On Safari

Today (November 4) was an action-packed adventure/safari day. We began with our elephant ride (see illustration above, Vicki and me behind the driver), which lasted about 90 minutes and involved 5 rhinos, numerous spotted Nepalese deer, more crocodiles, etc. The elephant ride was cool. You're really high up on this animal that basically fears nothing and goes wherever it wants (or is told). The “driver” sits on its head/neck and appears to steer by nudging the animal's ears with his feet. At one point the driver got off to go behind a bush, but our concerns were allayed when the beast picked up a huge stick with its trunk and began scratching itself. A moment later the driver reappaeared and the elephant gently lifted him atop its head by its trunk. We had considerably more elephant experience at the morning elephant bath, on the big river. Here they brought together half a dozen pachyderms, got them in the shallow water, let people ride them, wash them, massage them, get sprayed by them, etc. Vicki and I watched from the sidelines but enjoyed it all nevertheless. This afternoon, we did the jeep safari, a different part of the park, and saw more deer, rhinos, birds, crocs, and a wild boar. But no tigers...which is just as well, since we'd prefer seeing them only at a great distance or though a barrier.

Both in Kathmandu and here we have been attentive to television coverage of the US election. CNN/Asia is widely available, and we have been devoted viewers when time allows. It's Tuesday night here, voting day in the US, and we hope to awake tomorrow morning to a convincing Obama victory. Everywhere we have been, we have managed to talk some politics with the people we have met. Scores, perhaps hundreds of them. The enthusiasm for Obama is striking and unanimous. The revulsion for Bush, which we share, is striking as well. Perhaps there is hope.

Vicki adds:

November 4, Chitwam National Park

We have spent the last three days at Chitwan Adventure Resort in southern Nepal, but my shoulder is still giving me a lot of problems. We have managed to spread the activities over three days instead of two, and double-doses of pain medication have meant I could do most of them. Chitwan is on the border with India and is basically a jungle park. So far, we have been on a dug-out canoe trip, an elephant trek, a jeep safari, and an elephant bath. We have had the opportunity to see wild boar, spotted Nepalese deer, giant termite mounds, assorted storks, cranes, eagles, and peacocks, but the most exciting was the one-horned rhinoceros, of which we have seen five. On this morning's elephant safari (quite comfortable, like riding a double-decker bus) we were able to get within 20 feet of several rhinos. This evening on the jeep safari we saw another mother and child rhino. Our stay here has included all our meals and activities, lodging, etc., all for about $60/day for the two of us. Accommodations are somewhat spartan, but we do have satellite TV (when electricity is working), and we are anxiously looking for the results of the US elections when we wake up tomorrow (Wednesday morning).

Mark is typing this for me; I am trying not to sit up. I hope India will be easier on my shoulder. I did forgo the elephant bath festivities in the river this morning and was merely an observer. Of course this also enabled me to avoid any nasty river parasites I might have acquired. We are on to Kathmandu tomorrow and then Varanasi (Benares), India, on Thursday.