Unfinished Cathedral at Batalha

Cathedral of Batalha, really flaming gothic

West facade, with the "founders' chapel" to the right;

founders being earliest kings, queens, etc., of Portugal

At the east end, the unfinished chapel...no roof,

but otherwise pretty overwhelming

Nave view...purity, great size and height

Dome of the founders' chapel

Tomb of first king and queen,

14th century, Joao I and his wife,

Philippa of Lancaster (Portugal and

England have been pals for a long

time; they had a common rival)

On the right, her Tudor coat of arms (really ties things

together...)

Tomb of their son, Prince Henry, the Navigator,

generally credited with kicking off the Age of Discovery

Beautiful stained glass, more Moorish-

looking than Christan, we thought (well,

excluding the coats of arms)

Looking into the incredible unfinished chapel,

at the other end

Another king and queen, holding hands, in the unfinished

chapel

Finished ceiling in one of the side-chapels

of the unfinished chapel

Interesting figures around the floor of the unfinished chapel

(scores of these); reminded us of some of the secular

Norman figures we saw near Hereford

In the market adjacent; we're going to get

one of these yard sprinklers as soon as we

have a yard again

We proceeded on, hoping to catch a few of the small town sights before getting to Lisbon. First was the most impressive cathedral--well, big church--at Batalha. It is really high gothic, 14th century and later, contains some precious tombs, and much more.

Stimulating the Local Artisanales

A few miles out of Coimbra, we stopped at a decorative tile

artists studio/shop to pick up a few specimen souvenirs,

hopefully, the real thing from real artisans

The owner's cute 2-year old; how many 2-year-olds do you

know that could be trusted to play in a china shop?

 

Some of the stuff

More

Forum Shopping Center, Coimbra

This shopping center was as large and nice as anything I have seen. Interestingly, though relatively upscale, it had no large department-store anchors at all.

Every now and then, you need something
more than just experiencing breath-taking scenery,
visiting museums and palaces, exploring old
neighborhoods and sampling local food and
drink. Your need...a shopping center!

From the top of the old upper city, at first,
I though this must be the local futbol stadium
or at least the bull-fighting arena; but no, it
was the very large and very nice Forum
Shopping Center; so, for those of you who
have always wondered what a Portugese
shopping center looks like, here are some views...

The cineplex; the whole third story is food
court...nice restaurants as well as the usual...
plus the cineplex and a bowling alley (let's roll, dude)

The Portugese do ham too, though not as
extravagantly as the Spanish

Wider, escalator view

At the Continente supermercado, the salted cod department

Our Google-translator is still working on
this large display smack in the middle of the
2nd floor of the shopping center; I am not
at all certain what is going on in the depiction,
but if you google "HighCareCenter" you'll
see that franchises are available

Coimbra University

Up at the end of the main drag, you turn right, pass the big mercado, and then 
take the funicular up to the upper old city and the university; here's a view of 
the funicular

In university neighborhoods, outside a publica, that is, a frat house; the Cheneys 
and William Bennett expended considerable energy wondering "why they hate us"; 
jeez, I hope it's not really McDonald's...

The old new cathedral

English spoken here

Much of the university was built during the decades-long 
Salazar regime (Franco's pal), so much of the architecture 
and adornment is national/romantic or social/realist or

whatever/whatever

Inside the old university courtyard, the great hall and clock tower; it was originally 
the royal palace; Portugal was won back from the Moors a bit ahead of Spain, and 
the capital was here until Lisbon was re-conquered

The university's old library, the Biblioteca, which houses many thousands of 
rare old manuscripts

A clandestine shot inside the library

More beautiful old tile work, this in a stairway of the grand hall (no pix inside)

Coimbra, Portugal

From Vigo, we crossed a bridge and found ourselves in another new, to us, country, Portugal; also a new language, superficially like Spanish; anyhow, our first stop was the beautiful university town of Coimbra, where we stayed two nights at the excellent municipal campground and road the bus back and forth into town.

Ground-zero in Coimbra, a very hilly city of half a million 

(in the larger environs)

Very hilly

The Santa Cruz church (I forgot to use the

fat guy filter)

Tiles everywhere in Portugal, their speciality, and best in

the churches

Interior of the church

Organ; note the out-facing trumpets, an

Iberian pecularity

More incredible tile work

The altar, and steps leading to heaven

And next door, formerly part of the church,

the very famous Santa Cruz cafe, where we

later had pastels and coffee

Interior of the cafe

The women's room, Vicki confessed, is the former confessional

Spanish Mussels

In Ireland, Scandinavia, the UK, then France, I had nearly given up on mussels. 
They were so tiny, I felt like I was engaging in mussel-infanticide, maybe 
endangering the species. Yes, perhaps the New Zealand greenies have spoiled 
me. But, on the north coast of Spain, we ran into some monster-mussels, 
absolutely  rivaling the largest Kiwi mussels. This black puppy measured 3 and 
3/4 inches and was plumply luscious.

From our campsite in Vigo--we finally turned south and it immediately grew 
warmer--the Vigo castle; actually, it was one of the stranger aires we have parked 
in, a water tap and a designated autocaravana parking place; but it was enough

Santiago de Compostuela

It was not the right time of year to see pilgrims, but we did

see plenty of signs, hostels, gift shoppes, scallop shells

(St. Iago=St. Jacques, as in Coquille St. Jacques), etc.

On the outskirts of Santiago, Sunday afternoon, a giant

market

Galicia is the Celtic part

of Spain; really

The ultra-baroque west facade of the Cathedral of Santiago

de Compostuela ("stuela"--the stars allegedly led the

shepherd to the hidden grave of St. James)

In the cathedral gift shoppe--lots of scallop shells, hiking

staffs, hats (like Gandalf's), brown robes; the pilgrimage,

properly done, requires a full costume

St. James was known at the Matamoros--the Moor killer--

alleged to have assisted the reconquista in forty different

battles, as far away as Peru in the 16th century (Moors?

really?), sometimes killing 60,000 Moors at a battle;

after turning both cheeks, one presumes

Inside the not-altogether impressive cathedral,

the choir and altar and such, with the giant

swinging incense burner (pilgrims didn't bathe

all that often)

Electric candles to burn, a euro each; eco-responsible...

St. Jimmy's bones; or someone's

Cathderal clock tower

"A wandering minstrel, I..."

We parked next to this sign, out in the university

neighborhoods, and walked, uphill, to the old city and the

cathedral, for which I think we should be awarded at least

a little time off in Purgatory; we left very quietly, too

St. Jimmy of the Compost-Pile--I won't go far into matters of despicable ecclesiastical fraud--the Camino de Santiago was one of the 2 or 3 great pilgrim routes of the middle ages; the subject of the very first travel guide even. St. James was Jesus' cousin, who preached in Spain after The Crucifiction, returned to Palestine, got beheaded, and then had his bones shipped to Spain to be buried secretly, only to be found in the 8th century, just in time for the reconquista. (As the travel writer Richard Ford said, if you can believe a Galilean preached in Spain in the first century, you shouldn't have too much trouble believing any of the rest of it.) For doing the pilgrimage, you got half-time off in Purgatory.The trail had been forgotten pretty much in modern times, but, a few decades ago, some enterprising persons managed to piece it back together, and it has become a respectable cultural/eco-tourism trek, some 500 miles of it, from various directions. Another UNECSO site, I believe. We weaved back and forth across the trail countless times in our westward drive, and, upon finally reaching Santiago, visited the famous cathedral.