Basilique Saint-Denis

We couldn't go to Saint-Denis and not pay our respects at the Cathedral there, Suger's grand-daddy of all the Gothics. It was Pentecost, or Whitsunday, something else about which we didn't give a whit, so while the mass proceeded, we whiled away our time at a cafe in a big square outside the church. Finally, the bells peeled, everybody left...many of them wearing white, we noticed...and we entered the great church. Only the fore and aft parts are from Abbot Suger's time, 12th century, the nave from a whole century later. But whatever the origin, it's hard not to be overwhelmed any time you enter one of these great ancient buildings, especially one of so much historical significance, both architectural and national. Plus there was a surprise at the end. We'd visited before, most thoroughly in 2021 (basilica here; necropolis here), but also in 2014.

Saint-Denis from near the Hotel de Ville; originally
there were two towers, but the north tower was removed
centuries ago because of instability

Note the 21st century buttressing of the west end...more trouble?

But business continues as usual

Nave view

Stained light on the organ

Nave elevation

Where it all began, the chancel at Saint-Denis

South rose window

North; or possibly south

Back outside on the west end, archaeology going
on behind the barricade

In recent years there has been talk among authorities about re-erecting
Saint-Denis' north tower...the archaeology and buttresses are preparatory
to doing just that! Wow!

Saint-Denis Marché

It was our third visit to the now-suburb of Saint-Denis, the first two to see the famous cathedral--the first Gothic--and the royal necropolis there. This third visit was to see the market of Saint-Denis. We'd caught a glimpse in 2021, just as everything was closing, and made a note to come back. It is by far the largest complex of markets we have seen in the greater Paris area, much of it outside, and much of it in one of the largest indoor food markets we have seen anywhere. Quite a spectacle, especially on a weekend morning. The Metro ride was long and crowded and included the stop at the Puces of St. Ouen, so there were many bargain-hunters aboard.

In the large forecourt, mostly clothing and household

The giant food hall; about the size of a city train station

Now on the left side, still more clothing, accessories, household,
crap

Padded girdle department; also bicycle pants?

Unusual underwear department

Vinyl table covers

Now the other long outside corridor

Paper towel department

Now inside the vast food hall, right aisle

Your guess is as good as mine; actually there was quite a bit of
nourriture we did not recognize

Spice store enclosed in plastic wrap; you do transactions through
the black hole; a COVID remnant? theft prevention? preservation of
product?

Among the many seafood stands

Obligatory porky pix

Now in the central aisle; nave?

Among the olive stands

Ever more fish

I should have made a video...they were crawling all over each other

And on the left aisle

Immortality, €3 for 30g

No extra charge for head and neck

Sliced eel

International department; the whole market is pretty international

Veal tongue, anyone?

"Save the liver!" as Julia Child famously said

A whole wall of legumes

And back again outside in the forecourt, en route to the cathedral

Paris By Night Again, 2023

Our downstairs neighbor Rafaelle thoughtfully informed us a few weeks ago that May 27th was her 40th birthday and that there would be a blow-out party that evening, with many guests and music...and that, although we were invited, we might plan on spending the night elsewhere...if we wanted to sleep. Undaunted, we decided to stay out past midnight and then take our chances with earplugs...as campeurs, we've had considerable experience with noise. The music went on till 3, the conversations till 4, but it was OK, and we got to see more of Paris by night.

Roses, as sunset approaches

Looking up river from the Passerelle Leopold-Sedar-Senghor; 
sunset is the hour when the river cruise boats really come out

National Assembly

Sunset through the Grand Palais

Pont Alexandre III

Kid climbing area on the quai

Pop-up bottle shop

An excursion: we had planned on getting closer to the
Eiffel Tower, but at Avenue Rapp I remembered the famous 
portal and facade of 29 Avenue Rapp, one of the few really
great art nouveau monuments we had somehow missed in
all these years; so there's the portal

And the fuller facade; we vowed to come back in
daylight

We had some time to kill before the 11PM Twinkle Show and so
had drinks at a nearby bistro; watching people and watching people
dance on the passing Busdiscotheque

The Twinkle Show begins; we are at the corner of
Avenue Rapp and Rue du General Camou, enjoying
the same view that 29 Avenue Rapp enjoys 

Still photography just can't capture the wonder
of the Twinkle Show

So of course we video'd it, to be posted some day on
my poor neglected YouTube channel...