Acclimatizing in Namche

Today was a rest/acclimatization day in Namche. This included a hike up to the rarely used Namche airport (being used now by insane sky-divers). It was cloudy, so Vicki went back to Namche. I went ahead, ever the optimist, to the Everest View Hotel, 3,880m, and enjoyed a partial view of the mountains, especially Ama Dablam, Thamserko, and portions of the Everest group. Everest itself was hiding behind a cloud. Tomorrow, our guide Mingma says. This afternoon and evening we have done some shopping in the Bazaar (a mini Thamel, but no vehicles), planning and resting.

At dinner tonight, Vicki tried the Yak steak and frites. Seriously. She ate it all except for giving me a bite. Tastes like beef. We'll definitely have it again.

We're off tomorrow into the Khombu, where internet will be sparse. We'll pass through Tengboche and the monastery there, and then on to Pangboche, in a few days' time. The ultimate goal is Gorak Shep and an ascent of Kala Pattar. 18,000 feet. We'll see. I will definitely not be smoking. We have had no difficulties with the altitude nor anything else so far, but further up the valley is really pushing it. I'll be happy to see Everest from Tengboche, the classic view. Anything more will be bonus. Mark

Namche Bazaar

[Written October 8]

We are now 3 days into our 24 day trek. However, today was really quite sad. The same flight we came in on to Lukla on Monday crashed this morning killing all aboard—17. Apparently it was cloudy and the pilot came in too low and ran straight into the mountain. There were 2 Nepalese guides and everyone else was on a German tour. The news spread quickly up and down the mountains as several military men were headed down from Namche to help. There is also intermittent cell phone service available. There hasn't been a fatal crash at that airport in many, many years so all the Nepalese were quite shocked.

When we get back to Kathmandu Mark will post picture of the airport if not before.

We have actually done quite well with the hiking. We divided the normal first day into two to help with the acclimatizing. We were quite worried about today because it is supposed to be the hardest of the trek with a 2300 ft climb and no way to break it up. However, I have been on harder hikes in the West and in the Alps—we went very slowly but were here at 1:00. The altitude is now 11,304 ft so everyone spends two nights here—even those going on to climb Everest. The chance of altitude sickness is just too great—even among the young and super-fit.

This is our third guest house. They are all very much alike. The standard charge is $3 a night for a double room. For that you get two smallish twin beds that go wall to wall with just enough room between them for a door to open. The toilet, shower and sink are down the hall and shared by about 25 people. Last night it was not even a Western toilet—not my favorite type. Of course no linens (everyone brings a sleeping bag), no heat, and 1 bare bulb in the ceiling for light.

You are expected to eat breakfast and supper at your guest house. That is how they make enough money to survive. We have been spending about $25 a day on food so it is inexpensive. The choices are about the same. Today for breakfast Mark had a omelet and toast and I had French toast. Last night for dinner I had eggs and French fries and Mark had dahl bat, which is the national dish. Down low there is lots of rice, later on mostly just potatoes. The only meat on the menu has been noodles or rice with tuna. I've got to be able to lose weight here! Vicki

First Days Trekking

[Written Tuesday, October 7]

We are in a lodge in Jorsale, some distance beyond Monjo and the entrance to the Sagarmatha National Park. It is our second day en trek. Before us tomorrow is the long 2,300 foot climb to Namche Bazaar. We stopped here early this afternoon to rest and acclimatize. Our net altitude gain today was modest. We are still no higher than Lukla. Our 60-something bodies are not liking the altitude here, about 9,000 feet.

So how did it come to this? Our early Monday morning departure was frantic as usual. Searches for things misplaced, the hotel failing to to arrange for an early breakfast, etc. We departed the hotel at 6:30 AM, expecting to find the streets of Kathmandu empty, but they were fuller than ever. It is the beginning of Desai, we understand, approximately what Christmas is to Christians, for Hindus. Kat is 85% Hindu. Big family, big travel, a week-long celebration. I guess the Buddhists just watch and spin their prayer wheels.

The Kat airport was a madhouse. Yeti and other airlines literally shuttle people to Lukla and other places. The plane lands, taxis to meet the bus of passengers, may not even shut down the starboard engine, loads, and then hustles back to wherever it came from. This goes on throughout the morning hours, while the flying weather is relatively good. Anyhow, the airport was a madhouse, from parking lot to boarding. Fortunately, Dawa, our hero, was there to meet us, get us through security and baggage, and into the boarding area. While others, scores, maybe hundreds of climbing and trekking group members stood in what might have been queues, a couple employees, came out from behind the counter, tagged and grabbed our heavy trekking porter bags (supplied by Dawa),while Dawa got our printed tickets (Yeti's telling you your e-tickets are confirmed means nothing; you still need paper tickets).

The 45-minute flight aboard the aging Twin Otter was interesting. We sat right behind the cockpit, taking pix through the windshield, getting up to about 11,000 feet, but never a whole lot above the ridges. (Jungle-like mountains all the way from Kat, sparse family farms here and there, mostly on the ridges.) The interest of the flight was enhanced in that we sat next to a US Embassy employee who was spending the Desai holiday trekking from Lukla. Lots of interesting information about the various refugee issues in Nepal (Tibetan, but mostly Bhutanese),

The single 300 meter (less I'd say) airstrip at Lukla also is interesting. Imagine that an aircraft carrier had run aground at the very end of a box canyon at 9,000 feet. You land from the west; you take-off from the east. You need really good brakes on landing, and really good lift on take-off, except that the ground falls away precipitously, thousands of feet, after the end of the run-way.

Fortunately, very fortunately, first-timers like us know little of this beforehand. I sensed changes in rpm and prop pitch, and saw the pilot adjust the flaps...and the ground come up quickly...and then a bump and screech...and then we were taxiing—a hard-right turn, almost 180 degrees, 90 feet or so--and then you're at the terminal and they're hustling (Namaste!) you off to the exit. The plane is almost fully re-positioned for take-off as the next batch of passengers is hustled on. And it as well as the next flight are both airborne before you get through the exit, collect your bags, and head into the waiting throngs.

Fortunately, again, Dawa's sister was there to meet us—she owns a guest-house in Lukla—as well as our guide, Mingma Sherpa, who immediately began watching carefully over us. I guess he knew we were going to be difficult when I insisted on photographing a take-off from Lukla. I guess I was reminded of those famous old films of Doolittle's Raiders taking off from the deck of the Hornet to bomb Tokyo in 1942, first disappearing off the bow, then eventually coming back into sight, in the distance, aloft. Lukla's kind of like that, except for all the mountains and trees and clouds.

At the guest-house we repacked again (some day I'll explain why all the different styles of travel and transit require different packing), met our porter, got 2 cups of coffee I'd missed earlier, and set forth with Mingma, registering at the police station, and spinning prayer wheels in the temple-things on the way out of the village. I at first felt guilty about the load we gave the porter until I saw him later carrying our stuff and much else.

Lukla to Thakding is mostly downhill. It was enough of a chore for us, laden as we were, and we'll regret it when we have to climb it on the way out. The path is mostly paved with large stones and steps, many doubtless of some age, generally 2-3 meters wide. The are trekkers, sometimes groups of trekkers, and many, many porters, each hurrying past the tourists, up- or down-hill carrying astonishing loads. And there are the occasional beast of burden, usually in small group with a driver/herder/whatever. These are not yak. They look pretty much like cows, longhorns, but are generally smaller and black. They are sort of like yak/mules. We'll get the name and spelling..

We stopped at a cafe for lunch. It took more than an hour to get a small pizza and an omelette, but we were glad to be off our feet. We stopped at a lodge just past Thakding. About 30 people there, a few in groups, several couples obviously independent. Our room had two hard single beds and just enough room for our bags. For dinner I had dahl bat with meat (unclear what type, but it was grilled and good). We sat with a well-traveled couple from the Netherlands and had a long, enjoyable conversation, mostly about travel in Asia and Europe. Exhausted, we were asleep by 9.

The next day was hiking from Thakding to Monjo, again mostly downhill, but with any number of climbs out of the suspension bridge river crossings. These are fairly modern, all metal, not the rickety wooden things you seen in the videos. They sway, they bounce (one kind soul galloped a horse across just for our benefit), but there's no way you could fall. Which is fine, because the Dudh Kosi (Milk River) is raging below, fresh from monumental glaciers. We arrived at Jorsale about 3, exhausted, but by dinner we had decided to press on to Namche, where it is nicer and and better to acclimatize. Mark

Trekking in Nepal

Monday the 6th we'll take Yeti Airlines from Kathmandu to Lukla where we begin our Everest Base Camp trek. This will take three weeks or so. We understand there is internet in Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and Dingboche, and cell reception at various points. But I doubt we'll post much blogging for the time being. We'll be checking email, however, so write us if you can.

K-k-k-k-k-Katmandu

That's why I'm going to Katmandu,
Up to the mountains where I'm going to,
And if I ever get out of here that's what I'm gonna do.
K - k - k - k - k - Katmandu,
That's really, really where I'm going to,
Oh, if I ever get out of here I'm going to Katmandu.

--Bob Seger

Our two days in Kathmandu have included a visit downtown to the Boudhanath Stupa, meetings with out trek organizer (more about which later) and a couple trips to Thamel for cash money, provisions for the trek, shopping and people watching. Thamel is pretty much as advertised: the tourist quarter, although tourists are only the smallest fraction of people there. The trekking/alpine shops must number in the hundreds, followed by internet cafes, pashmina shops, restaurants, guest-houses, and more. The density is just about elbow to elbow, and the strets are crowded with all manner of transportation except tour buses. We managed to find a general store of sorts and stocked up on gorp, granola bars, ramen, hard candy, coffee, sweetener, and other trek necessities. The taxi ride to and from Thamel covers much of Kat, and there are any number of interesting sights, sounds (mostly horns honking), and smells. We'll be spending three more days in Kat after our trek, and will get to know it better then. For now, we're packing for the trek.

Vicki adds:

October 5 Kathmandu

We leave at 6 am tomorrow to catch the plane to begin our trek to Everest Base Camp. We hired a porter and a guide who we will meet in Lukla when the plane lands. We decided that at this altitude our packs were just too heavy, even though they were only about 33 and 24 lbs respectively. With a porter we can take lots of snacks and extras that will make the trip more pleasant. The cost is very low and we were able to get in touch with a very reliable trekking agent here in Kathmandu through a connection I made with a Seattle high school librarian.

The hotel buffet was wonderful and no monkeys attacked—they waited until this morning to jump at Mark. He was bringing me a muffin after breakfast—he had to give them the food as there were no hotel employees around—with their big monkey sticks. Yesterday and today we went into Thamel, which is the tourist part of Kathmandu. It was a madhouse. Picture a very narrow street completely crowded with pedestrians, beggers, bicycles, motor scooters, pedicabs, cars, trucks, hawkers, touts, store displays. Literally no sidewalks and traffic running over you. Crossing the street was one of the scariest things I've ever done. Anyway, ATMs wouldn't give us enough money so we keep looking for other ones. We have to take enough cash for the entire trek. We did find a little grocery with lots of American food, so we bought snacks for the trek like gorp, candy, teabags, and toilet paper. Supposedly, all that will be available is water and your left hand—we'll see.

The drive to and from town has been quite an eye opener. Buildings here are about 3-6 stories, all made of handmade bricks, some with outer coverings of stucco or cement, some not. The roads are not all paved, even in very populous areas. We followed a river much of the way—not as big as most Montana creeks. Women were doing their wash, little boys were swimming naked, cows roaming in and out and along the road piles of garbage everywhere. There are lots of dogs nosing through the garbage and just running loose on the streets with the cows. Most of the women dress in traditional saris as the culture here is 85% Hindu and 15% Buddhist. Most of the Buddhists live in the mountainous areas rather than in Kathmandu. Kathmandu is over a million—so it is no small town.

We are taking our little computer on the trek so we will be able to write our blog, but I don't know how often we will be able to post. There is Internet available towards the beginning and end of the next 25 days, but in the middle, nothing but satellite phones for emergencies. I really think we are headed to the ends of the earth. Wish us luck. Vicki

Thai'd One On

Friday night. We're in Kathmandu, at Le Meridien, a Sheraton property a few km out of town. It's pretty nice, very Nepalese (by our lights), incense burning, everybody saying "Namaste," monkeys roaming all over the grounds (guests are warned to keep windows closed), some huge and obviously ancient India Rubber trees. All set on a 500 hectare forest reserve that features two old temples and other sites; and a golf club and spa. Somewhat older, but plush. With very slow internet.

Last night was at an airport hotel Vicki found on the internet--driver met us at the Bangkok airport and drove us, in a Mercedes, to the $13/night hotel. Not so plush, but safe and clean, and included return to the airport today. Bangkok traffic was near gridlock, and we were merely on the outskirts. It was warm and muggy, and last night featured heavy rain and the loudest and longest electrical storm either of us has ever experienced.

The Kat airport is a small regional sort in size, despite the 1MM population, and the customs/immigration set-up is not configured to deal with the two L-1011's that arrived this morning. We were in lines for a quite a while, got through, and then emerged into the sunshine and crowds of touts and louts. Fortunately, the hotel had a person meeting us who drove us here. The "meet and greet" function is becoming ever more important in this next stage of travel. We drove from the airport to the hotel, away from the city center, and saw some of the worst poverty we have seen. Nepal is genuinely a third-world, developing, South, however you put it. We saw rather little of this in China--nothing to compare with today--despite the fact that Mao's "iron rice bowl" of social security is no more than history.

Friday evening we ate at the buffet, in a courtyard of the hotel, with local musicians playing a very interesting kind of fusion, both instrumentally and musically, traditional instruments as well as guitar and bongos. The grilled lamb was great, as was the chicken, etc. Nice to have a bit of a change in cuisine.

Tomorrow we'll begin preparations for the trek, including a meeting with a trek organizer we have found via a Seattle school librarian. Hopefully, things will get squared away quickly and we can spend some time seeing the Kat sights. And watching the monkeys. It will be tough, however, not being plied with food and liquor on Thai Airlines. (I've never had cognac with lunch before). Mark

October 3 Kathmandu, Nepal

I can’t really believe we are here. Kathmandu sounds so exotic—a place I never expected to visit. We stayed in basically a dump last night near the Bangkok airport. But it was only $13. The choices I found were there or at the airport Novatel which was well over $180. Because our flight was delayed in Bangkok we were only there 7 hours anyway. It was clean but old. There was an incredible thunderstorm during the night that lasted for hours with the loudest lightning and thunder I’ve ever heard and massive amounts of rain. The monsoon season doesn’t end in Thailand until November.

The Kathmandu airport was a zoo, especially once we left the terminal. Our hotel was meeting us but two other fellows grabbed our bags and pretended to be with the driver and then wanted us to pay them. The hotel car was blocked in by another so our driver had a rousing battle with several men before we could leave. The hotel is amazing, quite old but beautiful, located on the edge of a large forest that the hotel owns. It was once part of the King’s reserve and the only standing forest of any size in the whole valley. The forest dates back 500 years and some of the rubber trees our over 200. Monkeys roam the grounds. We will see how well behaved they are at the outside dinner buffet. Can’t just have ramen here as there are no stores anywhere within walking distance. We have to hire the hotel car—but it is only $20 to town and they will wait for you for 2 hours and then bring you back included. Tomorrow night—ramen. The hotel itself is free with our credit card points. They have saved us a ton of money, which is good since India is going to cost 3 times what we budgeted.

Big Honkin' Hong Kong

After a pleasant morning at the People's Park in Chengdu, including some great lemon tea and jasmine tea and biscuits at a tea house by the lake, we took the high speed taxi to the airport, where, at length, Thai airlines informed us our flight to Bangkok had been canceled. (We had confirmed earlier in the day). But the young woman who broke the bad news also got us re-booked via Hong Kong and spirited us through the usual ticketing, baggage, and other hurdles. So I am writing this now from Gate 42 of the international terminal in Hong Kong Airport. Our passports won't show it, but we have been to Hong Kong. The international terminal here does not appear as large as Beijing's, but it appears to be servicing more aircraft; big international aircraft. And the mall, largely duty-free, is similarly very large, with every up-scale brand known. Gucci's appears to have its own wing. Vicki has been shopping for an hour now. I happen to know they take USD as well as HKD and who knows what else. They have been doing capitalism here for a while and it is truly international, judging from all the different costumes one sees. Anyhow, barring another delay, we'll soon be off to Bangkok, overnight, and then on to Kathmandu tomorrow morning. Mark

Vicki adds:

October 2, Hong Kong

We are supposed to be in Bangkok and I hope we will be in 3 more hours. Our hotel called to reconfirm our flight this morning but when we got to the airport it had been canceled. We were momentarily panicked as the flight to Nepal leaves tomorrow. However, the nice women with Thai Airlines rebooked us through Hong Kong. Big, fancy international airport with the stores I always shop at: Gucci, Ferragamo, Coach, Burberrys, Versace, many so expensive I've never even heard of them.

Our morning was nice as we walked over to a park in Chengdu with an artificial lake and gigantic outdoor teahouse. Many families boating on the lake—paddle boats, rowboats, electric motorboats. I had a stupendous lemon tea and Mark jasmine—comes with a huge thermos of hot water so you can keep adding water. We were immediately assaulted by two men wanting to clean our ears and give us neck and shoulder massages—passed on the ear cleaning (Mark will post a picture of their implements) but did get the massage. Very nice.

We are seeing far more 2-3 children families here. In rural China (heaven knows what that means with 100 cities over a million) 2 children are allowed, and all the 54 official minority groups can have as many children as they want. In total they only make up 8% of the population. I also found out that if you have a girl first and you or your husband don't have any siblings, then you may have another child. If you don't fit into one of those categories you have to pay an enormous sum to register the child (like a birth certificate) and also you have to pay for all their schooling from kindergarten on.

Da Bears

At the Panda Center near Chengdu

Fortunately, there's a deep moat between us and this guy

Vicki at the Panda Center

Mao presiding over Tianfu Square

Waving at the Cartier's and other fine shppping...

Wednesday in Chengdu we went to the Panda Breeding Center. We saw 3 babies in incubators each about 1 month old. While we were there the nurse took one baby out and took it next door for the mother to nurse. Only at that point were we allowed to take pictures. The babies were just getting their fur. They are born completely hairless and blind—-all pink skin looking a little like rats—hard to describe. There were also 3 cubs about 2 months old sleeping in a large wooden playpen structure. At two months they have a full set of fur with all the panda markings.Their eyes are still developing so no pictures of them allowed either. It was terrific to see the babies—-bad part was that since babies are only born 2 months of the year, there were none old enough to hold. They have a program that allows you to hold a cub if you contribute a healthy sum to the breeding program. I had been looking forward to it. Next time. Vicki

The Panda Center was interesting for a range of reasons. Here's a poor animal that can't and won't adapt. It eats only bamboo and breeds like other bears--rarely and with low survival prospects. The Chinese are taking extraordinary measures to ensure its survival, but at great cost. Yes, they are adorable, although I think we've all been conditioned from childhood to think of them as cute and cuddly. They're big, though hardly giant, and have really nasty-looking claws and teeth and doubtless can do some damage when provoked. The center is a typically well run, organized, signed (in English) affair. It is strictly about research and breeding--not a zoo. And only a few dollars admission.

The taxi ride back to Chengdu center was our most harrowing yet. A bit of freeway, then miles of back streets, frantically dodging pedestrians, hand-carts, bicycles, scooters, cars, buses, etc. The driver got through one squeeze-play with a violent maneuver, no more than a couple inches' clearance on either side.

In the afternoon we ventured back to Tianfu Square to see the masses luxuriating in the National Day. Throngs on the square, fountain displays, music, but no program nor speeches. Oh well. We explored a variety of stores, alleys, etc.

Tuesday night we did eat Sichuan, pork and chicken dishes (only 1 chili in spiciness), soup, fruit, and a very interesting cream of peanut soup for dessert. (Vicki said it tasted like Jif and honey). Yum. The Sichuan provide a large spoon with chopsticks, in addition to the ceramic soup spoon. Interesting. Leftovers Wednesday. Mark

Another On-Time Departure with Sichuan Airlines

Wednesday we are off to see the baby Pandas, so I am quite excited about that. Tuesday's airport experience was exciting. We were supposed to fly out of Chongqing at 9 am. We were up a 6 and at the airport at 7. Upon check-in we were told there would be a 4 hour weather delay. Mark checked off and on during the morning and was told the departure would be at 1:40 pm. At 11:25 we were finishing lunch at a Chinese fast food place and Mark went to check the board again—now it said boarding at 11:40. While Mark packed up, an announcement was made for final boarding of our flight. We rushed to security where the line was long, but a nice family let us in ahead of them, then ran a couple of blocks and staircases to the gate. No one was there. Nor any airplane. We searched around and an airline employee took us upstairs, consulted with a colleague, and we were rushed back the two blocks to a different gate, where we were the last ones to board. The flight took off at 12:40—when boarding was supposed to begin! Every Chinese flight we have made has left early—-but only by 10-15 minutes. This one gave us both near-heart attacks. But they did feed us breakfast—-on a 45 minute flight. Vicki

I had hoped our day in Chongqing might have included a hot pot meals, the local specialty. Prowling about the neighborhood of our hotel, I did find several such restaurants but discerned it was not the kind of dining experience apt for one or two, especially when there were no English menus nor English-speaking staff. But it was fun to watch. I also encountered a fancier hotel restaurant decked out in Mao and Revolutionary regalia, posters, photos, kitsch. Got some interesting pix.

The four hour delay gave me a chance to work on photos, so maybe tomorrow night I can get some more posted. Chengdu is China's 4th largest city, and looks it. We are smack downtown, a few blocks from the Tianfu Square, where the gigantic statue of Mao waves down the street at Cartier, Dunhill, Gucci, etc. Our 19th floor room at the Sheraton overlooks the municipal stadium—home of the Chengdu Bears (da Pandas)—and they are setting it up for a big Mei rock concert October 2. Hopefully, we'll be in Bangkok, en route to Kathmandu. Mark

Briefly in Chongqing

We debarked this morning--the 29th here, Monday--and found our way to the Chongqing Holiday Inn Yangzi, which offers free in-room internet. (The connection aboard the Century Star was the slowest I've ever experienced; we gave up after one try.) In Chongqing we plan to visit Carrefour's or the Walmart (their world headquarters?) and possibly the Stillwell Museum. We'll pass on the Three Gorges Museum, being now quite gorged-out. We'll be just a short time in this huge city. We fly to Chengdu early tomorrow morning, our last stop in China.

Spending less, living better, in China

At a Mao restaurant in Chonqing (a chain?)
(what would Mao think?)

Last Day of Yangzi Cruise

Our last afternoon on the Yangzte Cruise, September 28. It has been quite enjoyable—3 nice excursions (just like field trips only I didn't have to be the one counting noses). The food has been Westernized Chinese—with English labels, so one needn't eat the duck lungs by mistake, along with both Western and Chinese breakfast. We have had lots of free time just to loaf and look out our sliding glass doors or sit out on the little balcony. The weather was cloudy the first two days and some sun this morning—but not too hot. In fact last night there was a beautiful pink sunset in the gorge with the mountains piling up in shades of gray and the breeze and evening were what I would call 'soft' and just about perfect. We disembark at 9 am tomorrow and our last few days in China will be relatively easy—Holiday Inn and Sheraton and air tickets all booked. This is very good, as day after tomorrow is the National Holiday which means everything, everywhere will be completely booked up. When you have to compete with 1.3 billion others plus visitors, you have to plan ahead. Details of where we have been are on Mark's improved blog. Vicki

Our major excursion today was the Snow Jade Cave near Feng Du. (OK, I was wrong about Feng Du's location last night). 200 steps up off the river to tour buses, then a 30 minute ride out into the mountains. The cave was actually quite nice. Not as extensive as some we have seen in the states, but the various features, stalactites, etc., were very much intact and growing, plus a lot of other types of spelio-features we have never seen before. We spent the afternoon lazing around, packing, repairing, marveling at the passing scenery, now bucolic, now mountainous, now urban. Fuling looked humongous; one assumes it is another 5-10 year old city. Two huge bridges spanning the river, both under construction. The city seemed to go on for miles, 8-20 stories high as far as the eye could see.

Later in the afternoon I attended a Sichuan cooking class on board. All the usual ingredients, a chicken/peanut dish and a tofu dish, both zesty and wonderful. The first meal we had on board, ordered from the menu Thursday night, was also wonderful, Chongqing cuisine, which must be closely related to Sichuan. All the cruise meals since, although quite varied, have been extremely bland, dumbed down for the clientele, I suppose. I have tried nearly everything, although I did draw the line at “backed beans” for breakfast this morning. I must share with Viking Cruises the August Moon recipe for Sichuan cucumbers—far superior to the three kinds of cucumber salad they have served so far. Mark

Further note. The Century Star draws about two meters (according to the scale on the bow). It is 7 decks high. The rolling is fairly pronounced, IMHO. A degree of rudder produces 3-4 degrees of roll. I have experience in these matters, as I steered the smaller ferry yesterday a bit. Well, ten minutes, until they saw I was not going to be a big tipper. This puppy, the Century Star, is very top-heavy. I wonder whether we should sleep in our life jackets.

Further, further note. The engine vibration aft is really pronounced. I don't see how those poor people can sleep.

Familiar Gorge scene, printed on the 5 yuan note

As show to Vicki by the cruise director and Australian friend

Further, further, further note to Viking Cruise photographers: head-shots only. Aging, obese Canadian-Americans are not flattered otherwise. But we did buy the cruise DVD. Vicki was a major star. Mark

Two Days Before the Mast

Our first full day aboard ship, September 26, was interesting and fun. We got underway a bit later than scheduled, saw the first gorge, Xiling, and arrived at the Three Gorges Dam site by late morning. Buses took us first to the demo area and a peek at the locks, then on up to the main viewing area, done up in full contemporary Chinese fashion, huge, beautifully landscaped, monuments, fountains, observation towers, and the rest. Despite all the criticism, one can't help being impressed by the monumental scale of the undertaking. I took a picture of the provincial water resources management commission monument for my sister Carole, who works in water resource management in south Florida. Now this is a dam, Carole. After lunch, family-style with our group of independent travelers (non-tour folks), two Australian couples, one Chinese-American couple, and us, we went through the system of five locks, each raising us and three other ships about 30m at a time. It was awesome (really, awesome) watching the huge doors close and open, the rise (about a foot every 7 seconds), and so on. I guess I've just never been around anything so big..... By nightfall, we were on top, celebrating with a variety of pix from our cabin. Before dinner we attended the captain's welcome cocktail party, then dinner, then the crew talent show, including a good bit of traditional numbers. The Sichuan face-changing was particularly interesting. Our dining group is interesting and agreeable. One of the Australian couples works for Volvo in Beijing and is quite knowledgeable about China and the rest of Asia. Of course, much of the conversation bore on the ongoing financial melt-down, the American election, and so on. Everyone's watching CNN/Asia.

This morning, September 27, we cruised the middle gorge, the Wu, and then transferred to a smaller boat, and finally to motorized sampans, for exploration of the Lesser Three Gorges of the Daning River. Particularly interesting were the coffins perched high on the cliffs (well, the few the Cultural Revolution couldn't get to...), and (finally) the monkeys. By late morning the clouds had dispersed and we had a fine day, not at all warm. The Daning comes into the the Yangzi right at Wushan, a five-year-old city of 80,000. Much construction, buildings, bridges (bye-bye and hello bridges), roads, embankments, still going on. Seems like everything in China is either ancient or brand new, equally interesting, equally impressive.175m markers all over the place—marking where the river eventually will rise to...we are currently at 146m (above sea level; and perhaps 300-400 miles inland). Next was the Qutang Gorge, highest but shortest of them. After the Qutang, I got a haircut and beard-trim. Through an unfortunate miscommunication, it came out somewhat shorter than wanted. But for $7 I can wait for it to grow back. Next, and just before nightfall, came the Ghost City (abandoned now prior to the rising water) and Fengdu. We watched the sunset from the top deck and then repaired to dinner with our new friends.

The terrain through which we are passing—apart from the river, the gorges, the mountains (most under 1000m), is intensely agricultural. Terraces everywhere, groves, steps leading from the river to the tops of mountains, verdant everywhere except exposed rock (of which there is plenty). The Yangzi is impressive too—deep, wide, fast-flowing, muddy at this time of year. It is easy to see why it has been the backbone of commerce in China, and also why it has been such a killer river.

We are really enjoying the cruise—nice people, good food, great scenery—and most of all the opportunity to slow down and take it easy, particularly realizing that we will be in Nepal in just a week, in greatly changed circumstances.

Bridge construction over the Yangste

Three Gorges Dam

Packing cruise ships and others into one of the several locks

And yet another bridge under construction

Train Ride, Then--Avast!--Boat Ride

Well, today was a hoot, a day of contrasts. We departed the Minnan International Hotel at 8:30, following a two-fried egg breakfast, taxied to the humongous Zhangjiajie train station, and awaited our train, #1474 to Yichang. Conversation with a young woman in the waiting area revealed that our tickets were not for “hard seats” but rather for “standing room only.” The train was several minutes late, giving us additional time to ponder the prospect of standing all six hours to Yichang. (These were 24 yuan tickets, about $3.50 each, evidently all that was available, but about which the Minnan “travel agent” was less than straightforward).

We had our folding stools (veteran groundlings that we are) with us, but never needed them. The car we were instructed to board had plenty of sitting room, although most of the passengers attempted to take as much room as possible. We sat all the way to Yishang, although there were anxious moments at the various stops when we thought the “conductor” might figure us out and ask for our tickets. (Twenty-years' “re-education” in one of the autonomous regions.) Clearly this was a car-load of real people, relatively impoverished, no tourists, Chinese or other. But they were generous and patient; very mixed age-wise, some women with small children. Americans on trains are rare enough, I assume, and Americans in the hard seat cars probably unheard of. We needn't have worried about being questioned.

The car itself was old, not very clean, but the hard seats were actually vinyl-upholstered and not uncomfortable. Scarcely a minute passed without some concessionaire or other passing by, hawking fruit, drinks, toys, snacks, hot meals, etc. The smoking was a bit much. Vicki's description of the sanitary facilities in the preceding post was a vile slander: you could not see the tracks below. (Although a little ventilation would have been welcome).

The countryside through which we passed was mountain/valley, 99% rural and agricultural, dotted with small towns, and about six stops. Farming here is very different from what we see in the states. It is impossible to tell one “spread” from another. Plots are typically an acre or less, never anything more than a few acres, much of it too hilly or rocky to farm. Most of what we saw in the valleys was either rice or citrus, mostly the green oranges we have been enjoying, some cotton, occasional lotus, and frequent ponds for fish (or crab?) farming. In 500 km or so, we saw two tractors. Everything else was hand-tilled, an occasional water buffalo pulling the plow. There were many, many people out working the plots. Clearly, the valleys we traveled were very old and very fertile, with a very high water table: the Yangzi and its tributaries. Perhaps tractors don't work so well in the mush.

We arrived in Yishang on time, aided in our disembarcation by the conductor and fellow passengers. We waded through the touts, found a metered taxi and drove to the cruise ship dock west of town. (Yishang is 3.9 million according to our 2006 guidebook). Although we were an hour or more early, the crew let us board and settle in our cabin, #321 aboard the Century Star, on the port side, forward, sort of. Neither abaft the beam nor before the mast.

After exploring and provisioning ashore, we enjoyed a pretty good meal on-board: a tomato egg-drop soup, fried rice, for Vicki, sweet and sour pork, for me, chicken and peanuts, both done Chongqing-style (spicy!), with more sliced green onions than we have ever seen before. This is our first “cruise” ever, and we are particularly impressed to have our own balcony. We get underway at 6 AM tomorrow morning for this, the splurge part of our China trip. Today didn't start out that way.

The Century Star, our home for three days on the Yangtse

Ships under construction, waiting for the water to rise...

Captives in Zhangjiajie

Water fights while rafting on an artificial white water course, south of the Park
















Me, the next day, sipping green tea aboard the train to Yishang (see next post)

We thought we had been captured by the Communists for a while. After many semi-intelligible conversations with our tour guide, his boss, hotel desk people etc., over a period of 5 hours yesterday, we found out that they hadn't bought our train tickets, and none were available for today. (But we could sign up for another tour today--right!) Combing the Internet we found that we could only fly from here to Shanghai or Beijing and then to Yichang and the Yangzte river cruise. Not very direct, very expensive, and probably not available with the national holiday approaching. But after only 5 more hours of similar phone calls and conversations this morning, we have in hand two tickets for tomorrow's train—very cheap at only $5 each for 6 hours of travel. Bad news is that the very cheap seats were the only ones available—foreigners never travel that way as the cars are not air conditioned, the toilet is a hole in the floor where you can see the tracks and you are packed in like sardines. I can't wait.

We don't yet have the cruise tickets either. We had wanted to wait until the last minute to get a lower price—but didn't realize how much the national holiday next week would impact this week. So I am writing this while waiting for an answer from a China travel agency working on that issue. The first tickets they wanted to sell me were a good buy on an American owned cruise line--but the agency didn't realize we were Americans. Americans have to pay $75 more each than Europeans. That is the cruise line's policy—I intend to write them to complain. So much for buying American.

For some more little tidbits, the oranges here all have green skins, orange insides, and no seeds, and they are delicious. The hotels we have been staying in all have central room-controlled electricity. You put your room card key in a slot in the room and the power comes on. In the nicest hotels you get two keys and that way you can leave the air conditioning on while away. In the Chinese hotels you are only allowed one keycard. The room lights are all controlled by switches in the headboard of the bed or the nightstand. Some are master switches, some only dim, some turn off a certain circuit, others one light, most are not labeled. So even turning on and off the lights is an adventure every time. Mark calls it the "command and control center." Vicki

PS. 5 PM. We now have the cruise tickets and confirmation, so life is good, assuming the train runs on time. We visited the main Bank of China office here this afternoon and exchanged dollars for yuans without difficulty. Apparently it was largely a matter of finding the main bank. We walked the mile or so back to the hotel, observing much of everyday life on this main street. Zhangjiajie is definitely off the beaten track for US tourists, and so here one can see a bit of China as it is, not dressed up either by government or touts. People stare at us, of course, but there is also an unending stream of "hellos," "how are you's," and "enjoy your stay." We passed by an elementary schoolyard. The kids saw us, initially backed off, then run up to squeal "hellos." Downtown Zhangjiajie is a no-horn zone--so the traffic signs say--of course no one pays the slightest attention! Mark

Stranded in Zhangjiajie

The town we were in last night was Wulingyuan itself, the town, not the scenic area. A nearby stream from the dam a few km away has been reworked to provides rapids, white water, and yesterday afternoon we enjoyed watching a dozen or so rafts float by, engaged mostly in water-fights. The rafts themselves were smaller than what we see in Montana/Idaho, and brightly colored. The stream's name was Suoxi.

Tuesday had its thrills. First was the 326m ride up the Bailong Lift (to the top in 118 seconds), recognized by Guiness at the world's highest outdoor elevator. From there we hiked the Yuanjajie walkways among the karst summits, a steel bridge, the world's highest natural bridge (so it said), Tiansheng Qiao. Today was mistier and hazier than yesterday, but still gave the karsts off to good effect—more “authentic” it seemed. Yesterday we saw them bottom-up; today more top-down. Fascinating either way. After the hike, we boarded a curiously smaller bus. We soon discovered why: a 45 minute thrill-ride, faster, tighter turns, narrower road, exposure everywhere. Vicki had befriended a Tasmanian couple--part of a somewhat larger UK/AU group—and conversation distracted her from the thrill-ride. (The only Anglos we've seen here; and hardly any Americans anywhere). I should mention that Wulingyuan NP is strictly internal bus transportation, no private vehicles at all. There are some queues, but the longest we had to wait was perhaps 15 minutes (compare the hour-long taxi queue at Shanghai's Hongshou airport).

So, you ask, how do the Chinese drive when there are only tour-buses on the road? Still at warp-factor speed, I would say, but with obviously collegial deference to fellow drivers and buses.

The bus deposited us at the summit of Tianzi Mountain (Tianzi Shan), the highest point in the park, and a short walk took us to a Buddhist pagoda, excellent vistas, and the enormous but impressive monument to He Long. He Long was one of Mao's lieutenants, from the Long March in 1935 onward. Both were from Hunan, and, Josh said, the Long March actually started from Zhuangjiajie.

The day's final thrill was the cable car ride back down to the valley. These were high-speed six-person cars that took you right up next to the karts all around. Another bus ride returned us to Wulingyuan (the town), our driver, and another half hour ride back to Zhangjiajie. We're eating light tonight—noodles—but enjoying the fresh green oranges we bought on the mountain top. Yes, oranges: orange on the inside, but with green skin on the outside. And quite good too.

Tomorrow would have begun a new adventure, negotiating the train to Yichang, where we have no reservations, and booking the Yangzi cruise to Chongqing. But the train was sold out for tomorrow (we were told), and now we are looking for any way to get out of Zhangjiajie to Yichang. We'll be in Zhangjiajie another day, Wednesday, but at least we have an internet connection. Zhangjiajie is tiny hamlet--a mere 1.6 million in the metro area. But not a word of English anywhere.

Wulingyuan

We made our fourth trip by plane in China Sunday. I don't think I've mentioned that every plane was full, took off early, and on each flight we had a complete meal. Free beer, too. A lot different from the States right now. We arrived in Zhangjiajie on a plane where we were the only Euro-Americans. Monday in Wulingyuan National Park we spent about 8 hours and saw thousands of people—4 “English.” This is really off the beaten track for non-Chinese tourists. We hired a guide for two days since no one speaks English, and there are hardly any signs in English—at least outside the park. Though expensive at about $70 a day, “Josh” speaks pretty good English and was immensely helpful in getting our money changed. We had no problems until today—just put the card in the ATM, punch in the pin, out comes the Chinese money. After 3 banks this morning and a manager's help (via Josh) we learned that only certain ATMs take foreigners cash cards and their 4 number pins—those are all in big cities only. The rest of the country uses 6 digit pins. So we tried to exchange our $100 bills—not crisp enough to be read by the counterfeit machine! With humidity at over 90%, crisp is not really an option. Two banks wouldn't take the American Express traveler's checks, but the third finally did. It was a little shaky there wondering what we were going to do for money other than to fly back to Shanghai. Rural areas like these—a city of 1.6 million—don't take credit cards not issued by Chinese banks! Mark will fill you in on our lovely, though beastly hot, day in the park. Whole grilled fish on a stick for snacks anyone? Vicki.

Wulingyuan NP is China's first national park, established in 1982, and is noted for its mountainous terrain, forests, streams, etc., and, in particular, its somewhat different version of the Chinese karsts. Here they are more layered, metamorphic rock, rising perhaps a couple thousand feet above the gorges. They are similar yet very different from the Li River karsts, which are softer, rounder, higher. Wulingyuan still is fairly awesome. In the Park itself today we did two major things: a cable-car ride to one of the high karsts with splendid 360 panorama. The morning mist burned off and visibility was good. There was a beautiful small garden of tea bushes along one of the high paths. After an interesting Hunan lunch (some like it mild), we walked Jinbian Stream—three gorgeous hours in the gorge. The clear stream itself and the luxuriant vegetation were so pleasant (not to mention the labels on every tree, rocks, etc., and the continual reminders to live in harmony with nature), I had to remind myself to look up at the ever-changing karst ceiling. The path through the gorge was even more crowded than the Great Wall, but people were good-natured, all suffering the same atrocious heat and humidity. These end-of summer hot days are known as the “autumn tiger,” and the tiger has made us miserable at times ever since Xian. Fortunately, we have found air-conditioned hotels fairly readily, including tonight's Yu Bi Feng Hotel, which is brand-new and pretty nice. Unfortunately, we haven't a clue as to what town it is in. Josh and the driver will pick us up tomorrow morning at 8:30 for our next adventure. Mark

Entrance to Wulingyuan National Park; karsts beyond

Giant karsts; some of the trails are in the valleys, others follow the ridges

Us; pretty much the only non-Chinese there

Zhouzhuang, Suzhou, and more Shanghai

September 20, 2008, Shanghai, Saturday

Several days for which to account...

The 18th, Thursday, we took Line 1 to People's Park, then transferred to Line 2 to get to Fuxong Park and the French Concession. Fuxong Park was a hoot--hundreds of oldsters (and others) dancing, doing tai chai, playing badmitton, singing, playing traditional instrumental music, and so on. Something we have seen in several parks but always a treat. Also the Marx/Engels monument. We crossed over the park and commenced our walking tour of the tree-lined and now very fashionable French Concession. Highlights included the Sun Yat-Sen house, the Cathay Theatre (first talkies in China), the Okura Garden Hotel (grand ballroom; more wedding photos), the 1928 (name?) high-rise that was the first such structure here. We had lunch at very nice Chinese restaurant, no English name noted, and shared steamed dumplings, mushroom/pork dish, rice, and tea. After this we repaired back to the hotel to rest up for the acrobats show at the Shanghai Center Theatre. This is not something I generally go in for, but it was most entertaining, daring feats, but also some humor. Delays in catching a taxi almost got us there late. The Ritz Carlton complex where the theatre was located also contained a Tony Roma's, where we had a post-acrobatic snack.

The 19th, Friday, we booked ourselves onto a tour of the water village, Zhouzhuang, and Suzhou. The tour bus carried six people: driver, tour guide, a retiree from Vail, a kindergarten teacher from Finland, and us. The guide, Frances, an international relations student, was great, doing all the history and culture but also a good bit of manners and customs. Zhouzhuang was interesting--sort of a miniature Venice; lots of lakes about (he- and she- crab production) and a very high water table--but not worth the 25 minute hike (and back) in searing heat. The bus drove us on to Suzhou.

In the travel videos of Hangzhou and Sushou you get the impression of walled-in old cities, lots of ancient stone, water features, gardens. In reality, Suzhou is about the same size or larger than Shanghai, in area, with about 8 million people. Imagine all the research and high-tech parks you have ever seen, put them all in one county, throw in a few thousand (!) 20-30 story high-rises, supporting commerce, and a sprinkling of World Heritage destination sites, and there you have Suzhou. (I suppose I'll get over the massive thing soon).

We stopped first first at Choyers' Suzhou #1 Silk Mill and had a decent family-style meal there, 6 or 8 dishes for the 4 of us. Then a tour of the silk mill, which was both historical and technical in nature. Started with mulberry leaves and silkworm larvae, chewinbg their way through them. Proceeded to sorting and boiling of cocoons, threading, weaving, etc. Actually, it was very interesting, looking at both the newer automatic looms and the historical models. I've always been curious how the cocoons became thread. Then to the massive showroom, of course, where Vicki bought 2 beautiful (light-weight) scarves.

Our next stop was the real highlight for me: the Grand Canal. It was dug in the 6th and 7th centuries, and runs from Hangzhou to Beijing, more than 1000 kilometers. At Suzhouz it is wide enough for barge traffic, crossed by beauitful old bridges.

Last, we visited the Lingering Garden in Suzhou, a garden estate that dates from Ming times and is among the World Heritage sites. Chinese gardens, I gather, are more about rock and water than plants, and especially about the re-creation of larger scenes. The variety of halls, courtyards, and so on, were impressive. Traffic delayed our return to Shanghai until 6 PM. We got off at the river and took a Huangpu River cruise, an hour-long cruise past the Bund on the western shore and Pudong--new Shanghai--on the east.

Today, Saturday, we had a change of plans. We had originally intended to ride the train to Hangzhou and spend the day there. But the train was sold out, and so we got to see more of Shanghai...a walk on the Bund, Gushong Park, and then old Shanghai, the markets, and then lunch at a restraurant our tour guide had recommended at "most Shanghainese," Lu Balong. I had dim sum, Vicki had lemon chicken. The heat was incredible, the humidity worse. Early in the morning the humidity haze was so thick you could hardly see across the river.

In Suzhou, a bridge over the Grand Canal

In the Lingering Garden in Suzhou

High-rise housing on the road from Shanghai to Suzhou, mile after mile of these

Shanghai acrobats




















Ditto

Knife-throwing at Shanghai acrobats, and a volunteer from the audience...

Shanghai'd

Looking across the river to Pudong
















Dancing in the Park

Interesting above-ground wiring matrix

Our first full day in Shanghai took us to the Shanghai Museum in the People's Park. Though relatively small, it is a spendid national museum. (The real National Museum in Beijing is closed for renovations). The exhibits are very well done, beautifully laid out, much high tech, much English. The organization is by type of artifact--painting, calligraphy, bronze, ceramics, coins, minorities' artifacts, furniture--and then chronological within type of artefact, many very ancient. It's in fact a national museum because Shanghai really has little history. 150 years ago it was a mere fishing village. We had lunch at the museum and then walked to the Bund to see a travel agent. The walk was a bit inadvertent. Igt was rush-hour, and no taxis were interested in a short haul. Much of the Bund was under conxstruction of one sort or another, but we'll get back tomorrow.

Much of the evening was spent in revising the website and this new blog site. Hopefully, I'll upload photos tomorrow or the next day.

I thought it would be cool to get take-out Chinese while in China, so I wandered downstairs to the adjacent shopping mall and found a Chinese fast-food place (right next to the KFC). Of course, they appeared surprised to see a Euro-Am, but promptly produced an English menu and someone to explain things to me. I got spareribs, rice, steamed vegetables, and a soup, all for 18 yuan.

Randoms: near the Bund, a great photo of 4-story bamboo scaffolding on an older building, coils of disused streetcar cable hanging in the air, the skyscrapers of Pudong in the background. Old and new Shanghai. Hope it turns out!

Improved New Blog

Due to popular demand, we have started a "real" blog, "The Road Goes Ever On," at http://roadeveron.blogspot.com/. The old blog, maintained mostly by Vicki, will continue as before.

Impressions Liu Sanjie; thanks, Millie

September 16, 2008, Shanghai, Tuesday

Last night we indeed saw the Impressions Liu Sanjie in Yangshuo. It was created by Zhang Yimou, a filmmaker who also did the Olympics opening ceremonies. From the Impressions, created in 2004, I think, it is easy to see why he was chosen to do the Olympics. Impressions featured a stunning mega-setting (ever more so than the Bird's Nest), cast of hundreds (six hundred; plus six cormorants and two water buffalo)(for the Olympics he had 15,000, but no water buffalo), incredible fire/light/sound effects, much traditional as well as contemporary material, great integral music. Of course, Vicki and I understood not a word of it, even less the narrative flow. Be that as it may, it was yet another unforgettable Li River experience. The setting is the river itself, on an inlet of it, perhaps 300 meters deep and 150 meters wide, bounded on either side by karsts, giant bamboo, banyan. Everything was performed on or near the near shore, but mostly on the water, on movable piers, boats, and the like. The visual effect, at night, was something else. The backdrop was five or so karsts in the distance beyond the river, softly lit. A bonus for last night's audience was a beautiful full moon rising between the karsts. There were a few individual song numbers, but mostly large numbers of dancers and other such, apparently depicting the history and culture of the region. (We picked up on the bamboo punts, the fishing, the cormorants, the water buffalo, etc.). A dazzling variety of scene and costume changes. Yimou is a mega-magician, and one of the things I like about the two performances I have seen is that, occasionally, at the end of a scene, he shows you how he did the trick. I can't imagine a more rewarding experience for the 140 yuan (including transportation) we paid—about 20 bucks.Got to see his films when I can.

On the shuttle to the show we befriended a young woman from Guilin, Millie, who led us about, explained things, and, most importantly, helped us find the shuttle after it was over. Thanks, Millie!

Today was a transit day, a harrowing 90 minute taxi ride from Yangshuo to Guilin airport; then a Shanghai Airline flight to Shanghai, then another taxi ride from Honshuo airport to the downtown Holiday Inn where we are staying. On the plane we befriended a lady from Devon whose tour guide was kind enough to write “Holiday Inn Downtown” for us in Chinese. The "kindness of strangers" bit is real. Shanghai, from what we saw coming in, dwarfs Beijing, utterly. It's not as beastly hot and humid here as it was in Guilin and Yangshuo, both way further south. We spent the afternoon unpacking, reorganizing, researching arrangements for the next (and more adventurous) stages of our China trip. After a decent Chinese breakfast and meal on the plane, we dined at Maison d'Mickey's, then walked around the nearby blocks, including the central train and bus stations. Also another big department store and mall.

On the basis of today's experience, we have further refined our observations about taxi drivers and driving. The “Five Ways” of taxi driving in China are

• get your clients to their destination and collect their payment
• pass anything and everything on the road, from hand-pulled carts to tour buses, including police cars
• fear only on-coming tour buses
• make sure the seat cover precludes client use of seat belts
• do not charge for the thrills

Internet is costing us here, so we may not post much the next few days. We'll be in Shanghai and environs through the 20^th, departing Pudong airport on the afternoon of the 21^st for Dayong and Wulingyuan National Park.

Yes, we 're watching the financial meltdown from here, on CNN International and MSNBC. Also pretty harrowing. Mark

 

Slow day at the Mao shoppe, Yangshou

Bamboo rafting on one of the Li's tributaries

 

Impressions Liu Sanjie

Cast of hundreds...many hundreds