Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Everest Trek Out-Takes, 2

The trail above Namche, with Everest in view














Basic signage; our guide, Mingma Tshirng Sherpa, knew the
way, and much more; and had a cousin in every village















Entering legendary Tengboche














With more views of the mountain and


















The famous monastery














Dazzling interior














On up the trail, House of Elrond














Water-driven prayer wheel; not sure of the theological
ramifications...















Ancient mani stones all along the way














For several days, Ama Dablam, regarded by some as the
most beautiful of mountains, dominates the view















Closer up 














Closer up still; 22,349 feet


















Another guest-house room, in Pangboche 














Yak patties drying in the sun; major source of fuel at this
altitude, now getting over 14,000 feet















Not one of the more impressive bridges














The acclimatization program requires that you stop and, um,
acclimatize, every thousand feet or so, taking a day off;
here Vicki does the week's wash; we learned the next
morning the importance of taking the clothes off the line
and indoors before night-fall...


















In the restaurant/communal room of yet another guest-
house, higher-up still, at Dingboche, as I recall
















Tuesday, October 18, 2011

Everest Trek Out-Takes, 1

While not traveling, here in Menlo Park, I am going through the 87 gazillion pix I have taken these past three years (and also the 87 gazillon 35mm slides I took prior to about 2005; digitizing them, 4 at a time), and have resolved to post some of the pix that should have been blogged in earlier segments of our travels. When we did the Everest trek three years ago, I posted very few pictures on the blog. Connections were infrequent and of inconsistent quality, and I hadn't yet figured out whether the blog was going to be more words or more pictures. So here, and in the next few posts (it was a three week undertaking), are some pix and a little commentary on our 2008 Everest trek. You can find the original Everest trek posts using the keyword search feature on this site, or by clicking on Nepal in the tag cloud at the very, very bottom of the page, or simply by going to October, 2008.
In Thamel, the touristy section of Kathmandu, Nepal, where
one goes to do the Everest trek (from Nepal, anyway);
Thamel is a riot of everything...commerce, people, food and
drink, nationalities and ethnicities, travelers and trekkers,
touts and louts; and some wonderful Nepalese


















Kathmandu airport, domestic terminal; another riot; we
would never have found our plane without the assistance
of Dawa Geljien Sherpa, our handler and savior
















En route to Lukla from Kathmandu aboard Yeti Airlines and
a Twin Otter aircraft; click to enlarge and read the pilot's
take-off and landing check-lists; two days after we marched
off from Lukla, one of these craft crashed on landing, killing
all but the co-pilot


















Aircraft carrier Lukla; 9100 feet altitude; 12 degree gradient;
they say it is 1500 feet long, but I wouldn't give it 1000 feet;
there are some great videos on YouTube and elsewhere of
landings and take-off's; it's at the head of a hanging box
canyon, so you only get one chance...


















And we're on the trail from Lukla, two days to Namche
Bazaar, approaching the first of scores of Buddhist
billboards--centuries old, carved and then painted...
















In a guest-house on the trail; spartan, and sometimes
dubious sanitation; but at $2-$4 a night, not over-priced;
they make their money mostly in the restaurant, more
about which later

















Touching up a prayer wheel; prayer wheels and
associated religious paraphrenalia everywhere















Welcome to Mt. Everest National Park














More billboards














One awakes many mornings on the trail to the sound of
stone masons; there is not a lot of lumber up here, but a
lot of stone, and nearly everything is made of stone; beyond
Lukla, nearly everything is carried on the backs of porters or
zopkios and yaks to the several villages above


















On one of many, many bridges over the Dudh Kosi, coming
down the Khumbu















Nearly all high suspension bridges like this, bedecked with
prayer flags















Entering Namche Bazaar, stupa and walls of prayer wheels;
Namche is the last "big" town on the trail, last chance for
equipment, provisions, meat....
















Namche from above, as you head on up the trail














Thamserku from Namche














First sight of Everest, on the trail above Namche (it's the
distant peak between us)

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Dear Missoula

I was up early, before the beginning of the Saturday book festival morning sessions, and walked a block to what I regard as Missoula's center, the Higgins Avenue Bridge over the Clark Fork of the Columbia River. It's a city of 60,000, a regional center and a university town, in a state with less than a million total population. I suppose there must be better instances of blend between the natural and the built. I haven't found any yet. Beautiful place, beautiful people.... We have to get back there...
Down-river from the bridge...Brennan's Wave, an artificial
wave built to honor a world-class Missoula kayaker who
died in Chile some years ago














The "historic" Wilma Theatre; where the book festival's
larger events are held; and, beyond, the art deco Florence
Hotel, where Rachel and Will had their wedding reception;
from the bridge














Also from the bridge, the Saturday morning farmers' market,
west annex (the larger and older market is by the Xs, three
blocks away) 














Other side of the bridge, Caras Park, one of several civic
centers







Other side still, old Milwaukee Station, now home of the
Boone and Crockett Club (yes, that Boone, that Crockett);
founded by Teddy Roosevelt, Gifford Pinchot, William
Tecumseh Sherman, and other conservation-minded pals





















A block up-river, Mount Sentinel above the University of
Montana campus














Of all the places we have lived, it is the best; but there
is this one draw-back, starting always in October...up
high...






























Taking off from Missoula Sunday afternoon; the Mission
Mountains, pretty much the view from our front porch for
ten years...

2011 Montana Festival of the Book

On Wednesday, following our trip to Yosemite, I flew up to Missoula to attend the 12th annual Montana Festival of the Book, an event I founded in 2000, when I was director of the Montana Committee for the Humanities, now Humanities Montana. I could write reams about this event and other humanities matters in Montana, which would interest very few people, any of whom would have their own relevant and valid views. But the festival is an ongoing matter, among several of which I remain very proud from my years in Montana, and I have the greatest affection for the many people who joined with me in 1999 and 2000, and subsequently, and who have kept the festival vibrant and vital all these years. Foremost among these is Kim Anderson, who came to "coordinate" the festival in 2000. I had the good luck and good sense to hire her then, and she has been a prime mover and planner of it since the beginning. I think nearly all of the greatest living writers of the American West have appeared at the festival in one year or another, many more than once...and many others...poets, writers of fiction and non-fiction, historians, political commentators, authors of cookbooks, trail guides, and always much, much more. The Festival is at humanitiesmontana.org and associated Facebook and Flickr sites. In any case, it was wonderful to see and visit with so many old friends and associates, and some new ones. And my sincere thanks to Kim and Neil for their hospitality.

And see the postscript, Mayor John Engen's beautiful welcome from the opening night of the festival.
Bill Kittredge introduces














Tom McGuane














Germaine White's session on the restoration of bull trout
in the Jocko River; published by the University of Nebraska
Press; Germaine was vice chair of my board in 1997
















Poetry dispenser at the registration desk


















My successor, Ken Egan, introduces the panel for the
"Coen Brothers' Cinematic West"; "careful, man, there's
 a beverage here"















Friday night--family night--at the Top Hat; only in Montana















Followed by the 3 hour poetry slam; just
about the most electrifying word-event I
have ever seen; 250 in attendance per
the management; mostly about performance,
but I keenly suspect that that was mostly
what Homer was about; for me, the most
electrifying reading was Debra Earling's 2003
reading of the original unpublished ending
of Perma Red; the next gala reader, Tim
Cahill, turned to me and said "I can't follow
that!" and we took a brief unscheduled
intermission to let everyone recompose and
reset; and then there was Chuck Palahniuk
a few years later; but I digress..."all
them memories come floodin' back"






























Rick Bass; just for the record, I became convinced of the
importance of Montana writers on a late 90s visit to Paris
and a Left Bank bookstore table of Rick's books
















Kiddie time at the festival, with Snow White, Grumpy, and
Corduroy the Bear; I am now much more attuned to kiddie
time...
















Just for the record, again...the festival really began at a
lunch in Bozeman (or was it Big Sky?)  in 1999 when I pitched
the idea to Jim and Lois Welch and Bill Bevis; it was
certainly of no moment to them; but when Jim Welch allowed
it might be a good idea and, yes, he would participate, it was
a done deal for me...here, Lois introduces...


















Mary Clearman Blew


























































Festival of the Book 2011

"Why is Missoula, Montana, home to so many writers?"

That's the sort of question you get asked when you're the mayor of Missoula, Montana. And while your first instinct is to offer a matter-of-fact reply, something like: "We believe it has much to do with the abundant availability of inexpensive liquor," you know there's a more appropriate answer.

When you're born in Missoula, Montana, you're likely to take for granted the sense of place that folks long forgotten worked to cultivate and later preserve. You assume that the guy moving your piano is a poet and the woman pouring your coffee has a reading tonight at your independent bookstore and that your state's poet laureate connects school kids, many of them outsiders, to words and that those words lead to self-expression and that expression leads to realization and that realization leads to fully formed human beings who think for themselves and believe that some stuff in this life still matters in the midst of all this relentless damn noise and nonsense.

You take for granted that our piece of the West, while populated in part with images of Justin Bieber and some Real Housewives of Somewhere Else, is still a bit spare. There's still enough room to be lonely and, if you want, alone. You take for granted that the weather changes, that most of us are still in the same boat, that you've got to work, one way or another, to make it work here, and it ain't always easy.

You take for granted that people of character provide fodder for characters and that the facts are all over the place but you've got to look hard for the truth and one of the ways you do that is by fighting with words over sound and cadence and meaning and depth until you embrace a sentence that's just about perfect for the moment. And you add that sentence to the last hard-won turn of phrase and start in on the next one.

You take all that for granted when you're born here. But if you're from a place that's no longer a place and you ache for a reality that fuels imagination and you're a writer, want to be a writer or will become a writer despite your better judgment and warnings from family and friends, Missoula, Montana, is a discovery. It's a place and it's a place for writers. They are welcome, admired, respected and most likely have day jobs.

And if all that weren't enough, there's a book festival here every year. And it starts now.

Welcome, folks, to Missoula, Montana.

My name's John Engen, I'm the mayor, I'm a writer, and these welcoming remarks are titled "The Chamber of Commerce Will Not Approve."