K-k-k-k-k-Katmandu

That's why I'm going to Katmandu,
Up to the mountains where I'm going to,
And if I ever get out of here that's what I'm gonna do.
K - k - k - k - k - Katmandu,
That's really, really where I'm going to,
Oh, if I ever get out of here I'm going to Katmandu.

--Bob Seger

Our two days in Kathmandu have included a visit downtown to the Boudhanath Stupa, meetings with out trek organizer (more about which later) and a couple trips to Thamel for cash money, provisions for the trek, shopping and people watching. Thamel is pretty much as advertised: the tourist quarter, although tourists are only the smallest fraction of people there. The trekking/alpine shops must number in the hundreds, followed by internet cafes, pashmina shops, restaurants, guest-houses, and more. The density is just about elbow to elbow, and the strets are crowded with all manner of transportation except tour buses. We managed to find a general store of sorts and stocked up on gorp, granola bars, ramen, hard candy, coffee, sweetener, and other trek necessities. The taxi ride to and from Thamel covers much of Kat, and there are any number of interesting sights, sounds (mostly horns honking), and smells. We'll be spending three more days in Kat after our trek, and will get to know it better then. For now, we're packing for the trek.

Vicki adds:

October 5 Kathmandu

We leave at 6 am tomorrow to catch the plane to begin our trek to Everest Base Camp. We hired a porter and a guide who we will meet in Lukla when the plane lands. We decided that at this altitude our packs were just too heavy, even though they were only about 33 and 24 lbs respectively. With a porter we can take lots of snacks and extras that will make the trip more pleasant. The cost is very low and we were able to get in touch with a very reliable trekking agent here in Kathmandu through a connection I made with a Seattle high school librarian.

The hotel buffet was wonderful and no monkeys attacked—they waited until this morning to jump at Mark. He was bringing me a muffin after breakfast—he had to give them the food as there were no hotel employees around—with their big monkey sticks. Yesterday and today we went into Thamel, which is the tourist part of Kathmandu. It was a madhouse. Picture a very narrow street completely crowded with pedestrians, beggers, bicycles, motor scooters, pedicabs, cars, trucks, hawkers, touts, store displays. Literally no sidewalks and traffic running over you. Crossing the street was one of the scariest things I've ever done. Anyway, ATMs wouldn't give us enough money so we keep looking for other ones. We have to take enough cash for the entire trek. We did find a little grocery with lots of American food, so we bought snacks for the trek like gorp, candy, teabags, and toilet paper. Supposedly, all that will be available is water and your left hand—we'll see.

The drive to and from town has been quite an eye opener. Buildings here are about 3-6 stories, all made of handmade bricks, some with outer coverings of stucco or cement, some not. The roads are not all paved, even in very populous areas. We followed a river much of the way—not as big as most Montana creeks. Women were doing their wash, little boys were swimming naked, cows roaming in and out and along the road piles of garbage everywhere. There are lots of dogs nosing through the garbage and just running loose on the streets with the cows. Most of the women dress in traditional saris as the culture here is 85% Hindu and 15% Buddhist. Most of the Buddhists live in the mountainous areas rather than in Kathmandu. Kathmandu is over a million—so it is no small town.

We are taking our little computer on the trek so we will be able to write our blog, but I don't know how often we will be able to post. There is Internet available towards the beginning and end of the next 25 days, but in the middle, nothing but satellite phones for emergencies. I really think we are headed to the ends of the earth. Wish us luck. Vicki