Mayer van der Bergh Museum

Our next stop was another "small" museum, but another with a collection of great interest, the Museum Mayer van der Bergh. Mayer van der Bergh himself was another Antwerp patrician/collector, 19th century, who scored a great number of important acquisitions. The museum is his house.

Rubens, of course; his Faun and Nymph; but it's mostly the
14th-16th century stuff that is of interest to us

E.g., Rogier van der Weyden's Maria Lactans

Juan de Flandes Herod's Feast

Franz Pourbus' Prodigal Son

The big draw for us was Peter Brueghel the Elder's famous Mad Meg,
storming the gates of hell

An image off the web; museum lighting, particularly in old houses (and
cathedrals), is rarely optimal; Breughel's 12 Proverbs, sitting right by
Mad Meg, was almost unviewable for the glare

Mad Meg herself

The mouth of hell; Breughels at this Boschish best;
the details are always fascinating; alas, Mad Meg is a bit
misogynist in meaning; but still fun to look at

Peter Huys' Temptations of Anthony

Across the room, Younger Breughel's Winter in Bethlehem, a  copy from dad,
I think; there's probably a miniscule manger scene in there somewhere

Jan Gossaert's interesting Mary Magdalene

And finally, another of the ever popular Temptations of Saint Anthony,
this one by Marten de Vos; "Anthonys" afford the painter many interesting
opportunities for exploration...

Thus

And thus

Antwerp Cathedral Art

Antwerp's Cathedral is quite old and quite large, nave and three aisles on each side, although the outside aisles seem more like separate chapels. It's not terrifically high, nor interesting, architecturally. It's had a long and difficult history, with much remodeling. Work continues and it's going to be beautiful when finished.

Nave view

In one of the aisle/chapels; I was commenting
that this chancel would really be happier in
Spain, and Vicki reminded me that, in this age,
Antwerp was in Spain

Priestly vestment version of the ever popular
Tree of Jesse

Lots of colorful but not very old glass

Nice angelic painter...

But what most visitors come to see here are the colossal
Rubens altar pieces

Thus

And thus

Detail of which, illustrating the principle that blondes have
more fun

Main chancel, showing the position of

Rubens' Assumption of Mary

The chapel in which Rubens' Resurrection of Jesus resides
is being renovated; hence this copy

The beautiful oak pulpit by Michiel van der
Voort, supported by the Four Continents

Rockox House

One of the finest of small museums anywhere is the House of Nicholaas Rockox, a 17th century Antwerp patrician and collector. These days it is enhanced by many works from the nearby Royal Museum of Fine Arts, which is being renovated. We spent most of the day here before moving on to the cathedral. Again, the emphasis is local and 14th-17th centuries, which suited us fine. The paintings I'm not posting are nearly as good or famous as the one's I am posting.

Jean Fouquet's mid-15th century Madonna with cherubim
and seraphim; the model was said to be Agnes Sorel,
Charles VII's mistress; condemned as blasphemous by
many, the Surrealists made the "fashion doll" one of their
icons

Antonella da Messina's Calvary; an Italian
painter in Flanders; done between 1457-1460

Rogier van der Weyden's Portrait of 
Philippe de Croy

Festival of the Archers, by the Master of
Frankfurt; he and his wife are in the painting,
lower right, standing above the fence,
recognizable from

The Painter and His Wife; so why did the
Master of Frankfurt paint the huge fly on his
wife's head?

Peter the Younger Brueghel's copy of the Elder's famous
Proverbs, which we saw--studied--in Berlin

Detail worth pondering...

Jan Massijs' Judith

Marinus van Reymerswale The Tax Collector;
nobody likes tax collectors; they always get
funny hats

Much going on in Antoine Steenwinkel's
Vanitas Portrait of the Painter

Joos van Cleve's Jesus and John (that's what
the note said)

Rubens' Venus Frigida, illustrating Terence's line that
without Ceres and Bacchus, Venus would freeze; hunger
and thirst put a chill on love...

Franz Francken's An Art Gallery; I like the gallery shots,
but none of the biggies ever painted them

The Five Senses, by Gonzales Coques (his self-portrait is
the one behind the vase, the sense of taste)

Rubens' Prodigal Son; he never sold this one, kept it for
himself until he died

One wall of one room in this museum; in the center is
Rubens' Memorial Triptych for Nicholas Rockox; other
masterworks all over the place...

Antwerp 2

More of Antwerp...

On one of our walks we ducked into this old
alley--sort of like the traboules in Lyons--and were
rewarded with a number of old views

Thus

And thus

Some 1,000 Madonna and Child sculptures
adorn old Antwerp; sculptors donated such
works hoping to get noticed; so we read

Famous well and iron work

Antwerp performing arts theater; we had lunch one day
nearby

They do fries in Antwerp too

Durer lived for a time in Antwerp, celebrated
by assorted plaques, paintings, and so forth

But Antwerp belongs to the guy who helped design this
church, and whom, I would argue, is the greatest of all
painters, at least as measured by square meters of
acknowledged masterpieces 

Rubens; we'll see his House, his paintings in
the Cathedral and in two of Antwerp's
museums; we've seen his work in most of the
museums we have visited in Europe; we are
not Rubens fans; but you have to pay
homage when in Antwerp

Antwerp 1

After three pleasant days in Amsterdam, we drove back to Antwerp, a city we'd never visited before. The traffic jams were gone, and we found our way easily to the municipal camper stop at Antwerp Expo, about a 10 minute bus ride to the historic district. Antwerp has some great museums which were our primary goals. But first some pix of this beautiful city from our various walks...

In the main square, the cathedral tower above, from the next
big square over

Another beautiful old city square

As elsewhere in this part of the world, guild houses...

Ditto

Beautiful city

Famous fountain

Attempted artsy-fartsy shot of guild house and cathedral
tower; atop the guild house is a sailing ship, emblematic,
for me, anyway, of Antwerp's historic (and contemporary)
importance as one of the world's great ports

Antwerp's cathedral; in another post, we'll
go inside, mostly for the art

Judgment typanum over the main west door; nice Jaws of Hell
on the right side