Snowmobiling the American West, 2003-2008*

We moved to Missoula, Montana, in 1995, first me, then Vicki and Rachel, in 1996. It snows in Montana, a lot in the high country, some years, not so much really in the western valleys, except a couple years. We figured quite early that a winter recreation would be handy, and the logical choice was skiing, the cross country variety. This delusion lasted one lesson, at the end of which I fell and broke and bruised some ribs. Laughing was very painful for a couple months. The doctor prescribed snow shoes, and the next winter we began going out on weekends to get experience in our brand new Atlas snow shoes. The thing about snow shoe-ing, we noticed, is that it doesn't take you very far. It's really great aerobic exercise, but you're basically slogging along at 1 mph. On short winter days, this means you're never going to get more that a few miles from the parking lot. Unless, of course, you plan on over-nighting in a tent with sleeping bags and all the other paraphrenalia required for comfort. And survival.

Sometime in the late 90s when Rebecca was visiting for Xmas, the four of us rented a couple of two-up snowmobiles and spent a day snowmobiling around Seely Lake and the Swan Mountains, not very far from Missoula. Vicki has always been the driving force in our snowmobile adventures (though rarely the driver), and she was intrigued. I was rather more impressed with the noise and sickening pollution of the two-stroke machines and with the snowmobiling "culture" generally.

A few years passed, and then we spent another weekend examining the snowmobile thing from West Yellowstone, with two exceptional days in the Park. The rental machines, even then in the early 00s, were the new and relatively quiet four-stroke machines. I was impressed. The Park had not yet required them, but the matter was under discussion, and one could see that if snowmobiles were allowed at all, they would have to be the four-strokers. 75dB. And far less pollution than any of the three million cars, busses, and trucks that traverse the Park annually. And then there were the extraordinary sights to see and experiences to have on the trail. We both were impressed.

So much so that we bought a 2003 Bombardier, a two-up Grand Touring Ski-Doo, with a 1000cc Rotax engine, that had a season's prior use as a rental in Yellowstone. Very light use and low mileage. And then we rigged it up with gear and saddle bags and everything we figured we would need for longer distance snow touring and emergencies. And bought the obligatory snow suits and helmets and boots and gloves. (Beware any hobby that requires a special wardrobe; especially with 12v connections for heat). And a trailer, first the cheap, light open variety and then a more substantial, enclosed 12 footer. We already had a small 4WD truck/camper. And then we spent the next five seasons snowmobiling all over western Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho, paradise for anyone interested in "getting out there," mountain snowmobiling and seeing some of the West's great sights in winter.

In five years of this, we never encountered any friends, colleagues, associates, or even acquaintances who were into snowmobiling. (Except the superintendent of Yellowstone, but that's another story.) The disapproval (and misunderstanding) was always a bit less than overt among green friends and associates. My several NPS friends did give me a hard time over it, now and then, but it was always good-natured and cognizant of the fact that we owned probably the only tree-hugging four-stroke machine in Montana at the time. And, unlike practically everyone else, winter had become our favorite season!

Our truck and trailer in the later years; except for the year
I turned the truck over on Homestake Pass near Butte; both
sold in 2008, when we sold everything...except the
snowmobile itself, which remains in storage in Missoula;
and for sale...

Vicki on our rig, the Swan Mountains in the background;
we made many trips to Seely and environs, and several
times did or tried the long run from there to Lincoln

Snowmobiling somewhere in Montana

Plenty of snow most years

On the summit of Big Mountain, a ski area near Whitefish

Near West Yellowstone, the Tetons in the distance

Vicki playing in the snow

Me resting

Alas, it was not all fun and games; a 1000cc machine, with
two people and much gear aboard, is heavy; it took us
quite a few tries to learn that we could never ever get off
the groomed trail; here I am digging us out on the Grassy
Lake Trail, which connects Ashton, ID with the Flagg
Ranch in WY, more about which anon

After too many of these experiences,
riding mostly alone but frequently
benefiting from the kindness of other
snowmobilers, we finally bought
and carried a winch, which we used
more than once; a lot more than once

*from the Archives of the Sherouse Family Digitization Project