Sunday it rained heavily all day at Milford Sound. We sat around at the lodge, visiting with tramp acquaintances, reading, watching waterfalls form on the cliffs above, watching those old rain drops fall. Even the internet was out of service. We had thought about taking a the shuttle into “town” to dine at the Blue Duck, the lone eating establishment in Milford Sound (there is also a motel and a defunct gas station—that's it), but opted eventually for another camper meal cooked in the lodge kitchen: Indian butter chicken, basmati rice, and a great Ozzie ginger beer, Bundaburg.
Monday dawned bright, cool, and sunny, with a few low clouds over the fiord. Vicki had scheduled us for a 7:15 AM kayak trip, so we rose quite early, packed up, ate, and shuttled down to the Sound to don our cold-water kayaking costumes (provided by the vendor, Roscoe's of Milford Sound). The change of clothing took place in a large tent (women) and outside (men), both exposed to the ravages of the worst sand fly attacks we have yet seen. The way we tramp and dress, only our hands, faces, and necks are exposed, and these are marinated daily in 100% DEET. (Viet Nam War surplus from CampMor, purchased in about 1976, I think. The stuff is powerful and goes a long way. It has removed the paint from my aluminum ice axe and other implements; but the the mosquitoes and sand flies evidently don't like it.) It is amazing how quickly one can change pants and shirts when one really needs to.
The morning kayak trip was most enjoyable, just the right length, little exertion, great vistas, no wind, and the fiord as placid as a calm lake. The only ripples were those of the passing cruise boats. (More pix when those from the disposable marine camera are developed and digitized). After another quick change and lunch at the Blue Duck, we caught the 2:30 bus to Te Anau. Normally, bus rides aren't all that great, but this one took us through Homer Tunnel and then through glacial canyons larger than any I've ever seen. The only thing NZ lacks, scenically, we have observed, is the Grand Canyon, and here we were, mile after mile, in what the Grand Canyon would look like if it were covered in rain forest and surmounted by peaks and glaciers. We're vowed to drive back to Milford Sound to see it all again, just before embarking on the Routeburn Tramp Thursday morning.
Monday dawned bright, cool, and sunny, with a few low clouds over the fiord. Vicki had scheduled us for a 7:15 AM kayak trip, so we rose quite early, packed up, ate, and shuttled down to the Sound to don our cold-water kayaking costumes (provided by the vendor, Roscoe's of Milford Sound). The change of clothing took place in a large tent (women) and outside (men), both exposed to the ravages of the worst sand fly attacks we have yet seen. The way we tramp and dress, only our hands, faces, and necks are exposed, and these are marinated daily in 100% DEET. (Viet Nam War surplus from CampMor, purchased in about 1976, I think. The stuff is powerful and goes a long way. It has removed the paint from my aluminum ice axe and other implements; but the the mosquitoes and sand flies evidently don't like it.) It is amazing how quickly one can change pants and shirts when one really needs to.
The morning kayak trip was most enjoyable, just the right length, little exertion, great vistas, no wind, and the fiord as placid as a calm lake. The only ripples were those of the passing cruise boats. (More pix when those from the disposable marine camera are developed and digitized). After another quick change and lunch at the Blue Duck, we caught the 2:30 bus to Te Anau. Normally, bus rides aren't all that great, but this one took us through Homer Tunnel and then through glacial canyons larger than any I've ever seen. The only thing NZ lacks, scenically, we have observed, is the Grand Canyon, and here we were, mile after mile, in what the Grand Canyon would look like if it were covered in rain forest and surmounted by peaks and glaciers. We're vowed to drive back to Milford Sound to see it all again, just before embarking on the Routeburn Tramp Thursday morning.
Waterfalls Forming in the Rain at Milford Sound
Milford Sound
Mitre Peak
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