Monday, September 19, 2022

Pergamon Museum, 2022

September 15 was our big Berlin museums day, knocking off 4 or even 5 (depending on how you individuate museums): the Pergamon, the Neues, the Old National Gallery, the Panorama, and "The World of Heinrich Schliemann" at the James Simon gallery. All on Museums Island. All for 19€ per person, too.

The Pergamon is a large museum, a museum of large format stuff. The German archaeologists removed not just clay pots and tablets and statues and such, but whole temples and other buildings. Just keeping up with the Brits, you might say. The museum is under renovation presently, and its most famous holdings are closed until 2025. Fortunately, we had visited the Pergamon before, in 2012. See my post from then for a look at that for which this big format museum is most famous. We had also visited Pergamum itself, the ancient city in Turkey, and blogged about it too, in 2010. And also Miletus, too, parts of which now reside in Berlin.

The Kaiser and the Sultan of Ottoman Turkey were close personal
buds in the later 19th century, and thus it was open season for
German archaeologists and adventurers throughout Asia Minor; 
also, the Ottoman Empire was the "sick man of Europe" and looking
for some help; compare Britain's relationship with Greece...

The Official Story; "partage"?!

Helpful model of ancient Babylon

Including the Temple of Marduk, thought to have been the 
"Tower of Babel"

Now entering the processional road to the great hall in later
Babylon; just 100m of the 250m collected

Detail

Spare parts; actual crate used for transporting...

Definitely will be on the quiz


Cast of the Code of Hammurabi; source
of all the "thou shalt nots"

Impressive gold work

More monumental stuff

And you thought angels were strictly Christian

"You've come a long way, baby," except in the US, where
Republicans would like to set the clock back a few millennia

The smaller entry gate; the larger one (see model) was too large
to fit

Scale in the throne room


Helpful model of what you've been walking and looking at









































































































































Shazam! You pass through the gate and you're in Roman Miletus;
the signage here helpfully notes that 60% of the facade here is
original, the highest percentage of anything in the museum (!)

Nice mosaic...a door off to the right leads then to the now-closed
hall of Pergamon; see our 2012 post for pix of this

Perhaps the high point of this visit to the Pergamon was in its
nice restaurant, being served by robotic serveuse (go to my
YouTube channel...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlnUKnSBY2Y&ab_channel=MarkSherouse

My north German sushi...raw herring and salad...the waiter asked
whether I understood what I was ordering..."Ach, ja, ja, ich
verstehe..."

Vicki's pizza

Wagner Monument In Tiergarten Park

So no sooner than I had posted about never having seen the Wagner monument in the depths (so I had imagined) of Tiergarten Park than we are riding in a bus right by it, Vicki exhorting me to get off and go see it. So we did. Route #200 from the Kulturforum if you're interested.

Painting of the dedication ceremony, 1890s; as seen last week at
the DHM

And there it is, suitably protected from the elements; also from
vandalism...

Appropriate megamaniacal pose, with
characters from the operas below; here,
Walter von der Vogelweide, from Tannhauser


Tannhauser, with the Pope's staff sprouting leaves,
signifying his redemption

Alberich, stealing the Rhinegold from the Rhinemaiden

Brunnhilde and the dead Siegfried from
Gotterdammerung

Helpful signage; and in English too

A helpful antidote to all this is What's Opera, Doc?, one of the
most honored cartoons ever...


Sunday, September 18, 2022

Gemaldegalerie, 3: The Out-Takes

"Really, Neptune, a conk shell for a condom?!
Not with me you won't!"

Happy Madonna and Bambino

Obviously has not yet gotten the memo about scourging, crucifixion,
etc.

"I drink and I know things; and I dance with dogs"

Yet another reason to prefer video to live poker

"Jesus of Nazareth, pleased to meet you" "Holy Shit! Boy howdy! Really?!
You're shittin' me" "No, I am The One" "Whoa! Let me get down
and grovel...would you like to be baptized?" "What would be the
point? I know Who I am" "Aw, come on man, it's my thing" "Well, if you insist..."


"How 'bout them apples?" or "A Disputation among Church
Doctors concerning Original Sin"

"How 'bout them apples?" or "A Disputation among Putti..."

"Come on, Mom, do I to have to limit your screen time?!"

"Well, Lord, we didn't mean it literally..."



Gemaldegalerie, 2: South of the Alps; Plus Special Bonus Donatello Exhibition

After a modest lunch at the modest Gemaldegalerie cafeteria, we resumed our visit to the galleries, first to see the Donatello exhibition, then briefly the South of the Alps portion. We had seen much of the Donatello at the Bargello in Florence last spring, but missed half of it because a) we were unimpressed with the first half, b) we were tired, and c) there was a long Renaissance staircase to get to the second half, at the Palazzo Strozzi. We were fortunate to run into the Donatello exhibit in Berlin, since this second half was indeed impressive, exhibiting the range, variety, and innovativeness of Donatello's work. 

Helpful model of the Kulturforum area, down by the gift shoppe










Nice entrance













Just a cast, obviously, of Donatello's most famous
David

Bronze crucifix, originally for St. Anthony's, Padua
cathedral there, during his long and productive stay

Padua was also the site of his famous equestrian statue of Gattamelata,
the first life-sized equestrian statue in Europe since the classical times;
this is not it; nor did I find any description

St. John the Baptist, 1442, from the Bargello

The Dudley Madonna, which we saw in Florence, and probably
also in London at the V&A where it lives



































































































Another David, 1404 or so; not the famous one


The exhibition was accompanied by 7 small paintings by Masaccio
(!) originally from the Carmine church in Florence; this one an
Adoration; characteristically Masaccio, IMHO

The Donatello exhibition actually had more visitors than the
museum itself, while we were there

























































Moving right along now, south of the Alps, Giotto's Deposition
of Mary
, 1310



















Ghirlandiao's Jesus and St. John Meeting, 1490s


















Botticelli, Venus, well, you know who...

Botticelli, Mary and Child and Singing Angels, 1477

Botticelli, Mary Enthroned with Child and St. John,
1477

Finally, another beautiful tondo, Rafael, Mary, Child,
St. John, and an Angel, 1505