our campsite was our first megalith of this trip, a large and well preserved allee couverte in the heights near Bretteville. This is as far east as we have seen such a thing here, and never in Normandy. But there it was. An allee couverte is a covered passage tomb, sometimes a chambered tomb. Typically there would be two rows of megaliths, surmounted by a megalith roof. And typically, the whole would have been buried under a tumulus or mound. In Brittany, tumuli have often been mistaken for natural hills. The one near Bretteville has lost it tumulus--most we know of have--but it is in good shape and perhaps 20 meters in length.
We arrived fairly early in the morning and surprised the county maintenance
guy who had just finished mowing and cleaning the place up 


















When I produced my camera, he rushed to remove all his work implements, but I
said, non, si vous plait, and he appeared to understand I thought the shovel would
be a nice touch, showing our appreciation of his good work


















Anyhow, here's the allee couverte from a variety of perspectives
















Out in a farmer's fields, as they almost always area
















Big stones; no carving we saw
















Nice view
















In only one or two bays was the capstone knocked down
or missing





















It's impossible to date these things with precision--once they have been plundered,
probably millennia ago, they have been contaminated or all the datable stuff removed
--in any case, allee couvertes in France generally are thought to be in the 4,000-
6,000 year old range

Anse Du Brick

We spent the night at a scenic lay-by/picnic area called Anse du Brick, about 10 miles short of Cherbourg. One other RV evenutally pulled in, and it was a quiet night.
Thus
















Back up the road
















Above and behind us; we left the limestone cliffs way behind; now the cliffs and
the interior are granite; it already feels like Brittany, but we are not quite there


















Looking toward Cherbourg
















Just out of sight, but never hard to find

Tocqueville

Our route took us through Tocqueville, home town of Alexis de Tocqueville, the author of Democracy in America (1835), the first and still classic analysis of American society and governance. If you are or were into civil society and related notions, this is your Genesis.
Thus
















Himself
















Not that Tocqueville, Lyndel

Barfleur

Next stop was Barfleur, a pretty seaside village on the northeast tip of the peninsula that is part tourism and part fishing. We spent the afternoon there before moving on in the direction of Cherbourg.
Barfleur harbor
















Up closer
















A lot of pleasure and recreation boats, but this is a real, working
fishing village

















Thus, and many more
















Inside Barfleur's parish church
















The British monitor Erebus; served in both World Wars; her
only heavy armament was a single turret of two 15" guns; at
off-shore range, the German batteries with their 4" guns
were no match for this little monster; she silenced some of
the main batteries at Utah Beach; one of many historical 
exhibits in town



















A fishing boat heads into the harbor
















A large medallion on a rock at the harbor entrance tells us that
William the Conqueror's ship was built at Barfleur

















Barfleur light house
















Channel traffic
















I think Becket met with King Henry or with the papal legates
in Barfleur; in any case, everybody wants part of the Becket
action


















Pretty town, Barfleur

Sunday, July 26, 2015

St. Vaast La Hogue

We continued driving north on the east side of the Cotentin Peninsula, stopping at St. Vaaste La Hogue. For a lunch-time view, we drove out to one of the two Vauban towers that guard the harbor. Vauban was Louis XIV's military advisor and architect. The French had suffered a bruising naval defeat in the vicinity and wanted the harbor better defended. After lunch, we drove into the town center to buy oysters. St. Vaast oysters are among the most highly prized in France.
One of the two towers; note German gun emplacement nearby
















The other Vauban tower a few miles away
















For the French, every meal, even on the road, seems to be a repast; we're a little
less ambitious...

















Where to buy your St. Vaast oysters













I bought a dozen #2s; it's hard not to over-indulge when you're buying huge, high-
quality  oysters for $7 a dozen; plus, I'm getting pretty good with the oyster knife;
this was night #2, a prelude to the poached salmon

Utah Beach

We've seen Omaha Beach and related sites on several occasions, but I think this was our first visit to Utah Beach. Always in a hurry to get to Brittany and its megalithics, but not so this time.
Among the memorials was this, built atop and within a German
gun battery on the beach

















Thus
















The battery was taken June 6 and became the headquarters
for landing operation; the names of those who fell are inscribed
on the walls...


















Utah Beach, looking toward Omaha Beach
















Monument to US naval forces, who bombarded, transported,
landed, and continued support for D-Day

















One of many Sherman M-4s in this part of the world; I've read
that there is only one left that still runs

















Landing wreckage
















Further north on the beach, a monument at the
place where General LeClerc and the French
division landed; they would liberate Paris two
months later as part of Patton's 3rd Army Group























And everywhere, on the beaches, the fields, and a couple miles
inland where the land rises...German gun emplacements,
batteries, everywhere, seemingly more than we have seen before


















Thus
















And thus
















But a message worth pondering: "Who changes the children,
changes the world"

D'Isigny Land

From Bayeux we drove on to a nice but very popular aire in Isigny sur Mer. Isigny is one of Normandy's great dairy towns; one of the most popular dairy brands is Isigny Ste. Mere. There are no statues in town, but it is widely asserted that the Disneys (Walt, Mickey, Minnie) came from here, stopping first in Ireland to acquire a surname (from Isigny) and then simplifying the spelling upon arrival in the New World. The aire was quiet and scenic and we decided to do another administrative day.
The aire at Isigny sur Mer
















Another marina type situation, only this on a canal that leads,
a couple kilometers away, to the Channel; note the boats are
all high and dry; the canal is the little trench to the right


















And here we are at high tide
















Because of the canal, Isigny used to be a port of some relative
significance--it was known as the "cow port" because of the
Isigny Ste. Mere plant--but the canal started silting up and they
tried using these "Guideaux" to marshal the tidal flow and
sweep the canal clean 



















Didn't work, and the Guideaux are now part of the marina's
decor

















Anyhow, it's a pretty town
















Americans, Canadians, British very much
welcomed





















13th century parish church; no funny faces
















Plenty of beautiful landscaping, however
















Thus
















It was here that General De Gaulle made his first public remarks
after returning to France, in June, 1944

















Another French example of taking the library to the people